Bowsite.com

Took some breaking-in, but nice now.

Arrows haven't penetrated completely yet.

There's an interesting video on the website demonstrating the quality of their broadhead targets.

I've always had problems with my arrows passing through too far on foam targets (de-flecthing my arrows).

But I had concerns with the block-style targets and being able to get my broadheads back out without taking out chunks of the target.

So for broadheads, I resorted to the old throwback:

Cardboard box, packed loosely with some old jeans, blankets and some random foam. (they key is loosely packed). The premis behind this is that the stuff inside moves with the arrowhead and slows it down.

I took about 20 shots this weekend to confirm my new broadheads are hitting right. I switched up to the toxonic heads (6 curved blades). They make a great hole, made contact with the first pair of jeans that were balled up inside and didn't pass through into the blankets, other pairs of jeans or foam. While that may seem "scary" that a broadhead doesn't blow right through the box and all of it's contents it is what I've seen happen with most other heads.

As an example, my field tips made it through the first pair of jeans and stopped at the next layer (a balled up blanket).

In the photo, these 2 arrows were shot with field tips only. The one went in almost the exact hole as the previous broadhead shot. That's likely why the field point traveled a bit further.

At the end of all of this, I folded up the old blankets and I kept the old jeans (who knows, I may fit into them again someday - and holes will be popular).

It's just pink styrofoam insulation and the top and bottom boards are 2x12's

rhinoblock has been best ive tried...

i used cheeshead mikes version but they stained all my arrows pink color..

Was really happy how well it stopped arrows. But evidently that declines with age/more shots.

I've been using closed cell polyethylene foam planks that I ratchet strap together. Its pretty big too and has been holding up well. I'll switch over to BH in another week or two and I'll shoot 4-5 days a week until the season starts in Oct.

I'm on my 3rd year with it and I've shot it quite a bit. It's getting worn out now with some styro getting blown out on the backside in the center. But as you said, it is easy to take it apart and replace the worn out slabs or even just re-shuffle the slabs to move the top and bottom slabs toward the center.

I got tired of spending $50-$100 every year on a broadhead target that wasn't very big and having it last only 1 year. I also tend to develop some target-panic when I try to fine tune broadhead flight on a small broadhead target at 60 yards. This huge target has really helped me beat my target panic I think because I'm more relaxed shooting at a big target.

As Pyrannah said, the pink insulation will leave a thin pink residue on carbon arrows. I shoot mainly FMJ's and the residue does not stick to the aluminum. The residue scrapes off of the carbon arrows easily enough.

I've been told that the cheap white bead-board insulation works just as well and doesn't leave a residue on arrows. I have a hard time believing that it is as durable. I'm ready to replace some of the slabs in my target so I'll probably replace them with white styro and see how it holds up.

Overall I'm very happy with this target and can't imagine ever buying another expensive commercially made broadhead target.

I've tried several of the commercial ones and I think Rhinhart hold up to BHs the best.

I shot my old Morel's 6-shooter thousands of times with field points and want another, but I don't think they make them anymore.

I had a similar idea with the ratchet straps but instead of running them the long way around like you did I was thinking about running them around the short way where I drew the black lines on my target.

That way I could do away with the threaded rods and shoot at the ends of the target too.

I'm also planning to make a smaller travel version. I was thinking I would compress it somehow and then wrap it with duct tape or Gorilla tape to keep it compressed and save weight.

I just fill it with expandable spray foam. Duct tape a pizza box to the face and I have a new target.

Nice mods...likes it!

Mark

I made some arrow friendly target holders for the foam as well. I just 3D print them as needed.

I use the nails with the plastic washers designed for holding Styrofoam but I hit the nail once in a while.

Here is what I did. 32" length. 16" deep. 2 sheets. Zero waste. That will give you a target 32" wide and 36" tall with 16" depth.

2" inch 250 density foam.

Here's the pattern for cutting 9 pieces out of a 4x8 sheet of foam.