Chainsaw Sharpener- Electric?
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I have sharpened my own chains with files. I'm thinking about getting an electric sharpener but I know nothing about them. I would be sharpening about 10 chains a year. Yes, I know I can bring them to a hardware store to get them sharpened but I would rather do it myself. What brand would you suggest buying? What price? Any other ins and outs in using one? On average, how many sharpenings can you get out of a chain?
Thanks for your time!
I use the Oregon 12V, but then take them in every 5 or so sharpenings to have them professional done and have the depth gauge properly done.
I use a 12v sharpener and the chains never leave the bar until they are worn out, handy to use in the timber.
my father has one of those electric bench mounted once it works pretty awesome
I've looked at several of the electric sharpeners lately online myself. For years I've had my father sharpen my chains for me as it was something he did well and enjoyed. This year tho, he will only sharpen them once in a while, the rest of the time he makes me do it. At 89 years old, he says he's getting to where he can't see good enough for fine work. Since my parents and my wife and I burn only wood for heat, there is a lot of saw sharpening going on. You know how much wood a couple in their late 80's will burn when they seem to want to keep their house at 90 degrees? Good thing for me, cutting wood is relaxing.
All that leads to this, I have a friend whose hobby (and side job), is rebuilding used saws and reselling them. He sharpens no telling how many in any given year and he is good at it. I emailed him a couple of days ago asking him how he sharpened saws. Here is his answer I received today:
"This is the best guide I've found:
http://www.stihl.com.au/p/media/download/au-en/Sharpening_Saw_Chains.pdf
If it's a Stihl chain there is a guide line built in to the top of the cutter. If I hand file, I follow that angle, file from the inside of the cutter to the outside, and perpendicular to the bar. This is the one time I make the chain bowstring tight so the cutter remains as parallel as possible to the bar; if the cutter wobbles you can't control the angle. I will almost never file without a vise. I welded a vise stand to fit in the receiver hitch of my truck so I can file on site. I set the chain brake, file three or four teeth, release the brake, advance the chain and repeat. After I finish sharpening I release the tension from the chain. If the chain is too tight it will wear the sprocket prematurely.
When I started shooting I was a poor marksman. Every bullet fired improved my ability. At one point (way back in '98) I shot better than every other cop in the state. Same with chain sharpening. I was clueless when I started and butchered many a chain. I'm a little better now.
Also, this is an interesting thread on a site I frequent:
http://opeforum.com/threads/mikes-chainvises.4322/
The site is the Outdoor Power Equipment forum and there is a wealth of information there. Remember, it's the Internet. Many "experts" out there. I have one of Mikes chain vises and like it a lot when I'm getting really precise.
Happy cutting!"
I must admit to butchering many a chain myself......
I have an Oregon bench mounted electric chain sharpener. It cost around $200. It does require removal of the chain from the bar to sharpen. Once set up properly it will sharpen a chain to like new sharpness. I can sharpen a chain 4-6 times before replacing. I used to use a small hand held 12volt sharpener but always had trouble getting the saw to cut straight. Now if a chain gets dull I change to a sharp one and only sharpen at the shop.
If you are having problems with a saw not gutting straight, the chain rakers are usually the problem...
I've used a small Oregon 12V for over 20 years. Depending on what you are cutting, most of the time all you need to do is "clean up" the chain with it maybe once or twice during a day's work. You get pretty good at the angles after some practice, and it's nice that you can use it with your truck battery if you are out and about.
I aways buzz the tops of the rakers with it as well on a regular basis. Normally I'm cutting gnarly old black oak...so a good sharp chain is a must.
Best of Luck, Jeff
you can check some better alternative of outdoor speakers here http://www.gagbin.com/top-10-best-chainsaws/
I need to pick up another saw asap. The local pill heads helped themselves to my MS290. Any recommendations for a guy who cuts probably 2 cords a year? I honestly would like to pick up a used one but would consider new.
Echo CS500P, lightest saw in it's class and one heck of a cutting machine. It has done everything I have needed, I also have A CS600P with a 24" bar for the bigger stuff. they both come with a 5yr warranty.
The 600 is about 3lbs heavier than the 500, if that is not a factor, for the money you can not beat the 600, check out www.arboristsite.com etc..
X2 Greg Simon. The Oregon bench mounted sharpener works great. In the interest of full disclosure, I've never used it personally, but my dad sharpens all mine and they're pretty close to a factory chain. We usually toss the chains after 4-6 sharpenings as well depending on the chain. Like others have mentioned, we have a cabin that is 100% wood heat, so we cut quite a bit more than most people for personal use. I'd say we go through 6-10 cords/winter depending on the usage, which is all pine, so you hardwood folks won't need that much. Realistically we have probably at least 50-60 chains, so when I'm in the field I won't mess around with any sharpening; just put a new one on and sharpen the dull one later (or rather have my dad do it, plus it keeps him safe from "helping" in wood gathering). If you're not going through a bunch of chains, this might not be your best option.
Bowfreak, Sorry to hear about your loss. My older brother has a key to our family garage, so I know the feeling with replacing tools you already own. I run 2 saws for getting wood, the larger is simply for cutting the trunk, the other smaller one I use for cutting limbs and incidental items. If you're only cutting a couple cords our small Huskvarna 346XP would suite your needs just fine. Our larger 562XP will do it much quicker, but costs more and it get's pretty tiresome using it all day (for me), because it's heavier. I've only used Huskvarna, Stihl and shindaiwa saws, so I don't have a lot of different brand experiences, but about 20 years ago I had the biggest POS Stihl saw that I've never used one again, however they're still quite popular, so maybe they've made changes and could be great saws too. All of these were from light commercial uses, to heavy personal uses, so keep that in mind; I never had to clear 100 miles of transmission line right of ways with these saws. I'd be curious what those guys use.
Bowfrek, if you think your man enough, I have a Homelite 750 that need some work to get it going (I have a majority of the parts) I can make a deal on, at 23lbs it offers 6.8 cubic inches (112 cc's) of manliness at your disposal.
Thanks Slade but that is too much saw for me. It takes a man to handle one of those big saws....that is for sure.
Bowfreak, that's probably why it's still waiting to be worked on... ;)
