Other fond memories of that bow--At one end of each of the steel cables, they looped through a plastic timing adjustment disk (I don't think that's the proper name, but will have to do). This disk had 5 or 6 slots molded into it, marked A-E,F. You'd have to relieve the tension on the bowstring and move the looped end of the cable from one slot to another to make the adjustment, perhaps having to make adjustments numerous times at both limbs to get the desired effect. I swore to myself that as soon as I shot a deer with it, I'd buy myself a newer bow. It took me a few seasons, but I finally did it. Good Luck.
Bear whitetail II manualContributors to this thread:
Meat Grinder 25-Mar-09
mark land 26-Mar-09
Does anyone out there would have a manual for a Bear Whitetail II compound bow? I was injured and need to bring the power down on the one I have
wimpy....I don't have a manual or even know what the bow looks like, but if you are referring to lessening the draw weight, can't you simply turn down the limb bolts (i.e., counter clockwise)?
I'm not sure if the Whitetail II has adjustable limb bolts. It's been a while since I held one in my hand, but seems to me some of those early Bears had a cable pulley that rotated to increase or decrease the limb pre-load.
No, That doesn't do much and I though that a longer string may but all that did was to increase the draw length. I draw 28" so that is no good either. I was told tat the way to do it is by changing the wheels and perhaps the cables but in order to find out wich ones a manual would be nice. Bear Archery was purchased by some other company so no help there. I gess I will have to save some money and buy a new bow but not being able to work that is not going to be easy. No Archery pro shops nearby either. Thanks for the reply
Back in the recesses of time I had a Whitetail hunter. I don't know how different the whitetail hunter II is. The whitetail had cables running on little pulleys which were on brackets off the riser. There were three positions for the pulleys. You unhooked the cable off the pulleys and moved the pulley. Moving the pulleys towards you dropped the weight by 5 pounds per hole. Hope this helps you!
If I remember correctly, isn't the WT II a 2 wheel bow, and doesn't have the weight adjustment mechanism that the WT Hunter 6 wheel bow had? It also had fiberglass limbs that had no limb bolts like the Polar II and LTD had. You can play with the cables and string but that isn't going to change the weight much before it becomes unshootable. I doubt you would be able to find different wheels for it. I think you are out of luck with this bow.
From: Meat Grinder
The Whitetail II was my first compound bow. Mine had limb bolts for adjusting the draw weight just like the bows we're used to today.
From: mark land
Yep, the WT II is a split limb, plastic cam bow that actually shoots very well with some speed. Had a buddy that shot one for years and was getting in the 280's with it with normal weight arrows. Backing off the limb bolts will lower draw weight and the plastic disc in the cable yoke system is for timing adjustments to the cams. Those cams used modules to adjust the draw length as well. Good luck!
Ooops, my bad. I was thinking of the Bear Blacktail Hunter. It was basically the 2 wheel version of the Whitetail Hunter 6-wheeler. Not much adjustment possible.
That was my first hunting bow. I bought it new in the mid 80's. Sold the bow after a couple of years. I may have the manuel. I just did some claning out and may have finally ditched it, we'll see.