Mathews Inc.
Got my corn in
Whitetail Deer
Contributors to this thread:
olebuck 22-Apr-14
JusPassin 22-Apr-14
dizzydctr 22-Apr-14
olebuck 22-Apr-14
olebuck 22-Apr-14
IaHawkeye 22-Apr-14
dm/wolfskin 22-Apr-14
olebuck 22-Apr-14
Buckmaster 22-Apr-14
Bowme2 22-Apr-14
Box 22-Apr-14
dm/wolfskin 22-Apr-14
Junior 22-Apr-14
Junior 22-Apr-14
t-roy 22-Apr-14
olebuck 23-Apr-14
Brotsky 23-Apr-14
sitO@play 23-Apr-14
nutritionist 25-Apr-14
nutritionist 25-Apr-14
t-roy 25-Apr-14
nutritionist 25-Apr-14
TurkeyBowMaster 26-Apr-14
TurkeyBowMaster 26-Apr-14
nutritionist 26-Apr-14
dm/wolfskin 28-Apr-14
nutritionist 29-Apr-14
dugks 29-Apr-14
olebuck 30-Apr-14
dm/wolfskin 30-Apr-14
olebuck 30-Apr-14
dm/wolfskin 30-Apr-14
Fuzzy 30-Apr-14
dm/wolfskin 30-Apr-14
TurkeyBowMaster 01-May-14
Freeborn 02-May-14
nutritionist 03-May-14
nutritionist 03-May-14
Freeborn 03-May-14
nutritionist 04-May-14
Fuzzy 05-May-14
nutritionist 05-May-14
olebuck 08-May-14
Fuzzy 08-May-14
Freeborn 10-May-14
From: olebuck
22-Apr-14
planted corn in central MS last Sunday 4/13 - Rained 1" that night

got 12 tons of chicken litter delivered an plowed it in. then planted the 3 acre filed with round up ready corn with my 2 JD 7100 planter -38" row's

think I will need anymore Nitorgen ?

going to plant my other filed this week.

From: JusPassin
22-Apr-14
Olebuck, I think you need to move up here to Iowa where we plant corn for real. We have sweet corn patches bigger than that. :)

From: dizzydctr
22-Apr-14
If it quit raining today it would be another month before I could plant corn on my heavy ground here in west central Alabama. I've already collected over 10 inches of rain in my gauge so far this month. I also love my 4 row 7100 John Deere planter. Mine is set up on 30 inch centers.

From: olebuck
22-Apr-14
Pat,

that the way my planter came. it may actually be 40" rows.

How far apart should I be planting them ?

From: olebuck
22-Apr-14
JusPassin,

your neighbors also have corn fields, and so do their neighbors, and their neighbors, Etc..

won't be another corn field with in 30 miles of these plots - and they are well off the beaten path.

From: IaHawkeye
22-Apr-14
so, seems like your plantings are not for a money crop, a farm feed , but a baiting crop. I didn't say that you shouldn't, if legal, but......?

From: dm/wolfskin
22-Apr-14
More weeds with wide row spacing unless you're on top of thing with ya herbicides. More water loss too. Corn is a poor user of water, takes a lot.

From: olebuck
22-Apr-14
we rarely have a drought here in the south.

also the corn is round up Ready.

all the corn will be left standing for the wildlife - its sole purpose is for wildlife attraction.

From: Buckmaster
22-Apr-14
man a tuff crowd here. olebuck I will be planting my corn tonight, similar size to yours. we have lots of corn around us so im hoping the deer lay off of my smaller fields until the fall when the neighbor fields are harvested. do you think you will have a problem with wildlife pressure since your field will be the only corn in the area?

From: Bowme2
22-Apr-14
Just knew this was gonna be a sitO thread.

From: Box
22-Apr-14
About the chicken litter, I drove past a very big field yesterday with trucks spraying out fecal matter. Just about ran off the road blinded with the smell. Starting wondering how common this practice was and thinking it was cow dropping but maybe chicken poop is a common way to recycle to the max?

Maybe I need to start recycling my dogs messes in my yard? :)

From: dm/wolfskin
22-Apr-14
Not a tuff crowd. Trying to give him some better ideas. I planted a test area last Friday. We use 30 inch rows. Some in South Georgia might use 36 inch. I think some plant cotton at 38 inches. The last time we plant in this spot dang beavers took to harvesting for themselves.

From: Junior
22-Apr-14
If your manure hasn't sit outside long and is pretty fresh, you should be good on N. Unless of course you get a ton of rain that washes your N away. We use 3 tons litter per acre, take a sample when knee high, then apply whatever sample indicates...usually less than 25 lbs N.

From: Junior
22-Apr-14
If your manure hasn't sit outside long and is pretty fresh, you should be good on N. Unless of course you get a ton of rain that washes your N away. We use 3 tons litter per acre, take a sample when knee high, then apply whatever sample indicates...usually less than 25 lbs N.

From: t-roy
22-Apr-14
Lots of old 38'' row planters around here. That used to be the most common spacing years ago. 30'' row spacing is the norm nowadays on corn & beans.

Hopefully I will putting in my corn & beans in the next couple of weeks!

From: olebuck
23-Apr-14
I don't think the deer will mind the 38" row spacing.

my 7100 has "cotton closing wheels" on it. probably was set up to run straight cotton before it got cut down to a 2 row.

chicken Litter here is fairly easy to get and runs about $100-$150 a truck (12tons) and they spread it. not sure how much nitrogen is actually in it, but they say it builds "high organic matter"

as far as the grazing pressure. I will have Clay and iron peas and in my other fields as well as 1 acre of ladino clover against the field edge where the corn is planted to try and keep the deer off the corn - I trap coons when ever legal - but you can never catch enough.

From: Brotsky
23-Apr-14
20" rows are now pretty common in the corn belt....FYI...

From: sitO@play
23-Apr-14
Rick I just got my "locks" put into corn rows...all good ;?)

From: nutritionist
25-Apr-14
Row spacing is the last of one's worries when it comes to planting corn in food plots. As a ruminant nutritionist, let me let you all in on a secret. The new generations of corn with "traits" isn't a smart choice for maximum nutrition for deer or ruminants in general. This is why some of the more savy dairyman and deer managers are going back to convention hybrids. The new generations of corm are designed for maximum bushels per acre and fast drydown. What this has done is create a lower protein corn that is more like a "bullet". What i mean by that is the starch levels are slightly higher but also are less "floury". What that means in nutrition terms is, the corn goes through the deer or ruminants in general. You get less energy, and less protein and minerals as well as the corn is less digestible once it becomes mature.

I recommend to people NO traits or if they insist on roundup ready, to use a non stack variety, containing no bt gene, root worm etc etc. I prefer leafy genetics with softer kernels. They might be lower test weight but they also tend to be higher in sugar. The deer prefer them and they get more use out of that corn consummed.

I also am dabbling with Cannamaize. I have a reason for this....

So, worried about weeds? Lay down a preemerge application of parrallel (dual) and atrazine but if your in an atrazine restricted area, use simizine. There are other options as well, and for many people, i wonder why preemerge isnt done more.

I actually would go wide row corn and spray early with glyphosate if its roundup corn, then broadcast berseem clover, crimson, med red clover or mammoth a couple weeks later. It would fixate nitrogen and set up your plots for next year ala PLOT ROTATION.

From: nutritionist
25-Apr-14
Starting with the larger companies...look at Mycogen and the TMF corns. I'd ask a local dealer if they have some OLDER version or discontinued TMF without the smart stacks and or herculex. WWW.MYCOGEN.COM

http://www.jungseedgenetics.com/Pages/HomePage.aspx They have the HDS corns which tend to have a softer kernel and with leafier genetics. They have some conventionals and less traits.

http://www.legendseeds.net/ legends is a group of farmers who started their own company. They also sell the cannamaize. They have many convention hybrids. Shhhhh, word on the street is they are coming out with a unique corn next year that will be a great deer option. I might happen to know someone who will plant some of this more "floury" corn and will be able to give you all an unbiased opinion.

http://www.wolfrivervalleyseeds.com/seed-catalog/silage-corn/ i have planted theirs as well and i like the 3396 and 2702 varieties.

http://seedcorn.com/95-104-day-hybrids/ masterschoice has a hybrid that should work great, the mc5250 if you can manage a 102 day corn.

Many waxy and high oil corns would be options as they typically dont dry down as fast and have a higher energy content.

From: t-roy
25-Apr-14
Very good information as usual, John! I always learn something from your posts.

However, I am a tightwad & I usually get plenty of food plot corn for free every year from the Co-op or seed corn guys. They always have plot bags from the previous year that they need to get rid of anyway. The germination rate on this corn is usually very close to the previous year's. Plus, I am using an old planter to plant it with so I'm sure my stand isn't as good as it would be with new equipment, but it is purely a hobby. (An expensive one, but still a hobby!)

I used to plant year old beans but not anymore. I was very surprised at how much the germination rate drops on the old beans. Plus beans are much cheaper to buy than corn.

From: nutritionist
25-Apr-14
Hey, there is nothing wrong with being cheap. In fact, many of the old or discontinued seeds are those we want for the deer. If i could only find mycogen tmf106, i'd be a happy man. It is my all time favorite hybrid for deer and lactating dairy cows. I could put it anywhere and it would be a powerhouse.

But so many of these seed companies want to add traits now days. How else can one make more per bag for one's seed?? Corn is developed for the grain markets and not the animal markets. Heck, i'm sure there is some great open pollinated corn out there that the deer would go crazy for that we can find for around $100 a bag or less.

So, anyone out there plan cannamaize before?

26-Apr-14
Probably one more mistake deer farmers make is to apply planting practices similar to whar a row crop farmer would and try to make 100% corn in their plots. If you do that you get only corn and a seasonal crop. I have a one row planter so we can plant as wide as we want and rows come out around 4 feet wide. We don't do roundup and plant running peas when we lay it by. Deer start feeding heavy on the peas, morning glory and an assortment of other weeds my mid to late summer. Some of the weeds are fed on throughout winter and I have seen deer eat them after they become dry sticks. There is probably 4 times the feed in these "corn" patches other than corn.

26-Apr-14
Probably one more mistake deer farmers make is to apply planting practices similar to whar a row crop farmer would and try to make 100% corn in their plots. If you do that you get only corn and a seasonal crop. I have a one row planter so we can plant as wide as we want and rows come out around 4 feet wide. We don't do roundup and plant running peas when we lay it by. Deer start feeding heavy on the peas, morning glory and an assortment of other weeds my mid to late summer. Some of the weeds are fed on throughout winter and I have seen deer eat them after they become dry sticks. There is probably 4 times the feed in these "corn" patches other than corn.

From: nutritionist
26-Apr-14
I echo what turkeybowmaster says. I prefer to not use chemicals and i believe in plot rotation. Leaving strips is a great practice ORRRRRRRR....plant things like lablab or forage soybeans in the same rows as the corn and let them crawl up the corn stalk. I also advocate for planting perennial or annual clover blends in between the rows for economic and agronomic reasons. I believe people spend too much money on food plots and also forget about building up that soil.

Another option is a product i sell tons of thats called plot restore. It is a blend of berseem clover and daikon radish. I love when i get calls in february from clients, saying how many deer are in those plots.

From: dm/wolfskin
28-Apr-14
If you don't control your weeds you wont have any corn worth a dang. Same thing with soybeans, if the weeds out grow the beans the the soybeans will be small and not much foliage or beans.

From: nutritionist
29-Apr-14
A healthy soil grows less weeds.

Time and place for chemicals. Yes, i helped bring generic glyphosate into the US and also had a chemical buying group but there one can really reduce herbicide use if you get your soils right, work the ground properly and time your plantings.

Plus there is some "NATURAL WEED KILLERS" ....which work very well and i discuss when i do my wildlife seminars.

And there is "NATURAL WEED INHIBITORS" which are in some common forages that we plant. Which is some of my research is focusing on....

From: dugks
29-Apr-14
I have a idea, when corn starts to surface go back in with planter between your rows and plant a double crop. If you have sufficient rainfall corn will be ready at two different time,what do you have to lose? It's only a food plot. Twice the crop, double the food, 2x the deer and Turkey feed. I will drill Milo in my corn at same time, when I planted it last year I dropped turnip seed in with my Milo it worked awesome.

From: olebuck
30-Apr-14
dugks

that is a pretty good idea. and you got me to thinking.

what if I spray the post emerge round up when the plants are about 12" tall, then come back with my tractor and planter and plant clay and iron peas between the rows with my planter?

how do you think that would work ?

From: dm/wolfskin
30-Apr-14
Roundup is a contact herbicide so you must get it on the leaves. Your clay and iron peas would not be affected by Roundup. No use to spray roundup if no weeds are present.

From: olebuck
30-Apr-14
i'll do a little playing around this year and see how cow peas grow between the rows. I'm planting my other corn filed Friday or Saturday

we usually don't have to many moisture problems in MS, we usually get regular rains.

From: dm/wolfskin
30-Apr-14
Corn is planted way earlier than soybeans. Soybeans don't germinate in cool temperatures. They just set there and rot. Planting corn late in the spring, usually means it gets less rain fall and more insect damage before the cobb is filled.

From: Fuzzy
30-Apr-14
nutritionist, that's great info... I have been an advocate for >30 years of popcorn (regular old "Jiffypop" as a compontent of foodplots...my theory being that popcorn stalks are shorter, and ears smaller, and being more accessible to wildlife while standing

From: dm/wolfskin
30-Apr-14
We plant mid April for corn and late May to early June for soybeans. This years corn went in on April 18 and over an inch tall now.

01-May-14
We plant the clay peas when we lay the corn by...when it is 3 feet tall. We broadcast the less and nitrate together and plowing throws it close to the rows. By the time the peas make it to the running stage the corn had made. The peas will run out the top of the corn and make less above where the deer can reach.

From: Freeborn
02-May-14
This will be my first year planting corn in Central Minnesota. I have Sandy-Loam soil and will plant 2 acres of corn with a 2 row 71 flexi planter.

When you fertilize are you applying it all at once just before planting or do you split your fertilizer application? I'm thinking of splitting my application because of my sandy soil. If you split your application when or at what stage do you apply your second application of Urea?

From: nutritionist
03-May-14

nutritionist's Link
Popcorn varieties make me cringe since i am a deer nutritionist...

Some of my clients plant the soybeans in rows with the corn and it climbs up the corn stalk. To do this when there is weed pressure, one needs to put down your herbicide preemergence.

Pat's idea is one we are implementing on the farm. We are planting 2 acres of cannamaize and putting eagle beans in one of the hoppers, so there will be 3 rows of corn and one of soy and then 3 corn and 1 soy.

Also the University of Wisconsin is doing some trials using clover as a "living mulch" interseeded with corn.

From: nutritionist
03-May-14
Split applications are a benefit.

http://cornandsoybeandigest.com/fertilizer/nitrogen-application-timing-effect-corn-yield

From: Freeborn
03-May-14
Thanks Nutritionist's for the link, I appreciate it.

I see you recommended overseeding clover into corn as part of preparing for crop rotation. Are you planting corn on corn and does the clover work as the crop rotation?

I plan on rotating my corn with soybeans. I was planning on overseeding my corn with WR and GHFR to help build soil OM and also overseed my soybeans with Medium Red to build nitrogen credits for next years corn. Both the clover and WR would be terminated at the following years planting.

From: nutritionist
04-May-14
In Wisconsin and many areas of the Midwest people flip flop corn and soy and for good reason.

Here is a nice article from MSU.

http://www.covercrops.msu.edu/systems/corn.html

I plant a deercreek seed product called plot restore in early may and then disc it down in late june for my beets and sweets, and then some of it in early august for my fall rye, barley and brassica mixes.

I love having grains like winter oats, winter triticale, winter rye, forage winter wheat or winter barley planted in the fall, and i love putting them where i would like to shoot a mature buck near the woods edges.

I love my berseem clover/radish mix (plot restore) because it fixates a large amount of nitrogen, suppressed weed growth, scavenged nutrients and loosens the soil up.

I also plan on broadcasting some winfred brassica and another new brassica i'm bringing over from New Zealand to experiment with , around august 1, in row.

From: Fuzzy
05-May-14
nutritionist, please elaborate on why popcorn varieties make you cringe? if I've been doing it wrong I'd like to know.. pm if you'd rather, thanks!

From: nutritionist
05-May-14
Because popcorn is like many of the NEW GENERATION "STACKED" varieties that do not break down in the rumen very fast. It is why farmers need to make "pig feed" out of corn to get a semblance of performance out of it. Animals eat to meet their energy requirements and if you want your deer to consume energy, then plant varieties that aren't passed out through their manure but are broken down evenly in the each of the 4 chambers as well as small intestine.

So, say a deer ate 1 pound of popcorn that normally would have 90 MCal of energy per 100 but only is 65 percent digestible invitro. The animal would get less net digestible energy than if you fed or had the deer eat good quality alfalfa, clovers or brassicas. Plus, you would be getting digestible fiber, increased mineral content and protein out of those products.

This is why when someone asks me to formulate a deer feed for them, that i limit the pellet or texturized feed to 15% or so from corn.

I still don't get why people want to feed higher amounts of corn to deer or focus so much energy on planting corn for deer. Note , i believe it is ok planting corn, but the right type of corn that is able to be broken down. I also want, multiple sources of digestible fibers which would actually "HELP CAPTURE" and "Lay a fiber mat down", to allow whatever corn consumed to stay in the system longer, which in turn would have less of that popcorn or new generation corn, going right out the back end.

But, i guess that is actually ok, so that people's turkeys have something to eat as they pick through it.

From: olebuck
08-May-14
yall are a little to technical for me.

I am just planted some corn so I can stick a freaking deer and watch them on my property, and because I love watching the plot grow

I can feed the deer on my place Grade A - Prime - #1 feed and all he is going to is live 5-7 years and die, if he doesn't get ran over or shot as a 2 year old.

I think some of yall feed your deer better than you do yourself.

I guess you can get as technical as you want - but for me regular old corn seems to do the trick.

From: Fuzzy
08-May-14
nutritionist, thanks a lot, that's the info I wanted...

:-)

From: Freeborn
10-May-14
Nutritionist thanks for the links!

My farm is in west central Minnesota and our growing season is relatively short compared to most of the country. Because of this cover crops like clover often do not have allot of time to grow before they are terminated for the following years annual crop. My goal is to build OM and provide nitrogen credits and I plan to seed Medium Red clover into my soybeans in the fall so they get established and provide as much growth/nitrogen the following year. I also plan on seeding a test area in my soybeans in early summer to see if they will survive the shade from the soybeans.

What do you think of my approach, would clover seeded in early summer survive and is there a better way/mix to obtain nitrogen credits?

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