Contributors to this thread:
Wondering everyone's opinion on different broad heads
I like muzzy mx3s. Personal preference. Any quality sharp broadhead will work, if you put it where it is supposed to go. You're probably going to get 100 or so different opinions. They will all kill elk.
I think you will be better off with a fixed blade head.
You could search for broadhead threads here and read for hours. The rage/mechanical threads are worth reading for entertainment value.
Whaaaa?
That's for sure what you'll get......opinions !
I'll go first. Wasp Hammers or G5 Strikers for me. That opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it :)
Sharp ones that hit where you are aiming.
Yup drycreek your right!! lol
Slick Trick or Muzzy!! Tons of good ones out there!!
Zwickey or heavy gage 4 blade muzzys
Muzzy 125s for me.
Let the games begin!
Whatever fixed blad shoots well out of your *tuned* bow.
I prefer VPA's - one tough head.
Quit playin'..........Mike Sohm is da Man....Magnus.
I go back and forth between slick tricks and VPA's. Neither has let me down.
I think I'll design my own 3-D printed broadheads. It might be this 213 grain (including insert), 1.25" cut, .080" thick blades, single bevel, 2 blade design made from one solid piece of 420 stainless steel. I have not finalized the design, I will probably skinny it up to a 1 1/8" cut. I'm thinking the solid blades with rounded corners and sharp trailing edges should make for quiet flight. I may incorporate 1/4" of footing into the broadhead too.
VPA for me.
Best broadhead now that's a loaded question if I ever heard one.
Oh boy! I smell a dead horse.
Exodus are the best ive used
Rage 2 blade. Blood trails like no other
Muzzy or Thunderheads. They had been out for many years and always with great results
Cheap ones made in China...all these mentioned above are too expensive! ;-)
Rage 2 Blade takes the life out of animals faster than anything I have ever seen, and they hit where the pin is regardless of minor flaws in hunting shot scenarios...
I change broadheads like I change my shorts! (grin) Have used many & all performed very well as long as blades were razor sharp & I put them where an animal lives. This year will be the Exodus Qad 100 grain, last year they were true performers & I want to use them again!
Month before season starts I only shoot broadheads so tune & set my one pin to them, it doesn't matter where my field points hit, it's all about the broadhead!
ElkNut1
"Best broadheads- Wondering everyone's opinion on different broad heads"
Broadheads are like women. You have to figure out the one that works best for you/your bow/your quarry.
Super sharp, durable, and hit where you want them to hit.
The rest is up to you.
VPA, been using them several years now. They are easy to sharpen and hold up well. I have killed as many as 7 deer with the same head. Shawn
LOL! Here we go.................. ;-)
Different heads have the design features that accentuate their performance in some areas at the expense of reducing their performance in others.
"Best" for you will be the one among the many honestly well designed and made heads that best suits your needs for hunting the game that you plan to use them on.
Personally, I hunt mostly whitetail deer from stands, with a compound, and I prefer pretty basic products that get the job done reliably.
My pick has been the NAP Thunderheads. I had switched off a few times, not due to any lack of satisfaction with them, but chasing an advantage with another brand that turned out to be imaginary.
The overall design just fits my ideas of the best compromises in meeting the needs of the job in the way that sacrifices the least performance.
I have also shot many other heads over the years that were popular and that had other design features that seemed appealing or interesting, but shooting them during the summer for practice or during some of the broadhead shoots we used to have at local clubs, I usually screened them out and went back to one of me old reliable designs for the fall season.
The hardened steel pyramid tip of the TH's is VERY resistant to curling. I have managed to curl a few of them over the years, but always on rocks, never on bone or wood.
The stainless blades have enough thickness to get the job done on whitetail ribs and shoulders. One particular shot I messed up on, that penetrated the near side of a pelvic girdle through the heaviest portion, clipped the femoral artery, and buried almost to the end of the blades in the off side of the pelvis, without any lasting damage to the head or blades, showed me toughness and penetration that added to my confidence in the heads for anything I was going to be hunting.
I have practiced with them enough through the years, usually at crumpled plastic bags laying on a grassy hillside or at cans in the woods before picking the can up to be carried out, has convinced me that the blades are also quite resistant to being knicked enough to take them out of service.
The fact that they are among the most affordable and easiest to resharpen or reload with fresh blades has also been a consideration.
But that's me and my choice based on my factors of importance. I'm "frugal", have always enjoyed putting an extremely sharp edge on my BH's, and am of the opinion that a three-blade design yields the best compromise between penetration and the production of a reliable bloodtrail with my medium-heavy bows and arrow weights.
They aren't "new and exciting", but are an extremely reliable old favorite that just keeps on getting it done through the decades.
My go-to for most game is still Rocket Steelheads. You pretty much have to be an idiot to pick a bad head these days there really are so many good ones. Arguing about the best head is like arguing about your favorite meal.
If I were shooting a compound I'd use slick tricks! I'll be using grizzly single bevel heads with my recurve this year.
^^^^^my go to are the three blade.
I had problems with Sneakers due to a very small entrance hole. For me Shuttle T and Slick Trick.
Magnus Black Hornets....COC, 1-1/4 cut, fly good and deadly.
40 comments, 30 "best" heads. If that doesn't tell you to keep searching for the magic bullet maybe the other 300 threads with the same subject will...
I have used Swhackers on both elk and deer. I will not use them again on elk, but would deer sized animals.
Life time warranty for quality head gets my vote. Snuffers ss.
Why do we do this to ourselves? At least it's still civil.
VPA, none better. A half dozen will last most hunters a lifetime. Practice, sharpen, kill, sharpen, kill again... repeat.
Whatever Walmart has on sale.
I'm leaning toward picking up some VPAs this year but can anyone give me pros vs cons of 2 & 3 blade broadheads?
I'm leaning toward picking up some VPAs this year but can anyone give me pros vs cons of 2 & 3 blade broadheads?
I've killed elk with Thunderheads, Muzzy, Grim reapers, Shuttle Tlock and Wac ems. The best broadhead is sharp and through both lungs.
Muzzy and Wac ems are my go to's right now.
As far as flight goes, if your bow is set up right, either will do just fine.
As far as penetration goes, as long as they are sharp, either will do just fine.
No real pros and cons but more of a personal choice really. Three blade are usually more available, so I guess that's the only real pro.
I'm in the same boat as you Yooper, I can't quite figure out if they offer a 125gr non-vented 1-1/4" cut. I see nomenclature but no pics nor order info.
Also how are you guys sharpening these?
Do the vented blades make much noise?
Well, we made it almost to 60 posts and while Slick Tricks are mentioned several times, the word "VIPER" never mentioned yet. I am staying with the Viper ST. Have used VPAs and loved them inside 40, but just couldn't get my grouping tight enough at 50 (no doubt operator not BH issues). Also liked and used Shuttle Ts, but got not as easy to sharpen and too much chisel vs Viper. Another head I thought might gain more traction the last few years was the Anarchy head. Not even mentioned until 6 words ago. Might play with the Black Hornet at some point. Getting my popcorn ready as this will go way past 100 as always.
I love shooting these...9 years now I believe
VPA. Sharpen, shoot, rinse and repeat.
Cutthroat Single Bevel Broadheads from rmsgear.com
150 grain Magnus I, 4 blade, I have been shooting these since Magnus first started making them and will shot them until I can not longer pull a bow string back.
Yooper, A doctor once told me that he had sewed up hundreds of wounds, and that it was much easier to stop the bleeding in a straight line cut, such as those made by a two blade broadhead. The wound tends to close on itself and seal up more quickly. He said that a jagged or multiple direction cut, such as made by a three or four blade head bled a lot more and was harder to stop. It made sense to me and I have always stayed away from 2 blades for that reason.
VORTEX! Not sure there was ever a better Broadhead made.
Magnus Black Hornets have my support. Fly great giant holes and a lifetime guarantee.
Ive tried so many broadheads over the years. Magnus broadheads are the best I have ever used! These broadheads are super accurate at even long distances. They fly perfect with my filed points at 80 yards. They are backed by a lifetime warranty! And made right here in the great USA! I have taken several deer, turkey, and hogs with em and haven't had to track very far. They are razor sharp- probably the sharpest broadhead I've ever shot. I shot one through a steel drum a couple weeks ago and the broadhead went clear through and had minimal damage to the head- I was super impressed! Give em a try I think you will be equally impressed!
Been using Magnus for three years now. Stinger and Black Hornet Ser-Razor are my favorite heads.
Magnus stinger buzzcuts are amazing!! With out a doubt my favorite broadhead. They fly great and have ruthless penetration, not to mention the sweet warranty.
The new Muzzy Trocar HB is going to get a try this Sept . Thy Fly Perfect with a 2 5/8 inch Cut Plus a 2 blade Fixed like the Trocar ........
I use the Magnus stinger buzzcut in a 4 blade. Awesome flight at higher speeds. Super sharp right from the get go. Plus you can't beat the warranty that comes along with them
Abowyer and VPAS have proven to be the best for me.
Momentum doesn't mean squat. Energy causes penetration, not momentum. Energy is what moves the arrow and the disipation of that energy is what stops the arrow. Energy =Force x Distance. Penetration = Energy / Resisting Force No such formula exists using Momentun just like no such formula using Dollars because neither have anything to do with penetration.
Man - don't turn this into a debate about KE vs. p again...that horse is so dead and kicked the bones are scattered around.
I agree with ohio, there are alot of 2 bladers out there that fly well (from any well tuned bow).
^^^^ Heard that! Think we posted the same time and your response about KE came through first.
"The more momentum an arrow conserves more penetration will result. By increasing momentum you must increase resisting forces to stop it."
True, but only because KE shares the same components and will increase when momentum increases.
"So when the opposing forces of the target are equal to or greater than your momentum your arrow will stop/ not pass through. 100% of your momentum is consumed."
No such thing as "opposing forces" with momentum. Momentum is not a force. Also no such thing as "opposing forces" with a stationary target. A vector of the target would have to be moving towards the target for there to be an opposing momentum (not force).
There is no formula to calculate distance using momentum for a reason. Don't you think there would be one if it was applicable?
"I'm not interested in distance, I am interested in conserving momentum."
If you are not interested in distance, then you are not interested in penetration. Distance = Penetration
When you conserve momentum you are also conserving KE, again, because they share the same components. However, KE is the only one that counts in penetration.
It matters not how fast or slow you draw the bow because it matters not what the momentum is that you input into the bow. It only matters what the average force and distance (energy) that is applied to the string. Same goes for the target. Only the energy and the resisting force determine penetration.
Yawn....
The last 5 have fallen quite well (when the Indian correctly does his job) to Magnus Stinger 4bl; will be using them again this year. The wife prefers Magnus Buzzcuts.
I win because you are wrong and Newton is right.
Worthless trivia: did you know that Isaac Newton invented The Calculus to describe the phenomena of objects in motion?
KE is a snapshot of Momentum as velocity changes.
Can't beleieve I digressed...
Now back to broadheads.
Magnus or Slick Trick
Both fly like darts and put them down quick.
I use Magnus Stingers. Has anyone tried the Badger single bevel broadheads yet?
Can somebody explain to me, why the manufactures of these broadheads went to a 3 pack and the same price of a 6 pack from years ago. Just wondering.
I was merely asking ohiohunter. I don't really have the inclination to be divisive on this subject. I just wanted to know who has used them.
I guess the return question would be..."What are the advantages of a double bevel broadhead over a single bevel broadhead?" I can't really think of any.
Too simple. Gadgets intrigue men. Mechanics and coolness trump most anything. Sales. If it wasn't for four wheelers we wouldn't have hunting shows.
Like I said, I use stingers because I do believe that bleeders increase blood spillage outside the body. A three blade does the same.
To say that there isn't more resistance with increased blade surface would make me intellectually dishonest.
I think the cooler it is and the more machine technology used, increases sales. The meaner it looks is also a variable.
I take it you haven't used the Badger broadhead?
Consumers like a variety to choose from. That is why there are so many out there.
Some believe that a single bevel gives them an advantage because of a radial cut (like a drill).
"Momentum relates force to time. Kinetic energy relates force to distance. Consider two objects experiencing the same stopping force. An object with twice the momentum requires twice the time to come to a stop. An object with twice the kinetic energy requires twice the distance to come to a stop. A faster but lighter object will slow at a greater rate (larger acceleration), but will have more velocity to ?get rid of?. This results in the same time to stop. Because the lighter object is initially moving faster, it travels further in the first moments. This results in a greater stopping distance. If you want the arrows to take the same amount of time to stop, balance the momentum (mv). If you want the same distance, balance the kinetic energy ( (1/2)mv^2 )."
Dr. Ken Mellendorf - Physics Instructor - Illinois Central College
If it flies in all kinds of situations,buck fever, wind, High speed bows and cross bows and it has a large cutting width or diameter say 2 inches and above on two blades and 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches on three blades and the bodies are tough enough for big game. Then that's the broadhead for ME.
DO OUR SPORT A FAVOR,INTRODUCE SOMEONE TO ARCHERY..NOW!
Ive used a lot of different Broadheads in the last 35 years. I keep coming back to the cut on contact heads time and time again. I believe the inherent design of this style of head out penetrates all others. I have used Magnus heads for years and settled on the Buzzcut as the only one riding in my quiver for anything I hunt. Considering they have made heads since 1984 and these heads have taken every game animal on the North American continent and almost every one in Africa and the big two in the Arctic, this is a strong testament to their ability to cleanly and quickly dispatch game. Any head manufacture staying in this industry for over 30 years is doing something right in my book. Plus they are made 100% entirely in the USA using U.S. materials. Lifetime replacement guarantee if it's ever needed. Magnus flat out makes the best cut on contact head out there, IMO.
If there was a best one there would only be one
I'm not sure the buzz cuts edge would penetrate or even cut blood vessels better than a straight edged Magnus or Steelforce broadhead (SteelForce also has that option on some of their broadheads). Hype or reality?
Also take a good look at the multi component nature of the the Magnus ferrule. I bought a dozen before I was aware of that. The photo above doesn't show this.
I've seen several talks about serrated vs plain edge BH. They usually end no where or w/ the plain edging ahead slightly, pretty much boils down to shoot what you like.
Majority of BH's are just like real estate.. LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION
Viper tricks!!! Shot my bull at 67 yards last year complete pass thru, went 20 yards and was done. Wasn't even a double lung.
Pretty much every broad-head I've ever used has served me well, and there have been many. Hard to find a bad one nowadays. The only poor ones I ever tried were the original Rothaar Snuffers....just way too big and too crudely made to get them to consistently fly well out of a speed bow. But they sure look cool when mounted onto a big 2317 aluminum shaft.
Use anything that doesn't say Muzzy or Thunderhead on the package and you are taking an unnecessary risk.
-Joe
Ive used many over the years. Favorite though for whitetails was the Rocky Mountain Revolution. That thing killed every deer I shot at. More recently slick trick 125 mag. And even more recently slick trick Razor Tricks. Tried a pack last year. Love them. To bad they discontinued them. On a good note, I got about 10 packs of them now to keep me satisfied for a while :)
I like the little 125 Wensel Woodsmans! 125 grain and not vented. They are quiet!
I procured some VPA's, Anarchy, Badger and Ramcat heads this year, will have to flip a coin I guess..
Where is the cheapest place any of you have found to buy 100 grain vpa non vented broadheads
