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Tuning a Hoyt UltraTech

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Messages posted to thread:
MT in MO 15-Jul-11
sticksender 15-Jul-11
Matt 15-Jul-11
Bou'bound 15-Jul-11
MT in MO 15-Jul-11
Matt 15-Jul-11
neverdull 15-Jul-11
Matt 15-Jul-11
midwest 15-Jul-11
MT in MO 15-Jul-11
MT in MO 15-Jul-11
MT in MO 15-Jul-11
midwest 15-Jul-11
MT in MO 15-Jul-11
Jerry Leblanc 15-Jul-11
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From: MT in MO Date: 15-Jul-11
I've got a friend who has a Hoyt UltraTech 1.5 Cam and he came over last night to fling a few arrows. We set up the paper tuner and he was getting some terrible tears which we adjusted for and is now pretty much shooting bullet holes. However, I am not sure we have this thing set up quite right.

When we look at the timing marks, the cable is running right on one of the hash marks as opposed to being centered between the two marks. is this OK?

Also, the nock point is high. Somewhere around 1/8"-1/4" high. I don't have the bow here and didn't measure it. Just noticed that it is high. is this normal for these bows?

In addition to the high nock point, we had to move the rest in pretty tight to the riser. He still has good clearance, but it looked tight to me. So, what is the 'standard' center shot in relation to the riser or burger hole for these Hoyts?

When eyeballing for center shot, do you line up the string to center between the split limbs or do you line it up on the outside of the limb? He's a right hand shooter and is shooting 2317 arrows...

Thanks...

From: sticksender Date: 15-Jul-11
I don't shoot my UltraTecs much anymore but I checked my '05 and the centerline of the rest is 7/8" from the riser surface, and the nock is no more than 1/32 inch high. It was driving FBBH into the same holes as FP the last time I shot it. I never had much luck using paper tears to tune my UltraTecs for proper FBBH flight.

From: Matt Date: 15-Jul-11
IMO the best starting point is to synch the cams, as this might address the nock point issue. There are flats on both cams, and I typically start by getting the cables to bottom on teh flats at the same time and then tune from there. Also check for lean in the top cam, which can be tuned out if he does not have the flaoting yoke.

From: Bou'bound (mobile)Sent from Mobile Phone Date: 15-Jul-11
Bullet holes......you are fine

From: MT in MO Date: 15-Jul-11
sticksender,

Wow...That's quite a bit of difference. He'll be back over in the next few days and I will take those measurements and see where we are.

Matt,

Is the floating yoke you speak about where the yoke is actually separate from the string? That is, it looks like the yoke is a separate string that is 'tied' to the end of the main string...

He showed me two hash marks on the bottom limb and he was told by the dealer that so long as the cable is between those hash marks then the cams are supposed to be tuned. Have you heard of this?

I shoot a single cam as do most of the other guys in our group so this cam and half is a little bit new to us...

I also found the owners manual on the web and downloaded it, but it doesn't seem to have a lot of detail data with regard to tuning...

Thanks

From: Matt Date: 15-Jul-11
The yoke is a component of the bus cable, and is a seperate piece. I personally dfo not like it, and some folks serve it to make it fixed.

From: neverdull Date: 15-Jul-11
they claim that as long as the string is between the marks it should be in time.

From: Matt Date: 15-Jul-11
Timing is different from synchronization, which is what I was referencing above.

From: midwest Date: 15-Jul-11

midwest's embedded Photo

Do what Matt says as well as getting the ATA in spec and the cables should fall within the hash marks when at rest.

I would seriously consider replacing the string and cables with a fixed yoke style for correcting cam lean.

From: MT in MO Date: 15-Jul-11
OK...Thanks guys. I'll discuss all this with the bow owner and we will see what he wants to do next.

Really appreciate the info...Thanks again...

From: MT in MO Date: 15-Jul-11
Oh yeah, I just re-read my post asking Matt about the floating yoke...I meant cable where I typed string, but I understand what you are talking about. He does have a floater...Never seen one before...

I saved that picture that midwest posted so I could blow it up and read it better. I am sure we will look into this when he comes by in the next few days.

midwest, you wouldn't have a link to where that picture came from would you?

Thanks...

From: MT in MO Date: 15-Jul-11
Oh yeah, I just re-read my post asking Matt about the floating yoke...I meant cable where I typed string, but I understand what you are talking about. He does have a floater...Never seen one before...

I saved that picture that midwest posted so I could blow it up and read it better. I am sure we will look into this when he comes by in the next few days.

midwest, you wouldn't have a link to where that picture came from would you?

Thanks...

From: midwest Date: 15-Jul-11

midwest's Supporting Link

I'm not a big AT fan and rarely visit, but there are a handful of sharp individuals over there. This little compilation by Nuts & Bolts is some pretty good info.

From: MT in MO Date: 15-Jul-11
Thanks midwest. The manual at that link looks pretty good. When I first started trying to figure all this tuning stuff out I ordered and read probably 15 different books, but the only manual I use now is Larry Wise's Tuning Your Compound Bow. After briefly browsing the manual at your link, that looks like an updated version of that manual. I downloaded it and saved it.

Have a Great Weekend!!!

From: Jerry Leblanc Date: 15-Jul-11
You may want to look at the arrow spine also. A 2317 is a pretty stiff arrow. You would need either a fairly high draw wt, long arrow shaft or heavy point weight. My ultratec center shot was at 3/4" from the riser. I know that the hoyt manual says that you are ok if your cables pass anywhere between the timing marks.


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Subject: RE: Tuning a Hoyt UltraTech

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