Sharpening Concave Edge of the Simmons
Contributors to this thread:Equipment
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
I'm going to show y'all the steps to getting the Simmons freaky super freaky sharp as soon as I get done with these Quaker Oats TM.
From: Bou'bound
08-Aug-14
thanks for the warning.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
Start off by creating a bevel for trailing edges on rotary wet stone.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
Finish the trailing edge with a file and polish on diamond stone.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
The key to sharpening curved blades of any kind is to use rounded stones, or in this case my favorite is ceramic. If the bevel is already created and fairly sharp cerimic will take it to the next level
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
For the next level I go with a polishing compound rubbed onto a hickory hammer handle. The bevel is held higher than what I did on the ceramic and strikes are medium working to light pressure
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
Lastly I polish on smooth cardboard impregnated with compound and wrapped around pvc pipe. I half the edge to a flatter position for this stropping stage because the cardboard compresses and then raises up to tickle the blade. The results I have achieved by this is that hair pops with the very lightest pressure when blade contacts my arm. Pretty good for a 54 thousands blade. I wouldn't hesitate to hunt elephants with this setup and would expect a complety passif ribs were avoided.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
One addition step is made by creating an inside the vent bevel . Vented heads don't penetrate as well because the vent grabs hair and tissue and like "feather drag" on lead shot, that restricts penetration. With the vents sharpened, that in conjunction with reduced friction because of the vent, than the vented model should out penetrate the non vented. All this combined I believe I am shooting the best head in the world for whatever might occur...bad hits, bone, etc.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
All the bevels created in about an hour counting posting in Bowsite. Considering some of these heads could be still be killing stuff several years from know, it's a small next level investment, but it might give an onsite to why I am *THE next level bowhunter.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
Let me examolorate for novice sharpener s....the strokes on ceramic are made as if you are trying to slice off the ceramic, or toward the ceramic. The strikes on the wood and cardboard are away. All strokes are made so that the micro grooves made in the blade will catch and grab while going into the animal.
From: Nick Muche
08-Aug-14
'Bout time we get a next-level thread--
From: Medicinemann
08-Aug-14
Examolorate?
From: IdyllwildArcher
08-Aug-14
How many grains are you taking off of the vented and unvented blades doing that extra sharpening?
From: Rock
08-Aug-14
Looks like way to much work no precision the angle of the bevel. I can do my Magnus 4 blade heads in under 2 minutes each and they are hair popping/shaving sharp when I am done. The sharpener I use only cost me $25.00
From: GhostBird
08-Aug-14
Looks like a good way to cut your finger off!
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
Rock you can shave with a brick if you mash down hard enough. What I am going for is hair popping without even touching my arm. I'm not quiet there yet but my edge is sharp enough to shave by lightly touching my arm...no extra pressure just contact only. My bevel is a little steep for that and I might not get there without lowering it some. The steeper bevel will retain the edge better so I will be ok if I don't improve anymore. They are right at havalon knife sharp with a much steeper bevel.
From: Seminole
08-Aug-14
This is one of the reasons why I could never reccomend a simmons bh... They are truly a pain to sharpen.
Rock: You are dead on and the Magnus stinger broadhead uses better steel for the blade.
TBM: Lets hope you have those sharks sharpened by opening day. Good luck with that!
From: writer
08-Aug-14
Heck, TBM, your deer are so friggin' small you can about cut them in half with a dull Thunderhead!
From: Ziek
08-Aug-14
There simply are better BHs on the market that aren't such a PIA to sharpen.
From: KS Flatlander
08-Aug-14
TBM....don't know what you call hair poppin sharp but the close ups look about like my garden hoe!
From: Bowmania
08-Aug-14
How much have you spent on tools to sharpen those heads?
I bought the wheels from Jim (Centuar) and gave up. That curved blade is not for me.
Bowmania
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
I really don't know understand why so many call them hard to sharpen. A new one out of the box can be game killing sharp in 30 seconds on a Sharpie. Ceramic crotch sticks will have them super sharp in a minute. The next level sharpening with the hickory hammer handle and compound take a couple minutes and another minute on the cardboard. 3 or 4 minutes max per head. If you are having trouble then you are either using a flat stone which is a mistake...or basically stupid. Anybody with half a brain and a thimble of common sense should see that...OR...you are simply not sharpening the edge...you are holding it too flat and the top if the bevel is riding in the stone. When sharpening anything always go flatter with coarser and raise the angle more when you go fine. 20 degrees with file...22 with smooth stone. The only exception is wham stropping where you are using a flexabke surface like leather then you hold flat and the leather raises up to tickle the endge.
From: bb
08-Aug-14
I have to admit, this is definitely next level thinking. Never thought to create and edge on the back of the Broadhead. Pure genius, If I make a mistake and shoot my arrow backwards...I'm still good.
From: Rock
08-Aug-14
tbm, What about my statement that my heads are Hair popping/shaving sharp, did you not understand.
"They are right at havalon knife sharp with a much steeper bevel."
You are dreaming now you can not get to the same level of sharpnest with a steeper angle. I will gladly put one of the broadhead I have sharpened up against one you have sharpened anyday. There is no comparison to the amount of time you spend sharpening to the amount it takes me and I am sure there is also no comparison in the degree of sharpness.
But I also know there is no sence in challenging you on anything as you are all talk with no way of backing up what you state. It would be just like when you claimed you could outshoot anyone with there own Bow.
From: Bullhound
08-Aug-14
my head hurts from reading this and those do not look sharp at all.
From: TurkeyBowMaster
08-Aug-14
I was only creating the bevels today but previously sharpened one with the methods described and got the exact results described...not quiet havalon sharp but very very close out of a much more durable and thicker blade. All those pictured have not been sharpened because I plan to shoot them some more and the rough edge catches the fibers in the target better. However I did take one straight from the factory and put it right on the strop with some herbs Yellowstone and it produced that knarly sharp edge that cuts flesh better than a smooth hair popping edge. I don't care what asby or anyone else says the rough sharp edge that will shave is more scary than the smooth hair popping edge. Lord willing I will shoot deer with both this season and compare
From: Nick Muche
08-Aug-14
Those heads look finer than a frog hair split four ways, incredible! Very educational thread I may add. Lots of info in your step by step process. I need to might can get me one of those grinder deals to put a good edge on my heads.
Next level.
From: 300 Win Mag
09-Aug-14
Very informative, TBM, but howscome yur englich is so purfect wen yous doin duh informin? (Except for Exlamorate)
From: drycreek
09-Aug-14
I always sharpen my nocks too, just in case !
From: Jack Harris
10-Aug-14
Stropping compound rubbed into leather or cardboard is indeed the key to beyond scary next level sharpness. My VPA's are so sharp all I do is stare at one for 5 seconds before going to the office and my face is as smooth as a baby's a$$
From: Landshark Launcher
10-Aug-14
I'll stick to sharpening them with my Hewlett jewel stick and razor edge system clamp.. Can get one sharp in about 10 minutes.. Only reason to sharpen the back of the blade, would be so that you can cut roots, after it is stuck in the ground after a pass through. :-)
From: welka
12-Aug-14
Way easier and faster to just buy the sharpening kit from them. Less than $50. I think most of the downside of these blades is GONE once you use their sharpener (wasn't available until last couple of years).
From: CurveBow
20-Aug-14
The sharpening of the back edges is circa 1980ish from Roger Rothaar with his Snuffers. I first read about this from him. If an arrow atays in the animal, with the head backing out or moving around, it may cut something more. For the decard plus that I used 2219's with original 245 grain Snuffers, I sharpened the back edges. However, I was *TWO levels lower because I only use a file!
>>>>-------->
From: TurkeyBowMaster
20-Aug-14
A good filed rough edge is pretty wicked on game.
