left paper tear no matter what, HELP!
Equipment
I'm shooting a hoyt vector turbo. 72# with 29" draw. arrows are gold tip hunter expedition 300's 100 grain tip cut to 30". I'm trying to paper tune and I get left paper tear no matter how far I move my rest right. I need advice any info is greatly apprieciated.
So your nock is tearing left of the point, and you are moving your rest to the right???
dude, arrow spine way to stiff, try a heavier point, or go get some 340's
Move your rest to the left, please...
Set your rest to 3/4" and shoot again. If it is still left then put 2 twists in the left yolk and take Two out of the right. Continue until lateral tear is essential gone. Your left tear should have fixed blades hitting to the right of field points. Same fix-twist left yolk and equal twists out of right.
72 at 29" on a turbo with 300s is fine. Hard to be too stiff;)
Not spine. Could be a bunch of things, but not spine.
Set the rest back down the middle again and do as x-man said, if it's tearing tail left move the rest left and check it. Moving right will make it worse.
If that fixes it great. If not, my first guess is contact of some kind. Second guess possibly form/grip torque. It could be cam lean as well but you need a press to play with that. If moving the rest left doesn't help get the lipstick out, dab it on the fletching edges and see if you have contact anywhere.
Funny thing, a few years back I had left tear. I tried a bunch of things. Still L tear.. I was shooting a trophy taker rest.. I put a whisker biscuit on and my tear was got. Why?? The arrow was not hitting any part of the rest ether. eD
Agreed with hawk eye, had same problem 3 weeks ago with element, didn't matter what I tried. Did the same as hawk eye stated and perfect. Good luck
Hawkeye is correct. Set Centershot to 3/4 or 13/16 and yoke tune.
long draw length causes left tear also
To the OP, did you ever get this resolved?
no, I'm going to try yoke tuning next, I guess. Is yoke tuning common, I have reservations about changing something from factory. Is yoke tuning actually trying to tune out my grip,anchor,geometry, ect. or is it mechanically tuning the bow?
Yoke tuning will tune the bow and also can allow for imperfections with shooting form. If you are not willing to yoke tune you need to buy a bow with a true binary or an AVS cammed bow from Mathews as every other system on the market has yokes and that is what they are for.
You need to yoke tune. It is the reason why you have a static yoke now on Hoyt hybrid cams. You need to induce lean into the system at brace. Grab your cables and pull them away from the cable guard. Do this while watching the top cam. You will force the cam to lean. You want to mimic the lean in the same direction by twisting one side and untwisting the other. Adding a twist to one side and taking one out of the other will keep your timing relatively the same.
ok. I'm just not familiar with it or ever did it. I shot recurves for the last 20 years
I put two twist in the left yoke and took two out the right. I'm shooting perfect tears in paper at 6 feet. I didn't get a chance to shoot broadheads or at long range yet, thanks a million for the advice
Great news. If your broadheads don't do exactly as you like you can use your yokes to tweak them on in.
Gotta love the static yoke! Especially bows that have 2
