Identify this grass ?
Whitetail Deer
This grass is in my clover. I sprayed with clethodim about a week and a half ago, but it doesn't seem to be working. I don't know what kind of grass it is, but it is in a creek bottom plot. Thanks.
Yup, sedge. That's why grass killer won't phase it.
I have success with about 2.5 - 3 oz Glyc with 2oz. of Crossbow (I nicknamed ,Killer Cocktail)per gallon , backpack sprayer. I'm pretty sure there is something specific for control.
Thanks guys. After y'all identified it, I googled and found something I'm gonna try. Pretty pricey, but it's eating me up !
THIS is why I love Bowsite ! Thanks again.
I was told spray cut burn !!! burn spray cut !!! cut burn spray ,,, then attack with a ripper then burn some more !!!
After you do the above routine for a few years, make out a letter of capitulation! :)
Pat,
Is the lambsquarters the darker green plant, or the lighter green plant? I am hoping that it is the lighter green plant.....if not, it appears to be 70% of your foodplot!!
Pat, I see alot of pigweed in your first pic.
Yea jmb looks to me like pigweed. Leaves to big for lambs quarter from pic I see Drk creek. It's definitely a sedge. Could be yellow nutsedge. It's a tuber same family as chufa
Sedges are pretty easy to differentiate from grass. The saying is "sedges have edges" if you roll a stem between your fingers grass is round, but sedges usually have triangular or square stems with definate edges. Quick and dirty test...
--Jim
Ordered some basagran tonite. Never heard of it but I read it on the internet, so it's gotta work ! Just ordered 8 oz. Can't hurt to try it. It's supposed to be safe for clover. We will see. Thanks again guys.
Yea the basagran has no effect on legumes. A low rate of roundup would have worked as well. A pint of round up per 25 gallon 4 wheeler sprayer works good. The glyphosate would ding the clover up a little. But clover is really hard to kill. And come out pretty quick
I dont seee any lambsquarter either
Lambsquarter and Pigweed are often confused and used interchangeably, but they are two different plants. In Pat's pic I see a lot of Pigweed (Amaranth), but if you look in the very bottom left corner there MAY be a Common Lambsquarter (Chenopodium album) plant. (note how the leaves are less shiny and the veins less prominent)
If the stems look more red when coming up it is pigweed isn't it? We have a huge amount of pigweed in our area with all the rain this year.
I agree. Lambsquarter in the lower left corner. It has a different shaped leaf and smaller leaves. I actually have deer eat the lambsquarter. In fact it is edible for humans. Pig weed might just be only for pigs.
agreed, the predominant plant it Pat's pic is Amaranth
the grass is Nutsedge, a hydrophyllic species (likes shallow or "perched" water tables), if there's a hardpan or plow pan perching surface water, chisel-plowing may help
MANAGEMENT The best approach for avoiding nutsedge problems is to prevent establishment of the weed in the first place. Once established, nutsedge plants are difficult to control.
Prevent establishment by removing small plants before they develop tubers, eliminating the wet conditions that favor nutsedge growth, using certain fabric mulches in landscape beds, and making sure nutsedge tubers aren’t brought in with topsoil or other materials. In addition to consistently removing small plants, you can reduce nutsedge populations by drying, shading, and using properly timed applications of herbicides.
Cultural Control Removing Plants and Tubers Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. If you can limit production of tubers, you’ll eventually control the nutsedge itself.
To limit tuber production, remove small nutsedge plants before they have 5 to 6 leaves; in summer this is about every 2 to 3 weeks. Up to this stage, the plant hasn’t formed new tubers yet. Removing as much of the plant as possible will force the tuber to produce a new plant, drawing its energy reserves from tuber production to the production of new leaves.
Continually removing shoots eventually depletes the energy reserves in the tuber, because the nutsedge will have to use 60% of its reserves to develop the first plant and 20% for the second. However, mature tubers can resprout more than 3 times. Even though these newer sprouts start out weaker than the previous ones, plants can develop from them and produce new tubers unless you remove them.
The best way to remove small plants is to pull them up by hand or to hand hoe. If you hoe, be sure to dig down at least 8 to 14 inches to remove the entire plant. Using a tiller to destroy mature plants only will spread the infestation, because it will move the tubers around in the soil. However, repeated tillings of small areas before the plants have 6 leaves will reduce populations. If you find nutsedge in small patches in your turf, dig out the patch down to at least 8 inches deep, refill, and then seed or sod the patch.
Drying During the middle of summer, you can control purple nutsedge by cultivating the infested area and then withholding all moisture to allow the sun to dry the tubers. Repeated tilling and drying are required to give good control. This method is effective only in areas where other plants don’t need irrigation. Drying isn’t effective for controlling yellow nutsedge.
Shading Nutsedges don’t grow well in shade, so changing landscape plantings might reduce their growth. For example, a highly infested, annually planted flower bed might be better off if you replant it with a tall, dense ground cover or shrub. Low-growing ground covers won’t shade out nutsedge.
Mulching The commonly used black polyethylene plastic mulches don’t control yellow or purple nutsedge, because the sharp points at the ends of their leaves can penetrate them. Landscape fabrics made from polypropylene polymers are available that effectively suppress nutsedge growth and have the added benefit of being water and air permeable, unlike polyethylene. If the planting permits, mulching with a thick, nonwoven landscape fabric covered with a bark or gravel mulch will suppress nutsedge growth. For complete control, however, you still will need to remove any emerging nutsedge plants.
Chemical Control Few herbicides are effective at controlling nutsedge, either because of a lack of selectivity to other plants or a lack of uptake. For herbicides that are suitable, apply them when they’ll be most effective (Table 1). Most herbicides aren’t effective against tubers.
Table 1. Controlling Nutsedge with Chemicals. (None of these products effectively controls mature plants.) Herbicide Commercial name Apply before plants emerge Apply to young plant Available to home gardener dichlobenil Casoron yes no yes dimethenamid-P Freehand yes no no glyphosate Roundup no yes yes halosulfuron Sedgehammer no yes yes metolachlor Pennant yes no no penoxsulam Green Light Wipe Out Tough Weed Killer for Lawns no yes yes sulfosulfuron Certainty no yes no trifloxysulfuron-sodium Monument no yes no
the seeds of the Amaranth are edible and high in protein (the trendy grain "quinoa" is seeds of a cultivated Amaranth native to Peru) ...I have no idea if deer witll utilize them but songbirds will. We had a lot of spiny amaranth on ther family farm and cattle wouldn't touch it until it was mowed, as soon as it wilts a bit they will scarf it up.
The donkeys would bite the spineless main stems off low to the ground (equines have front teeth top and bottom, cattle, deer, and sheep don't) and then eat the whole plant after the (non woody)spines lost turgor-pressure and were no longer as prickly...
Fuzzy,
There you go again, getting all factual on us. :)
sorry, buddy I'll try to stick with fiction for the rest of the day ;-)
That looks like a hybrid grass. Kentucky Bluegrass and Northern California Sensamia. You can play 18 holes on it and then just get stoned to the bejesus on it after.
Buhunner, where did you say that I can buy that seed ?
Not sure how to clean up lambsquarter in your beets . Down here in the south only beets we see are on the grocery shelves. But seriously you could make a handheld wick bar out of PVC and cotton rope, then fill with round up . You could make one or buy on online
Pat, don't be so sure that that next year your RR beets will be as clean as your corn & beans!
Pigweed, AKA waterhemp, is getting harder & harder to kill here & becoming tolerant to Glyphosate. Don't know if it's an issue there yet, though.
Yes Pat, your last pic is Lambsquarters. You need to find the right market for it and make some money off of it. I hear its popular on the left coast. The eco-wacko crowd eats it in salads and those pukey green smoothies.
Its interesting how everyone has a nemesis in their food plots. Mine is Broadleaf Plantain (Plantago). I hate that stuff.
Pat, that pic is Lambsquarter, makes a good salad green or cooked greens
Spiny pigweed is often found in pastures that have been heavily grazed or maintained with minimum inputs. It is uncommon in healthy, vigorous pastures. Practices that promote strong, healthy pastures (such as correct soil pH, appropriate nutrient inputs, and proper rotational grazing) can suppress spiny pigweed. Many cool-season grasses require medium fertility (or better) for optimum growth
I also have developed an ever increasing yellow nutsedge infestation in my fields. I have 4 fields of about 2 acres each that were beautiful several weeks ago after harrowing,tilling and cultipaking. I anticipate spraying a burndown combination this weekend in preparation of planting rape and clover but feel somewhat stymied by the appearance of large patches of yellow nutsedge. I've been on the internet for days now looking for my best option. I haven't found anything that I am excited about. I believe I will nuke it with 2% glyphosate, 2 1/2 % ammonium sulfate, surfactant and 1 pint per acre of 2,4 D amine(I'm lucky enough to have a lot of sicklepod also). It will be interesting to see what happens. I suspect I will only suppress the nutsedge to some degree and not control it. Maybe with repeated applications through time I can get a handle on it.
"Spiny pigweed is often found in pastures that have been heavily grazed or maintained with minimum inputs. It is uncommon in healthy, vigorous pastures. Practices that promote strong, healthy pastures (such as correct soil pH, appropriate nutrient inputs, and proper rotational grazing) can suppress spiny pigweed. Many cool-season grasses require medium fertility (or better) for optimum growth"
sorry, this post was a cut and paste, unintentional plagiarism, I will find and quote the source here in a bit
this is the source:
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/WS-44-W.pdf
Drycreek I've heard it's selling like wildfire in Colorado.
Here is a nice article that should give people some help when it comes to weeds.
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/crops/news/2014/08/weed-control-window-in-small-grain-stubble
Pat, I had to do that last year, and it ain't fun. Mostly why I went RR this year. Next year gonna plant something that actually makes bean pods !
Pat, it's best that you not let the pigweed go to seed. If you have thick patches you'd be well advised to hit it with Roundup and spot-sed with turnips or rye or something, Amaranth spreads fast when it gets stsrted.
Drycreeks pic is nutsedge.....use basagran. Lefamine 1st pic is either water hemp or pigweed. A lot of waterhemp is roundup resistant. His 2nd pic is Lambsquarter (white on underside of leaves is the distinguisher.)
A lot of pig weed is resistant to Roundup now.
man i am glad i just hunt white oak timber. food plots sound like a pain
