Nock-right tear, am I torquing??
Equipment
Shot my bow through paper the other day, and got about a 1.25" nock-right tear. I moved my rest quite a bit to the left, with no effect. I purposely flex my bow hand open and relax it before every shot, but could it be this tear is being caused by torquing? I've never had an issue with it previously. I shoot a Hoyt Charger, 28" draw, 55#, LH, Gold Tip 5575, Carter thumb release.
Only other thing I have always noticed with this bow (1 yr old) is the rubber stopper is all roughed up on the left side, like the string is hitting it and sliding off to the left. I can't imaging I am torquing the bow so much that the stopper is that angled when the string hits it, to cause this?
When I shoot the target close, the arrows are noticeably angled in the target. I noticed with two of the deer I shot this year that the arrows didn't penetrate well and seemed to sort of take a left turn when hitting the deer. I wonder if this is the reason.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Could be but I doubt it. I'd replace that string stop cushion though. Then start over on tuning. Confirm draw stop timing & AtoA, set string stop to a slight gap, set nock height to level, put rest back to center-shot (usually about 3/4" on a Hoyt). Then perform standard Hoyt yoke tuning until you have fbbh hitting with fp at 60 yards.
Check for fetching contact. Make sure everything is tight, especially the cable guard bar.
You need to induce cam lean into your bow. Rigid cable guard Hoyts for RH shooters will almost always tear left and a lefty will tear right. You are going to need to add a couple of twists to the right yoke (from the perspective of shooting the bow) and remove equal amounts from the left. It will probably take more than 2 twists. Before you start twisting, set your centershot to 3/4 or 13/16" from the RISER (not the shelf pad if it has one). Continue to monitor draw stop timing during the process and adjust if needed. Removing twists from one side and adding to another will help maintain timing but after a few adjustments you might have to adjust timing.
Based on GT spine chart, arrows are correct. 5575 are now the 400's.
I can do basic stuff, but I have no idea how to yoke tune.
That's really hard to diagnose without being there in person, but the first thing to do is start from scratch and eliminate the obvious causes.
Check the specs, cam synch and timing, centershot, nock height.
Now check for fletch contact, both at the rest, and at the cables(harder to check for).
Once all of that is checked out okay, you can start looking at torque and yoke tuning. Remember...most torque is induced before you even start to draw. The hand placement must not change/move once the force of the draw starts. Any "adjusting" you do at full draw is a no-no. Your hand must be relaxed for the ENTIRETY of the draw sequence. Forcing your hand open, then drawing, then relaxing, is not going to work.
Get yourself some slippery cotton jersey gloves. Put one on your bow hand and see if it helps. If it does, you'll know it's torque. If it does not help, you'll likely have to look into getting help with yoke tuning.
Thanks x-man. I do have a glove I can use. I forgot all about that. I used to make my kids wear it when they first started shooting.
It looks like your string is pounding that stop. Is your string resting against the stop? I usually like to set mine up so there is just the tiniest gap between string and stop at rest, like 1/32", just so I can see air. All bows are different though in regard to that but it can be another thing to look at.
I had a similar problem last summer and after trying everything else, I took it to my buddies at the pro shop who figured out it had a slightly warped cam.
Start with a half twist on the right yoke, and be thankful you have yokes! Or at least one yoke!
If it is 1.25" tear it will take more than a 1/2 a twist. Probably take 2-3 minimum.
Good advise from Bowfreak and X man
