Bowsite.com

Beyond the seed

The average person who calls me with food plot issues typically doesn't take soil samples nor do they practice plot rotation. So many people consider food plot failures, seed related when in reality very few are because of poor quality seed. I am writing a book called "from soil to success." It is where growth and nutrition starts. Here is some words on things that are hugely important to crop growth that many people overlook.

An ideal soil is composed of mineral particles, organic matter, and pore space. One-half the pore space should be filled with water and the other half with air. When pore space shrinks, there is less air and moisture in the soil, a condition that negatively influences seed germination, seedling emergence, root growth, nutrient uptake, and all phases of crop growth and production. Soil texture- Soil’s mineral components are classified by particle size as sand, silt, or clay. Soil “texture” refers to the relative proportions of these particles in a given soil type. Finely textured soils with a higher percentage of silt and clay inherently hold more water than soils with a coarse texture. Also, fine textured soils often are more compact, and movement of water and air is slower. These soils may therefore be more difficult to work and to manage in order to avoid compaction.

Soil structure- Except for sand, the mineral proportion of soil occurs in groups of particles bonded together by organic compounds to form soil aggregates. These give soil its “structure.” Soil with a good structure is loose and friable. Pore space between the aggregates allows for most of the storage and movement of air and water in soil. The air and water occupying these “empty” spaces are both vital. Seeds require oxygen and water to germinate. For healthy plant and root development, roots must have oxygen in order to take up nutrients. Water is an essential component of photosynthesis, the process responsible for building plant structures, and soil nutrients must be in solution before roots can absorb them.

Organic matter It usually makes up less than 10 percent of soil’s solid component, yet because it provides the bonding agents for soil aggregates, organic matter is more important than its low proportion might indicate. Soils with a high organic matter content tend to have larger, stronger, and more stable aggregates that resist compaction. Soils low in organic matter tend to be more susceptible to compaction. Soil organic matter levels usually decrease where low-residue crops, such as soybeans, or corn for silage are grown.

Soil Compaction- Soil compaction affects plant growth in many ways. Air and water movement and storage in the soil are restricted, causing shortages to the plants. Roots do not develop well or penetrate well in compacted soil. Shallow root systems and malformed roots are symptoms of compacted soil. Plants are generally stunted, and moisture and nutrient stresses may occur. Nitrogen and/or potassium deficiency symptoms in plants are common. Crop growth and yield probably will be reduced.

Formation of large soil clods after tillage may indicate compacted soil. Compacted soil is more resistant to tillage forces and after tillage tends to be more cloddy. Also, shallowly compacted soil may form a crust after rainfall or irrigation owing to poor soil structure and reduced infiltration. Besides increasing runoff and erosion, crusting may impede plant emergence and lead to uneven stands. Overworking soil at the surface, typically with a disc, can destroy soil structure and increase crusting. This phenomenon can occur in most soils but is more likely in soils with a high clay content.

Other factors that i'll briefly touch on. Planting depth- Every seed has an effective planting depth. 80-90% of the fields that i walk of people who report crop failure are from seed placed too deep. One of the biggest reasons is improper adjustments on some of these new style drills and planters.

pH- All seeds have a range that they germinate and grow well at. When you have low pH soils, there are very few plants that will tolerate this. You might get some growth but if any plant stressors come into play, your rolling the dice as to achieving success.

Thanks John, always learning.

Good stuff for us deer farmers, thanks!

Great info. When is your book gonna be out?

I'll be offering up an online version late winter and the hard copy will be coming out late winter/early spring before i start doing the seminar tours.

Ok as a sneak preview bit of trivia. I ask this question at every seminar and only 1 person has ever got it right and he turned out to be the head agronomist at a supersize coop.

So, i preach how soil pH is the very important for plant growth. It all starts with the soil. But i am able to grow 5' tall brassicas and super tall egyptian wheat, and high tonnage per acre clovers. My last soil test on my biggest plot was 5.5 pH. How is this possible?

Hint, the answers i've posted a few times about in the past. There is always exceptions to every rule.

Good info. In reference to seed planting depth....I work in the seed industry. I see probably more failed stands of various crops due to incorrect (too deep) planting depth than any other single cause. One reason this is so common is that people often disc or till up an area which obviously is an important step in the preparation of a seed bed. However, if the seed bed is left loose and "fluffy" it is prone to having the seed pounded into the loose soil by heavy rains which often results in the seed being too deep for proper emergence. A good rule of thumb for planting depth is twice the diamater of the seed under the soil. So, for small seeded crops such as clovers, brassicas,alfalfa, etc, a planting depth of 1/4" or less is usually appropriate. If you plant a small seeded crop such as this into a loose fluffy soil, you stand a substantial risk of stand failure due to the seed eventually being too deep under the soil.

Bfulldraw...i'm glad to see you post that as well. I had that exact discussion today with someone. It's almost always planting depth. Here is one thing people overlook. The effective planting depth isn't the same on a side hill as in the valleys. I witnessed that last year. He had decent success on a slope but the more level areas he had very poor growth. When we dug around to find seed, it was placed way too deep. So at times people should keep in mind that even if one has great planes or other fancy drills, they might need to be adjusted in fields themselves based on factors as fulldraw listed above.

Good info guys....keep it coming!

Thanks for posting!

Mark

Here is some info to consider. This is the lbs of N-P-K removed each year by various food plot crops. This should give people an idea on what fertilizers to use if you are not taking a soil sample and just want to use average values. crop nutrient removal each year pounds of N P K Alfalfa 0 13 60 Brassica 100 10 48 Canola 60 1.1 2 Red clover 0 13 60 Cow pea 40 20 24 Trefoil 0 13 60 Buckwheat 50 0 0 Oats 40 10 50 Fall rye/wheat 60 18 80

Here is a link that should really give people food for thought. I preach pH and soil organic matter. Look over the UW-Madison's n-p and k recommendations and note how things change based on fertility and soil organic matter. This is where all my seminars start and some real basic and practical info.

http://www.soils.wisc.edu/extension/pubs/A2809.pdf

pages 43-45 is the nitrogen area pages 57-62 is the phosphorous and potassium areas

As i discuss in my seminars, most people are not properly fertilizing their brassicas and soybeans. As with the origins of many of the products we now use for food plots, i turn to the forefathers and experts in grazing....the new zealanders. They have limited land to work with and they need to maximize every inch that is there to make a living.

So many people say their deer won't eat their brassicas and yet i can get deer to eat brassicas all year...and it's the simplest concepts that i've taken from the grazing gurus. The book i'm writing and the title of my seminars is called "from soil to success" and you need the correct pH, sulfur, boron, organic matter and then look at your current soil levels of p and k and then look at how much is extracted each year by the species that your planting.

Then note, the more tonnage and the yield goal your going for, will affect how much fertilizer you need to put down. An example would be corn. Say your goal is 100 bushel and acre corn verses 150 bushel per acre corn, there is totally different recommendations for those two goals.

Not all brassicas are created equal. Some throw bulbs, and some are mainly above the ground forage. Some grow very fast and others take twice as long to mature. All these things are factors in what i recommend to anyone who asks what does it take to achieve your goal.

Register here to reply to this topic