VPA Terminators
Equipment
I've made up my mind this year to switch broadheads. I'm going to try the unvented 100 grain terminators. Seems a while back I saw on here a promotion code bowsiters could use when ordering. Anybody remember this? Also I like how easy these are to sharpen. What brand/model sharpeners are u guys using. Thanks for any info
I don't think they are called terminators anymore, they had to drop that from the brand.
You just enter BOWSITE in the promo code and will save a lot on shipping.
I put the link in here for you....
Good luck - very easy to sharpen, go to the main Vantage Point Archery website and there is a good sharpening video...
I strongly recommend getting a good leather strop and herb's Yellowstone stropping compound to finish them off. 3Rivers sells that stuff... You can get a jewelstick from them too..
Once you have all that, you are set for life... No more replacement blades, hinges, etc... Shoot, sharpen, hunt... Simple as that.
Thanks Jack. Had no idea about the name change. What are they called now?
Just "VPA 3 Blade Short non-vented" or "VPA 3-blade Short Vented".
I love the non-vented but shoot both, as in theory the vented would be a tad more forgiving in form and function. I just seem to kill all my deer with the vented because I tend to select that one... And kill and kill again with same head and shaft...
I like the Karma of that same shaft and head over and over again - figure if it killed once, it will kill again (not to mention very economical)
One way I found to sharpen them on the cheap (for a little while anyways) is to use the wet/dry metal sandpaper variety pack. Make sure it goes to 1200 grit. I use a jewel stick then flat diamond 1200 grit then strop. Actually very easy to sharpen them. But the sandpaper works for cheap an if in a fix.
Solid broadhead that's forsure
Solid broadhead that's forsure
There are several videos on youtube of sharening methods. Linked on the VPA website. Coupon code on my rayzor-vpa.com site is bowsite (all lower case. If you are buying multiple packs shoot me an email.
[email protected] or
[email protected].
Don't use any v type sharpening tools on the 3 blades. i'll grab the video link and post it of the method that is pretty close to what I prefer.
I usually recommend a two sided Norton India Bench Stone. Coarse/Fine or Medium fine. You can pick them up on ebay for $20 or so. You can find generic brands too. Keep in mind don't press too hard. Let the stone do the cutting. Use plenty of honing oil and wipe off the dirty oil and add fresh fairly often. Don't load the stones or they'll be useless.
I just used a 2-blade 125 gr. head on a hog hunt and it performed beautifully. A real "zip job" with good blood trail which is not always possible with a hog.
Great heads! You won't be disappointed. I'm a horrible sharpener and was able to get a sharp edge on them with ease using a bench stone.
the VPA 3 blade is one more tuff broadhead. I shoot the 175 grain non vented. best broadhead I have ever shot. Forrest
Best head around. Only one I shoot. From chipmunks to buffalo!
Iv been shooting the Solid 3 blades for years, from fox's to Buffalo. Killed 5 animals in Africa with the same VPA head, just recovered re-sharpened and back in as the first arrow in the quiver, I really wanted to put it through its paces, this head is Not going to fail you when it counts. I use the KME Diamond stones with water and always seal the edges after sharpening with oil or chapstick.
I use diamond stones to sharpen. start with 220 grit with water then 600 grit then 1200 jewel stick. then seal with a permanent sharpie. the chap stick and vaseline will work but it collects dirt. Forrest
I love these heads, but corrosion is my only gripe. Not such an issue when the bow comes in every night, but when you're camping for a week or so and everything gets wet at some point, edge corrosion on the VPA's happens. I didn't take them on my elk hunt last year for that reason alone. For me, there is no romance in stropping each head throughout the week during downtime. I dont believe chap stick or hitting the sharpened edge with a sharpie would be a lasting solution under extended conditions.
I would really like to find a bulletproof method of keeping them from corroding during a hunt. Strongest head I've ever used.
I love the heads as well. I shoot the 125 grain non vented. If you hit a rock with one take a single cut file to it. It will get your edges started again.
The first year I took them out west I got some rust on them camping and hunting in rain for two weeks. Last year I put a little string wax on the edges and had no problems on my two week elk hunt.
I find that in the evening I have plenty of time around the campfire to check my gear. And insuring the BH's are sharp and free of corrosion is one of them. I use a very light coating of Rig to keep mine clean. I might just try the sharpie trick.
Actually a test may be worth trying. Get 6 heads, threat them all differently, put them out in the elements for 2 weeks and then see how they hold up.
Iv never had issues with corrosion, you have to seal the edge, just like any high tool grade steel. I use chapstick like mentioned above just a think film over the edges and they go right into the tightspot quiver. Every season we'r in 95% humidity, coastal flats so the moisture is salty and its every bit of 100'F in the heat of the day, and iv never had a problem.
String wax or Chapstick. Hmm have to try that idea. Thanks guys.
Agreed Joe....Thanks warthog!
I live on the outer banks of N.C. high humidity with salt in the air. when you use a permanent sharpie after you sharpen your broadhead it will not rust. It is the same thing as painting the edge. Forrest
im gonna try the sharpie method, thanks
shot thru a deer and hit a rock. I could see the sparks figured it was toast but still useable after filing the burr off the point. Super strong.
second the sharpie method........works on the eastern shore of md with all it's humidity.........been doing it for years on simmons interceptors and continued when i switched to the vpa..........
There is a product called "EEZOX" that is used for gun care. Wipe on a light coat after sharpining and let it dry before you put them away. Works better then anything else I have ever tried
Great tip Forrest. I use sharpie as a guide to sharpen but never as a protector after I sharpen. Tks
Greg yes I also use the sharpie down all edges to begin with. it will let you know if you have a high or low spot. when I finish I usually put about 3 coats with the sharpie . Forrest
