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Pig Weed/Water Hemp control
Whitetail Deer
Contributors to this thread:
Osceola 07-Dec-16
Michael Schwister 07-Dec-16
Habitat1 07-Dec-16
BOHUNTER09 07-Dec-16
Michael Schwister 08-Dec-16
Habitat1 08-Dec-16
t-roy 08-Dec-16
Bow Man 09-Dec-16
Bow Man 09-Dec-16
Osceola 09-Dec-16
Bow Man 09-Dec-16
Mark Watkins 09-Dec-16
Osceola 09-Dec-16
nutritionist 11-Dec-16
PA-R 11-Dec-16
From: Osceola
07-Dec-16
After field prep and fertilizing, I spring drill round-up ready soybeans in several plots that total 8 acres. I spray for weeds after the beans get about 6 inches tall or sooner if weeds are coming on strong. The deer browse the beans so much that they never get more than 10 inches high or achieve a "canopy." As such, there is "exposed" dirt between the rows. In August, I use a Van Brundt drill to "minimum till" into the beans various brassicas. The lack of vegetation does make it easier to over seed the brassica mix

The past two years, water hemp really comes on strong when we get a mid-August rain. The water hemp overtakes the bean/brassica mix in a larger and larger portion of the plots to the point I know consider it a problem.

I was planning on drilling wheat this spring to provide a little nutrition, tilling it under in early/mid June for a green manure, spray 2-4d (when the weeds start to show up and again right before I plant the fall mix) in an attempt to clean up the water hemp. Lastly, I was going to plant my mixture a little later say September 1st.

I don't like giving up a 2 months available food source (June 15th to August 1st and August 15th to September 1st), but unsure what else to do. Is there a better answer out there?

From: Michael Schwister
07-Dec-16
3 pre scenario. You can use any soybeans (like tyrone forage beans (or some other crop like buckwheat) and spray with the 3 pre-emerge herbicides. Sun hump is another option if you are in a hot area, as it should outgrow the weeds problem. You could also plant liberty link ag beans and spray with liberty. I have had superb results in high browse scenarios with Eagle Brand RR beans. Make sure you have base saturation K at 4% or better and the soil properly amended otherwise, the eagles will out run the problem in my experience.

From: Habitat1
07-Dec-16
In Kansas we can't hardly kill pigweed with anything,started with resistant marestail and now pigweed

From: BOHUNTER09
07-Dec-16
Apply Dual herbicide as a pre-emergence and it will hold back the resistant broadleaves until August. It's also available as a generic through Rural King stores as Me-2-Lachlor.

From: Michael Schwister
08-Dec-16
3 pre WILL work, metrobuzine, a yellow, and a PPO

From: Habitat1
08-Dec-16
Wish it was that easy here,I know farmers that spent 30.00 an acre trying to keep it at bay this year.But having all the rain didn't help.they could get decent kills when it was real small

From: t-roy
08-Dec-16
It's probably the biggest weed control issue here in Iowa as well. Lots of guys are going to Liberty Link beans around here.

From: Bow Man
09-Dec-16
I hope that this helps.

http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Books/Managing-Cover-Crops-Profitably-3rd-Edition/Text-Version/Nonlegume-Cover-Crops/Sorghum-Sudangrass#relieve

Plenty of other benefits, biomass, huge system and soil compaction help.

From: Bow Man
09-Dec-16
I hope that this helps.

http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Books/Managing-Cover-Crops-Profitably-3rd-Edition/Text-Version/Nonlegume-Cover-Crops/Sorghum-Sudangrass#relieve

Plenty of other benefits, biomass, huge system and soil compaction help.

From: Osceola
09-Dec-16
Thank you all for your input.

From: Bow Man
09-Dec-16
Meant huge root system.

Whatever you do, I would like to know the results.

Good luck.

From: Mark Watkins
09-Dec-16
Osceola, I'm having some of the same issues here in west central MN...

This year I planted 7 acres of Real World beans (shatter resistant northern variety) where I would normally plant Ag beans. The RR beans grew faster and taller and canopied extremely well you might try them. And as an added benefit the deer preferred them....not by a wide margin, but a noticeable one.

The second thought is to move your planting date of your brassicas back as you noted. If at all possible plant when you have excellent soil moisture and/or right before a rain. I did that as well this year and really made a sizeable difference.

The third thought is to fertilize the daylights (100 lbs of nitrogen/acre and 200 lbs of Triple 19/acre) at the time of planting. If you see any yellow or purple in the leaves then give them another shot of nitrogen right before a rain.

I assume you've done all the soil tests so your PH is good to allow the desirable plants to up take the nutrient and fertilizer at the best rate possible. Ag lime is good, Pel lime is better in my experience.

Let us know what you end up doing and how it works!

Mark

From: Osceola
09-Dec-16
I do soil test every other year. I may "split the baby" and try several things to see what works best.

From: nutritionist
11-Dec-16
Plant liberty link soybeans.

Just like when humans and animals get the same drugs on a regular basis, there becomes drug/chemical resistance. This is why your suppose to plant refuge acres instead of 10% roundup.

Alternative solutions are to plant soybeans and use pursuit on them. This is what we all used before roundup came out.

Another alternative is to use roundup and tank mix pursuit with it. There are products with this blend premixes and 2 products would be extreme and thundermaster.

From: PA-R
11-Dec-16
Osceola, we grow a ..>,lot of soybeans, rice. Michael, for sure is telling you right, 3 pre. Bowman, right on, cover crops help a lot, we plant right into them, 100% no till. Liberty link helps, timing is the key. Good luck. Peter.

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