Calling all BroadHead Sharpeners
General Topic
I know that many of us who have hunted 30 years ago ALWAYS sharpened our own broadheads. It was a necessity. Back then, broadheads were crude and rudimentary when compared to todays newer designs. Though shapes and sizes have staid the same, the quality of materials and workmanship have improved dramatically in broadhead development over the years..
With todays consumer society most people believe the broadheads that come out of the package "sharp enough" but many never take the time to get them "super sharp".
I know many of us have our favorite broadheads but I thought it would be interesting for us to share some of our techniques and methods for getting those broadheads super sharp after we take it out of the package.
I look forward to reading your suggestions.
I only use fixed blades and I suck at sharpening. A knife building friend turned me on to Work Sharp tool and knife sharpener. I bought it for my broad heads but I use for just about everything. No complaints. It does a way better job than I did with stones and files.
I use a KME broadhead sharpener for both my Muzzy Phantoms (COC) and to re-sharpen my Thunderhead blades. Out of the box, the Muzzys are sharp but not near as sharp as I can get them with the KME...i.e. shaving sharp. Being razor blades, the THs are fine brand new.
For Muzzy 3-bade, I find that if I use it right, the old-fashioned truangle does fantastic: Several strokes with solid pressure (over the stones), followed by several with very light pressure (also over the stones). Wrap up with a few strokes over the leather.
By "fantastic" I mean sharp enough to easily cut careless fingers, but not likely shaving sharp. I've never tried to shave hair off its too scary. And I never have penetration problems, ever. (whitetails)
I did modify it however.. I removed the stones and re-set the angle to suit the Muzzy's at about 15 degrees (… or something like that) and arranged them so that the channel between the stones accommodated the broad tip a little better.
I use a couple Japanese wetstones to polish, then strop the 3-bladed heads to achieve a hair-popping edge. Also keep the strop w/compound in camp on hunting trips; checking periodically for touch-up needs.
I learned all I know about sharpening broadheads from the one and only BB on here! Longest bench stones you can find. Extra coarse and extra fine DMT stones are what I use with good success.
Back in the early 80's a friend and I started building Broadhead sharpeners (2 files mounted on a angled block) this allowed us to sharpen a 2 or 4 blade head in under 2 minutes. It would come off the files shaving sharp and the only thing we found to improve the edge/sharpness was to back stroke it on a leather strop. We tried ceramic stones mounted on a angle block but that did not help, crock sticks did work also.
Have found that the X-Block is a pretty good system not quite as good as what I build IMHO but good. It is really good for re-sharpening and touching up heads like Magnus stingers though.
For two blades I use a ceramic triangle sharpener followed by leather stropping with herb's Yellowstone compound.
For three blades, I use Japanese wet stones followed by the strop with the three blade laying flat. I shoot the VPA so they are set to sharpen on a flat surface.
I use the Razor Sharp system. You can google search for Razor Sharp and find the website. It's two sharpening wheels you mount on a bench grinder. One wheel is fine grit silicon carbide. The other is a cardboard polishing wheel. I use this system for my knives and broadheads. I shoot Muzzy Phantoms. I remove the bleeder blade and screw the main blade into a piece of old arrow shaft for a handle. For new broadheads or just touch up work I use the polishing wheel with a bit of rouge. For dull heads, I run each side across the carbide wheel until a burr appears. Then I polish off the burr on the cardboard wheel. I can get my broadheads scary sharp. I'm even able to polish the bleeder blades by holding them in a pair of vice grips and lightly touching them to the wheel. This system is great for broadheads and knives. My relatives and neighbors bring their knives to me to sharpen. If you decide to go this route I recommend practicing on some old broadheads and knives. Once you get the hang of it, then it will become second nature. I can sharpen or touch up a broadhead in just a few minutes. One other thing: Always wear eye protection when using a bench grinder!
The 10" DMT diamond duo-sharp in fine (600) and extra fine (1200) I use it for everything. If I need coarse to shape up an edge I put a sheet of wet-dry sandpaper in 320 grit or so on top of the diamond stone to make sure it's flat.
If I have some time to kill I'll strop with leather and rouge. Many times not. I haven't found much difference on game between scary sharp and really scary sharp. IMO there is a point of diminishing returns for time invested.
The worksharp is a great tool for knives and such, I use it a fair amount, super fast and does a real good job. Even use it to clean up motor shafts and other parts as the belt will follow the shape real well. A little scared to use it on broadheads, if broadhead catches the belt just right things can go sailing....vicegrips or screwed into a short shaft or something might work, just haven't messed with it much on broadheads. Another issue to be careful of is heat buildup in those small thin blades. Concentrated area and no natural heat sink. Go slow.
In the field I always have the folding duo-sharp fine and extra fine in my pack.
Best in the field sharpening tool I have found.
Depending upon whether I am resharpening a 2 blade/4 blade with bleeder. Or my fixed 3 blade (Snuffers)
2/4 blades. KME broadhead sharpener, touch with ceramic crotch sticks, and finish off with leather strop. Stones to use with KME jig. I have 3 diamond "stones". Coarse (Cannot remember diamond count), medium (600) and fine (1000 or 1200.) As mentioned above, longer the better. My fine stone is 10".
Snuffers- For new heads, I start off on 12" mill bastard file. (VPA has a video of this). I find 7 strokes per face x 2 or 3 will remove factory grind. Push head tip to tang on file. (Use a sharpie on blades to verify). Once factory grind is gone and bevel is established, I'll touch on file with lessening pressure and lessening Qty per side. I then touch on medium diamond stone, ceramic and finally leather w/rogue. Final touches on each sharpening mediu are done with light touches. Again, less qty and pressure. If you push too hard, you are removing the rolled edge and/or pushing it to the opposite side of bevel.
A key with any sharpening is COUNT your strokes! Goal is to have bevel even on both sides of edge. Too keep it TBM resistant, keep the number of strokes per side less than 10. (We don't want to see anyone taking off their shoes to count).
Leather block turned my heads from sharp to awesome sharp. Don't know how I dodged one for all of these years. I have stared at the mirror edge when done. I have had to switch arms to test my heads as I had no hair left on my left arm. (See link)
My wife and I both shoot the Montec CS 100's and always 'touch them up' before we mount them on our arrows and take them to the woods.
I (we) use the 2 Sided G5 Sharpening Steel on the 'fine' or 'polish' side and give each side of the blade 5 strokes (pushing away from ferrule to point) and using steady down pressure).
Once finished I run them over a section of leather I've glued to a 6" section of wood and give them 3-5 strokes on each side (drawing from ferrule to tip and toward me).
When I shot thunderheads I used a Tru-Angle Sharpening Stone (3 blade) and Leather Strap with the same process.
I also carry a small flat strop with some Herb's yellowstone in the field for touch up, especially if I am on a long trip.
One thing Jaquomo taught me was to sharpen the trocar tip if you use Muzzy's. All you have to do is lay each side of the trocar tip flat on a stone and pull backwards for a few strokes on each side.
When elk hunting, every inch of penetration you can get is worth its weight in gold!
Keep it coming guys!
For $7 the RADA knife sharpener. Uses titanium wheels. Small, idiot proof, inexpensive. Works on two, four, and some 3 blades. Most traditional heads and many mechanical heads.
For traditional type of three blades (VPAs, etc.) I use the 3 Rivers Archery video method.
But the RADA is the easiest of all for most broadheads. Drag blade through w/moderate pressure a dozen times followed by light pressure a dozen timed or similar. Can follow with leather strop.
I use a file, diamond stone and sometimes a leather strop. I think as an outdoorsman its a great idea to learn how to sharpen broadheads and knives on a plain flat sharpening stone. Just a handy skill to have and one that gets used all the time. Takes practice to keep the angle consistent but it's something you will use the rest of your life.
That said, the priority is going afield with sharp heads and knives. Use what gets you there whether its a Lansky type, roller, bench wheel or dropping them of at your buddies house.
Gatco sharpener for me on my SlickTricks
Woody normally has a lot to add to a sharpening thread, but I have not seen him posting on here recently.
Does anyone know why? Is he OK?
I use a clipper blade sharpener for my Montecs. Simple and works which I like.
I use the metal G5 sharpener for my Montecs. I hit each side 5 - 10 times, depending upon dullness and then hit each one again holding them as lightly as I possibly can and hitting them 5 more strokes per side. The VERY light touch seems to really put the edge on them. I can go from not shaving hair on my arm to shaving sharp with those 5 light strokes.
Lee
On double bevel blades I use a carbide sharpener similar to one TBM shows above and then finish on a two sided strop till shaving sharp. Single bevels I use a KME and finish on the same strop. Bought the strop on fleabay.
I strongly recommend using paper wheels
they can be dangerous - but you just have to be careful. most of the time it only takes a few passes on the buffing wheel to get them freaky sharp.
here are some kitchen knifes I sharpened on paper wheels. sharpened both these knifes in less than 2 min.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEpmlCI2F2U
I can take dull broad head to freaky sharp in less than a min, but you are limited to two blade heads and replacement blades.
olebuck: That is impressive and scary!
I might end up in the ER after using paper wheels...
Very impressed with your video olebuck, but I'll take the RADA for small size, ease of use and low price. Both work on the same principle and I found the RADA much easier to use. Paper will give the same angle but a better final polish, that is true; but the same can be done with the RADA followed by leather strop for final polish. So small and ez to use.
Anyway, I have an paper wheel sharpening system for sale if anyone is interested. I never use it anymore.
I also have various tungsten and ceramic wheel sharpeners and for some reason they don't work nearly as well as the paper wheels or the Rada...
The one argument against all wheel methods is they create a hollow grind that some argue is not as strong as a bevel grind, but personally, I don't think it matters for a one shot situation or even for frequent kitchen use cutlery although there are passionate adherents on both sides of the issue.
I shoot the VPA's and they lay flat on a stone. I have been very happy with Smith's Abrasives stones. I do a series on the medium stone and then a series on the fine stone and they are ready to deflate lungs.
Medium stone to start...hard arkansas to finish...leather strop. The stones and I are both old...lol
I just shoot Slick Tricks. Mike
