AAE Max Hunter Vanes
Equipment
I wanted to try something new and the Max Hunter vanes looked promising. Especially with the helical out of an Arizona mini fletch.
But- my vanes just started falling off. I was bummed and started searching what could have gone wrong .
I used loctite super gel in the blue bottle with vinyl wraps.
During my research I found that any aae product that uses max in its name needs to use the max shaft cleaner and the aae max glues.
Apparently there is some sort of activator on the base of the vane that needs the aae max glue to work properly.
I just wish I would have known this before I bought the vanes because I probably would have saved myself the frustration and stuck with blazers.
I don't use AAE glue (Goat Tuff) with my AAE vanes and have not had that problem. I have had some vanes that did not work well with wraps, but I think that is more wrap/glue than vane. Some of the vanes have popped off when I hit rebar in a 3-D target leg, but took a fair bit of the wrap with them. Other than the gaudy graphic on the newer ones, I really like the vanes.
I dont use their glue and never had any problems. I clean the shafts and vane with 91% Alcohol or Acetone. I have used a couple different brands of glue. I usually will put a drop on the leading and trailing edge of the vane after they come out the jig.
I had no problem and i used the same loc tight gel.....
I do glue the leading and trailing edge.
It is weird that some are falling off and others won't pull off with pliers.
Kevin, I really like the size and stiffness of the AAE Max Hunter vanes but had the same problem. Went to Vane Tec 2"HP vanes 4 years ago and have never looked back.....
I used them for about a year when I was told the same thing about the glue. Never had any problems with them staying put with platinum. Actually I have had worse adhesion with the max glue. Not sure why though.
This is more than likely a wrap issue. Not all wraps are created equal. Some only work with certain glues, and some don't react well to cleaners. If you used your fingers to press-seal them onto your arrow shafts, then you likely imbedded skin oils into the wrap that caused adhesion failure.
Your wraps must be cleaned properly prior to glue.
Xman,
I usually buy scrap vinyl from sign shops, but for these arrows I bought my first wraps to get the color I wanted.
How do you clean your wraps? I've never done it before and never had an issue.
I've always hand pressed the wraps.
I like the vanes, the ones that stayed on the shaft shot well.
When I do my wraps, I use a phone book or magazine to get the pressure to make the wraps stick (a mouse pad would work too). I only touch the very corners of the wrap to remove the backing and lay it on the opened page of a phone book, adhesive side up. I then get the shaft close, make sure it is aligned, press down onto the wrap, and roll with some pressure. With that, there is no need to touch the part of the wrap where the fletching is attached. Works perfectly.
The safest cleaner for the wraps is hot water and a fine(white or gray) ScotchBrite pad with Comet or Ajax. It will take some of the gloss off the wraps, but I can guarantee the glue will stick.
Some of the better wraps out there will take a light acetone wipe without melting, but you would need to test on one end first to make sure before wiping the whole wrap. Pure alcohol would be my next option. Less likely to melt the wrap, but also less likely to clean as well.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: This is a little tip that may help with your future fletching. All acid based glues (super, crazy, Loctite, goat tuff, etc.) ,are only good for fletching for about 72 hrs after you open it. Notice the strong fumes of a fresh open tube, this is the active ingredient transferring to the atmosphere, once it is gone it is fine for small projects in the home. fletch only with fresh glue, and you'll be happy with the results.
