Question for Bitzenburger jig users:
Equipment
I use Blazer vans and get as much offset and helical as possible. It requires a good bit of force to get it to wrap around the arrow consistently.
Do you ever notice that when the nock is rotated so the groove is vertical, it's hard to get solid contact with the arrow because it moves? The other two positions are fine. In this picture, you can see the arrow is not centered in the jig. The other two positions are fine.
I'm just curious if others have seen this issue. It was bothering me enough to tinker with it a little bit and design a small fixture to keep it centered no matter what in all positions.
Here's what I came up with on the drawing board:
Have you messed with the Allen screws on the jig to get good contact? It takes a bit of time but each arrow type is unique and requires a bit of tweaking to get it perfect.
Here's the actual part that just came off the printer.
I did tighten them down so there is no slop when it rotates around and snaps solid into each position. That did make a difference.
I just threw this on and it works great.
Zenith archery, bitzenburger nock adapter kit.
Bob beat me to it. The Zenith jig works great, even if you are using G-Nocks.
Never had a problem with shafts being off-centered, perhaps because I shove them down good and snug. (Or perhaps my Carbon Express nocks are more compatible with the Bitz?)
Also, FWIW I snug the (helical) clamps right down to the base of the vanes.
Yes what Bob said.. But what you did my work just fine as long as you stay with the same size shafts.
Ed
Agree YF:
There is a lot of slop in Bitz. Considering it's what, 50-year old technology?
I like you fix and I've had the same issue if I am not careful to push the nock into the center of the Vee receiver.
I made a similar centering notch for the other end of the shaft support, as when my nock was firmly in the Vee, the other end floated and didn't rest in the notch. You may want to try something there too. I just glued the notch to the Bitz.
I also chopped off the long end of the helical clamp and it is MUCH easier to get shorter vanes to wrap around the shaft. I'll try to get a photo to post for you.
Good feedback. I didn't know about the Zenith upgrade. Glad to see others did/do have the same issue. I made two versions for the only two size arrows I have per Teeton's comment. They cost me just a few dollars and a little time.
BTM , same thing I do also .
I went to an Arizona ezy fletch mini for putting on blazers. The guy at my local pro shop recommended it because it puts more pressure against the arrow shaft. I also like it because it is designed to put the helical over the shorter length of the vane. It seems like my bits helical clamps (both right and left) are kind of straight at the ends and apply the helical in the middle, so when I am fletching a blazer its at the rear of the clamp and more straight.
Love my Bitz, but you can't beat the AZ EZ fletch for the little Blazer type vanes.
Check out the Zenith upgrade kit for your Bitz at 60X.
See my link...
BTW I once read that Randy Ulmer modified his Bitz to be more consistent. The particular article I read didn't reference what modification he had done, but it was devoted to the lengths to which he goes to improve consistency/accuracy.
It's easy to me to be biased about the zenith upgrade but it does do a great job at getting rid of the slop and making fletching more consistent
So you have to remove the nock if you want to fletch with the upgrade? How do you insure proper spacing when replacing just one fletch?
Yes the nock needs to be removed with the upgrade. The upgrade wouldn't change how you redo just one fletch. I typically just make the arrow before removing the vane so you can adjust the jig to put the vane back on in the same spot.
