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Got soil test back

Okay got the soil test back something doesn't seem right. If iam reading it right I only need to add lime no fertilizer . This land is in Vinton county and can't believe it that great of dirt. This was actually the first soil test I've had done. Usually I add lime every year about 300 # an acre. About four years ago when I first started putting food plots in down there I put down 24-24-24 this was recommended to me by a friend not saying it was right but the food plots did do great that year. Wanting to put eagle beans in this year so I want the soil to be great so iam not wasting my time

I recommend you add 40-50 units of N per acre (I know legumes make their own N if inoculated, but 40 units of M will help the OM break down and get the beans stared FAST, Plus with 3.7% OM the N will release slowly for years) , get your P to 75 (add 56 units per acre) and your k to 240 (add 92 units per acres. Best to till (disk) in the P and K as it does not move well through the soil. Your PH is fine where it is now for eagle brand soybeans, they tolerate down to 5.5 with no issues.

Mike

SO, recommend add would be 2 bags 24-24-24 (19-19-19 is the highest we have locally) per acre, AND 1 bag 0-0-60 (potash) per acre. Disk in and you will have great soil conditions......If no-till, fertilize first as the no-til planter actually will mix it in some and place it throughout the root zone.

SO, recommend add would be 2 bags 24-24-24 (19-19-19 is the highest we have locally) per acre, AND 1 bag 0-0-60 (potash) per acre. Disk in and you will have great soil conditions......If no-till, fertilize first as the no-til planter actually will mix it in some and place it throughout the root zone.

My questions would be......

are you hoping for maximum forage production? are you trying to set pods with the eagle beans? are you going to foliar apply plant foods at glyphosate application. Is imput cost per acre a consideration? What crop do you plan to plant after the eagle beans? Any change you might double crop it and come back with a winter grain, early to mid fall?

The only time i recommend adding higher nitrogen soil applied with soybeans is when one NOT innoculating the soybeans, where as 40 units of N will give the plant benefits then. I need to watch what i say as i saw where the soil test was conducted and i need to stay unbias here.

I'll give more of an opinion when the above questions are answered...

Thanks Kurchak you the man! So is 24-24-24 (n-k-m)? and when you get pot ash in a bag the ?-?-p mean somthing else

This must of been why my food plot did great about 4 years ago because I put 24-24-24 down when I planted that shot plot from evolved harvests

Nutritionist I want the best beans I can grow. Hopefully I can get them to get pods. So long after the they turn brown they will still provide a food source in late winter. Hopefully I can get this with the eagle beans seems like everyone speaks highly of them. Plus they are RR so I can keep the weed down until they can mature enough. I don't want to say cost is no factor I just don't want my time and money to be a waste. I am planning on putting plot saver up around them until they mature enough to with stand grazing there is only about an acre total that is going to be planted in beans. This is somthing I've learned in the past with deer eating them as soon as they come out of the ground or the weeds end up taking over with my summer plots. This is usually why I stick with plots I can plant in the fall. I don't plan on putting in a double crop. I have some other plots I still want to plant come fall in the general area. Don't know if this changes anything but iam planning on broadcast them on tilled soil then running a calltiepack over it to help them get pushed into the soil. Any input in greatly appreciated.

So if everything goes well and the beans come up and look great when do you suggest I take the plot saver down would like the bucks to benefit from them while there in velvet.

first number is Nitrogen (N) Second number is Phosphorus (P) Third Number is Potassium (K)

For soybeans getting K to 240 is the primary concern (If ph is 5.5 or higher)

I was never a fan of adding N to legumes until a recent episode of Ag PHD where Daryn Hefty made a compelling case for adding 40-50 units of N for maximum yield, especially in soil with significant organic matter. Given we plant so few acres and fertilizer is a tiny portion of our overall costs in this project, I go for the max.

I would not use plotsaver, if you day take it down on or before 1 july. July and August are the antler and fawn growing months, and the reason for planting a forage soybean,. If you are planting soybeans for beans in NOV/DEC you should plant something like this http://www.realworldwildlifeseed.com/soybean

I noticed you wrote 0-0-60 (potash) in an early post so is potash potassium? sorry for the stupid question I just making sure I understand correctly

Try this

http://www.realworldwildlifeseed.com/soybean.html

Yes, old folks called potassium "potash". All four of my grandparents were born 1900 or earlier. My high school ag teacher was born about 1920.

eagle forage soybeans can take a pounding and keep coming back. Just don't plant until mid may unless you are in the deep south

With soybeans, as soon as the leaves start to yellow you can broadcast winter wheat or rye right into the standing beans and in most years get a great "Beans and Greens" winter plot. One wet fall my cousin used an airplane and had a stand you would swear was drilled in conventionally. When it froze he harvested the beans with no impact on the wheat which he harvested the next june. Last fall this failed on my place due to no rain from 1 sep until january. Eagle Brand has a good article describing this this on their website

Thanks Kurchak I checked out that site. I really like that switch grass and the bed in a bag. I just recently went thru and did some hing cutting. Trying to improve the bedding cover I would be curious if I could spread some of that seed around that area since the canopy is open and have it take. Now gettting switch grass to grow in the woods now that would be some awesome cover. What they had to say about the beans was intresting will be interesting to see how my pods look late season.

Two years ago (2012) my Eagle beans and greens worked great, heavy pods all the way to the spring and some left when I did spring tillage. Last day of season (New Years week)I had 19 deer in front of me, and in our county we have 60 plus days of heavy pressure gun season and not that many deer. They were eating the rye green and the bean pods. This past (2013) year we had no acorns so the deer stayed on the beans till they were gone, and the lack of fall rain kept the rye from germinating until this spring. This year I am going to plow down some beans in late august and drill in rye and brassicas to insure some greens work out, AND broadcast some rye into the standing beans when the leaves become yellow. I find the deer will come long distances to get to the Eagle bean leaves and stay on them until they turn yellow. Then they will come back when the temp turns cold post rut. The cover crop rye will keep them there during the rut.

I'll give it a shot. Can't hurt anything with adding anther food source that easy. Just broadcast and hope for rain if no rain at least there would be a good food source come spring when it would get the moisture it needs

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