Long range compound
Equipment
I've come across a few guys who post about shooting upwards of 100yds+, I'm curious how do you have room for a pin at that range? I've only gotten to about 70-80yds and run out of travel or my sight is getting dangerously close to my arrow. I'm halfway convinced its all about head position, but not certain I could get comfortable in any other position. What say you long rangers?
Sliders make it easy. I would NEVER shoot at an animal from 100yds, unless it was already hit, however I practice out to that range at times. It certainly will expose any shooting/ form flaws you may need to work on.
Makes 40yds seem like slam dunk.
Well just like the long range rifle guys you need a custom platform like this one- (don't try this at home!)
The bowhunter that developed this long range shooting platform obviously understands the word custom in every way...
You don't need a slider, or even a fancy setup. These guys [pictured] have been known to burn a few thatched huts at long range....and they do about as well as the guys I've seen with compounds taking those shots at game over 100yds away.....
My slider will allow me to shoot 110 without issue. I've never tried anything further than that, mainly because the range I shoot at doesn't have room. Long range archery is fun as hell!
My setup is similar to otcWill. the furthest I've shot is about 120 yards with my Bowtech RPM 360, but I only have about a 28" draw, shoot around 65 lbs (never actually checked this, but it's a 60-70 lb bow and is backed out quite a bit) and shoot a 500+ gr arrow. If your draw is longer, higher poundage and a lighter arrow I've seen guys who were pretty impressive at 150 yds. I'm not that great at it, at 100 yds I can probably hit a small portable target 6-7 times out of 10 shots and probably keep an 16" diameter group. I just think it's fun to shoot long ball, I'd never consider a shot that far myself on an animal (50-60 is probably my max). I have the MBG Ascent 3 pin slider. Where I'm at in Utah it's hard to find places to shoot that far that won't completely destroy your arrows if you miss, so I don't get to practice at that range very often.
I have a dead nuts slider but like I said I can only get so far before I feel dangerously close to my arrow. I guess I'm asking those who hit 100 and beyond, do you have a noticeably low anchor point? Or maybe T handle release helps?
I just flat out run out of room.
When I set my peep, I draw with my eyes closed, open them and put the peep right where I'm looking, so I'd say no, I don't set mine low, but I have seen a few setups that people did put the peep a little low for the exact reason you mention. Maybe rearranging how you set the pins up within your rings would help with some of that too. I don't think your release matters all that much unless you can get an extra 1/2" or so draw going to a thumb release, but I don't think it would get you much. If you shoot a regular release just fine, I'd stick with that.
Where do you anchor ohio?
Lower anchor point is a big help. The lower the anchor point the higher the pins are,, giving more room for pins down below.
Do you have to anchor at your jaw?
It's all about peep height.
Having sat at Redding Bigfoot on Saturday for almost an hour, I'm confident saying that 99% of the people with a bow in their hands have no business shooting at anything 100 yards away.
I just have to work on my range estimation a little, but that's what happens when you normally do all of your shooting at 50 feet....
I've got a very small yard ;)
But after hitting to the left for too many shots in a row (red line), I tweaked my anchor point so I was looking "through" the string more and that brought the next 5 back on line. I think I wasn't canting quite enough due to the range, so everything improved when I just straightened everything up. My kid was pretty impressed when I brushed the golf ball.... I was just happy that the 5 grouped into about 6"-8" wide, but I've gotta work on my elevation yet...
But what whuzzup widdat flyer to the right?
Makes me wonder what I could do with a peep served into the string, but they just don't look right on a longbow....
Shot last summer at ranges up to 120 yards and call me crazy, but I use a 7 pin sight with the smaller pins and have been pretty surprised how well the setup shoots with a Mathews No Cam. I end up hitting a paper plate at 100 yards most of the time, pretty happy so far.
I use a spot Hogg slider. I can shoot to 130 with it. Shooting long range makes the 30...40 yard shots on animals easier for me
Gf, you shooting pins on trad? Or just getting behind the arrow more?
Without drawing my bow at the moment I think my knuckles end up close to my earlobe. I suppose if I anchored closer to my jawline I could extend my distance. I'd imagine with a thumb release I'd naturally have a lower anchor. Anyone have a thumb release suggestion? Or one for sale, this is pure experimental so the less expensive the better.
For those crying about shooting game long range, nothing about this post is about bow hunting at 100yds+ so no need to express your thoughts.
OH, I was just about to express my thoughts but then remembered that it's truly "traditional" to shoot at animals at ridiculously-long distances like the revered pioneers of modern bowhunting did. With selfbows and wood arrows. And no sights. And hit them somewhere occasionally if they weren't running too fast.
;-)
So what you're really saying is in order to do it proficiently I need trad gear or a self bow..... how about a self compound? I'd be unstoppable.
Lately I've been trying not to shoot at stuff I can barely see........ =D
I've tried forty at the practice bales,but thirty is my max.eyes ain't what they used to be.
Try changing you nocking point. That's what the "string walker" do with trad bows.
TMBB
Have a competent shooter/coach look at your form, anchor. When I look at competition archers, especially those shooting 90m they all anchor around jaw line.
At least take a picture of yourself at full draw and post it up here. Then you can get better critique on it
This thread took me back to my early days and the local ranges shooting NFAA outdoors. Those long target recurves put some arch in our archery, even with the lightest little "soda straw" aluminums, when we stepped up the 80-yard target.
The serious shooters were anchoring under the chin, usually, and still often needed a prism pin for the 80, that allowed the sight to be used even when the tip of the arrow was above the true line of sight from the eye to the target. On a calm day, most of our good local shooters were grouping them in a pie plate at eighty, shooting target recurves and finger tabs.
stack your pins and add a couple yards, works perfect
Hold your bow upside down so the pins are plenty low ;o)
One of my friends played around enough to figure out that if he held the bottom of his sight guard on the target it was dialed for 100-yards. You may be able to use something besides the pin itself?
I think the key is your anchor point.
I shot a Mathews MQ 1 for 18 years and I always anchored with a knuckle behind my ear and a feather in the corner of my mouth as a kisser. It was a high anchor point and my sight housing was as low as it could go on the bracket and I couldn't get much more than 60 yards with my bottom pin.
Last year I bought a Mathews Halon and I have it maxed out at about 74 pounds. I shoot 420 grain FMJ's and I have a CBE Tek Hybrid which is a 5-pin sight that is also a slider.
When I started shooting this bow I decided to change my anchor point to get more range out of my sight. I lowered my anchor down to my jaw line and I touch my thumb very close to my Adams apple when I'm anchored. I now have my sight housing positioned much higher on the bracket with plenty of room for a 60 yard pin and so far I have shot out to 100 yards using the slider feature with room to go to at least 120 yards before the bottom of the housing gets close to the arrow. I've shot 8" groups at 100 yards.
Mike, by any chance w/ the lower anchor did you squeeze out a little extra draw length? Seems the lower anchor will move my face and nose away from the string, kisser, and peep.
Simple. As said, move peep up the string. 1/2" of movement makes a big difference.
Same here. I'm also limited by the size of my Rhinehart 18:1. At 75-80 yards I rarely miss and only break/lose a couple arrows a season. Farther than that I would need a haybale not to be going broke losing arrows right and left.
Theoretically, just working it out quick in my brain, increased distance between your arrow and your eyes, whether achieved by anchor point or anatomy, would increase the clearance of the sight allowing for longer shots.
The reason I recommend long range practice, as others have said, is that practicing 80 yard shots make 40 seem like a walk in the park.
Many of our summer archery nights degenerate into gambling on closest to the center for a buck at 100 yards. In my opinion regularly shooting at stupid long ranges make accurate shooting under 40 yards seem easy.
Yes, I anchor at the side and just under my jaw bone.. Kinda like if I put my finger on the out side corner of my eye and came straight down to the side and just under the jaw bone. And I agree that shooting longer range helps with the closer shooting. Well it sure dose for me anyway.. Ed
"Hold your bow upside down so the pins are plenty low ;o)"
Smarba, I tried that but Wadell tried to sue me for copyright infringement.
Slider with your lowest and smallest pin right on whatever extended distance you're shooting. Makes a BIG difference. Agree that if your form is shaky, or your arm is, it ain't gonna happen (at a lot closer range than 100+)
Ohio,
Depending on where you are anchoring now, lowering your anchor point could lengthen your draw some.
I actually shortened my draw length when I lowered my anchor point. When I was anchoring higher it allowed me to draw farther back, sort of past my head and my string came past the side of my nose. My draw probably was a little too long.
Now that I'm anchored on my jaw line with a shorter draw length the string comes more straight at my face and I touch the tip of my nose to the string rather than drawing along side my face. I've always shot pretty well but changing my anchor and shortening my draw length has made me a better shooter and less prone to flinching or target panic.
I can get a 100 out of my rig but anything further than that and my broadhead will hit my site ring (which means my fletching would also). I have a lot of room to move my pins lower in the housing but I want my slider pin centered right in the middle of my housing. I feel it gives me better accuracy at long ranges. I can keep my shots in the yellow on an Olympic type target face at 100 with an occasional flier if my form starts to break down. You guys go shoot T.A.C. or a few other shoots and you better be on your 100 yard game:)
Jaquamo I think your referring to what was lovingly called the (Hail Mary). It was discussed in low voices,
,while sitting around a campfire sharping broadheads and straightening up those pesky cedar arrows. All kidding aside for some reason I do want a Black Gold 3 pin slider. On my dead eye I could shoot out to 110 and got good at it. In the infancy of my bow hunting please read that as young dumb and lucky I pin wheeled a cow at 103 and had that bow shooting out to 125.
my question is how much space does a pin cover at 100 yard? I'm serious - if I put a golf ball at a 100 yards can they hit it ? a baseball? a softball ?
Hitting the middle of a target is one thing ..... I'm guessing a normal pin covers 6" circle of space at least maybe more
that's "accuracy" ???
3d peep site...two peeps in one...you also use two d loops...bottom loop you use bottom peep..top you use top peep....this set up didn't last long though! We found no benefit shooting past 70 to shape your form ....so slider for me now with one peep and one loop!
OH Hunter - that was my #55 RER Vortex LB hucking 28" 2016s (and one woodie) from 65 out.
I tried some from 80, as well, but - without knowing the correct hold-over - I sent too many over the top of the backstop and into the rocks.
I'm gonna work on that, though. If only for Strutting Rights - wait, did I say that out loud?? - if only for FORM WORK, so I can intimidate all the pin-shooters...
One day, I hope to become the Single-String Archery equivalent of the Old Man With a Rusty Gun.
Practice makes near perfect. Your groups already look better than some CB I've seen.
I'm gonna work on lowering my anchor and see if I can find any comfort in doing so.
Just played around w/ lowering my anchor and it makes a world of difference, you're right Mike, it certainly helps me hold my pins tighter on the target. Analyzing high vs low anchor, when you/I have a high anchor I have to raise my shoulder higher thus fighting gravity more creating a less stable position. After I lowered my anchor my shoulder feels so much more relaxed and like you said lets me get behind my peep without cranking my neck. This is one aspect of target panic I've never heard anyone mention.
Adjusting anchor just to shoot farther for practice doesn't make sense to me, unless it provides a more natural, stable, and repeatable anchor than you're using now. With a thumb release, I lock my first two knuckles around the corner of my jaw. It's very solid, natural and repeatable. With my set up (I shoot a BG Ascent 4 pin slider) the 50 yard pin is pretty much bottomed out and I can only lower the sight for 80 yards before I start to worry about arrow clearance. You guys that are lowering your anchor to shoot farther, should make sure you also check which pin to use at close range. You're parallax gets greater the lower your anchor causing close shots to hit much lower. Maybe why so many turkeys are lost.
ohio,
I'm glad it's working for you. I also feel much more stable and relaxed now that I lowered my anchor point.
Ziek,
I didn't lower my anchor point just to shoot longer distances. My anchor point was clearly too high in the past and some of the proof of that was that my sight ring was mounted as low as possible on the sight bracket and in fact I would have liked to mount it lower but it wasn't possible.
my question is how much space does a pin cover at 100 yard?
Not much when you are using a .10 pin. In all honesty I could hit a softball at 100. I'm not shooting animals at 100 either. I know guys that HONESTLY can't hit a softball 50% of the time at 20 that shoot at animals at double that. Not sure what your point is here?
This is a 90 yard group with my Halon.
My 50 and 60 yard pins are .010 and I use my 60 yard pin as my slider pin. The pin is small enough that it doesn't totally cover the large black spots on my target.
Here is a comparison of the sights on my MQ1 (left) and Halon (right) after lowering my anchor point when I got the Halon. The sight housing is very low on the bracket on the MQ1 and it's much higher on the Halon.
Here is a comparison of the sights on my MQ1 (left) and Halon (right) after lowering my anchor point when I got the Halon. The sight housing is very low on the bracket on the MQ1 and it's much higher on the Halon.
Here's another view comparing the two sights after lowering my anchor point.
Here's another view comparing the two sights after lowering my anchor point.
This photo shows that the peep is about 1 3/4" higher on the Halon (left) after lowering my anchor point.
This photo shows that the peep is about 1 3/4" higher on the Halon (left) after lowering my anchor point.
This photo shows the difference in the pin spacing on the 2 bows. The pins on both sights are 20-60, both bows are 70# bows maxed out with FMJ 400's. MQ1 29" draw and Halon 28.5" draw.
This photo shows the difference in the pin spacing on the 2 bows. The pins on both sights are 20-60, both bows are 70# bows maxed out with FMJ 400's. MQ1 29" draw and Halon 28.5" draw.
Very Impressive shooting Mike!
As some have said its about peep height. I have a bow set up for archery golf with 3 peeps. The top one allows me to directly shoot at a target at over 300 yds using a 6 power lense. However losing a direct jaw anchor on that peep does sacrifice some consistency.
I shoot a spot Hogg sight that dials. 4 pin 30,40,50,60. I use my bottom pin as my dial.
I find long range shooting fun and challenging.
Here is a 108 yard group! A guy gets lucky from time to time! Ha
One thing about pin size.....you don't need to have tiny pins to shoot long distances. I shoot much better with .019 pins at long distance. The fact that the pin covers much of what I am shooting at is better for me. Just like some indoor shooters cover the X ring with their pins. They can't see the X but they can hit the center of it still. The center of the target is the center regardless of size and your brain can amazingly aim at things that you can't see perfectly.
That must be why I shoot just as well with my eyes closed! :-)
No problem for me ! When I want to shoot long range, I just use my 30 yard pin.........
Damn good shooting Justin! I'd be afraid to shoot at a target that small at 108 yards...
"The pin is small enough that it doesn't totally cover the large black spots on my target."
right
so you're not shooting at a spot - you're shooting at a 6" area
stealthy, if you'd worry more about yourself rather than everyone else, maybe you wouldn't be so miserable.
That's impressive Ermine!!! I'd be moderately pleased with that group.. out of a varmint rifle!!
Kinda hard to see, so here's a close up.
Kinda hard to see, so here's a close up.
Pin size doesn't matter if you don't/can't put your pin on the target at long range. And groups don't matter when you're hunting. This is a one shot (first and only shot - you don't think I'd be dumb enough to try and duplicate it) at 100 yards using the hold over technique, since I can only lower my sight enough for 80 yards.
I pinwheeled the one and only "long-range" target (70 yards) at our club 3-D shoot Saturday. No slider, just held my 40 yard pin about 4' over the 10 ring and let 'er fly. That arrow arced right in like a bent laser.
More than 50 years of shooting a stickbow at long ranges may have helped, as did dumbass luck.
I would never shoot at any animal at those ridicules distances BUT in the 60s, Field tournaments (up to 80 yds) I did with 38# Recurve & fingers with no problens.. Shoot them today with 50# Longbow & 60# Compound with lots of room to make 100 if needed. I do have a low anchor though..
Ahunter, that sounds like fun. Something like that would make for a sweet novelty game. Tell us more about your set up back then.
My archery has 2 weekend shoots a year and they always have a long shot, $X for 3 arrows. Some guys would hold their arrow tip on the horizon. Good times, closest to center wins
To be clear, you don't have to use "kentucky windage". I did what I always do when I run out of pins; I count back up the pins and hold on whatever is in the background where that pin is with my bottom pin. It's pretty accurate for elevation, for targets anyway. I would never shoot past 50 (and rarely even that far) on an un-injured animal no matter what the situation, my confidence, or equipment.
When your arrow is the pin it gets kinda tough. And clouds move too much
Stealthycat,
I guess I had never really thought about whether my .010 pin totally covered the big spots on my target but I just shot back to 80 yards yesterday evening if I remember correctly, I could still see the spots at 50 and 60 yards but at 70 and 80 the spot was totally covered. I can double check the next time I shoot if it really makes a difference to you...
Why would anyone take a shot on a animal with a bow at that range, unethical and foolish. Use a rifle if you want long shots, always thought bowhunting was up close and personal but I been wrong by the average bowhunters, just my personal opinion. Seen an ad for Matthews from some slick killing a buck from a 100 yards a couple of years ago, so there you go.
"Why would anyone take a shot on a animal with a bow at that range, unethical and foolish."
jjs, you might want to actually read what people have posted. Unless I missed it, I haven't seen where anyone is advocating taking 100yd shots at animals...unless they're foam.
x2..... Please reference post #16 Thank you, drive thru.
Could someone post a picture of their anchor low like that? Cheesehead would you mind? I've never really looked into it, but wondered how guys get that kind of range out of their rigs. Mine max at 70 and the bottom of my sight ring is 80. The first two guesses of 10 yard increments are generally pretty accurate, but I'd only shoot at a moderately alert couse deer at 90. After that you're just crazy.
Here you go APauls.
This is my new "lower" anchor point. As you can see, it's not that low but it's lower than it used to be.
Mike, if it's lower than it used to be, did you use to anchor in your ear? LOL! That is actually still pretty high. try the lower corner of your jaw.
Yes Mark, I used to anchor closer to the top of my ear and I used a feather/vane in the corner of my mouth as a kisser. I'm very comfortable with this anchor and I can currently get well over 100 yards with my sight so I don't need to anchor any lower to get more distance...
If I lowered my anchor to the corner of my jaw, the arrow would be down by my chin and that would be too low. Also, I wouldn't be able to touch the string with my nose unless I increased my draw length, which I don't want to do and the lower you anchor the harder it is to draw longer because your arm and your shoulder get bound up... at least mine does.
I think I'm anchored right where I need to be based on the geometry of the bow and the dimensions of my head/face.
I agree with Scar Finga. That's pretty normal to just a bit high. This is what mine looks like from several years ago (different bow and arrows from now) with a thumb release. It hasn't changed. But I still can only lower my sight for 80 yards (still using a pin and not the sight ring) before I start getting nervous about clearance. If I had a kisser it would be in the corner of my mouth. I don't feel the need because I'm locked into the corner of my jaw between my first two knuckles.
If you look at the location of my actual release you'll see that it is about even with the corner of my jaw. The position of my hand puts my knuckles up by my ear.
I could make the same observation/statement about your anchor Ziek because a portion of your hand is just as high (if not higher) in relation to your ear as my hand/ear.
I think the critical part is where the arrow and string are located in relation to my face. Different people will have their hand contact there face/jaw/ear in different locations depending on the type of release and the position of their hand (type of grip on the release, etc.)
I don't think it really matters where your hand contacts and anchors on your face as long as it's comfortable and repeatable and as long as your actual release and arrow are in the proper location.
My arrow and release might be slightly high but if I lowered it I would have to tip my head forward/down in order to touch the tip of my nose to the string. My Halon is short ATA which puts the string farther from my face and causes me to have to anchor slightly higher in order to touch my nose to the string.
Mike, I wasn't criticizing your form. Just trying to emphasize for others that you need something solid and repeatable to you, as you said. It's hard for me to imagine what you did before, and by many comments on this and other threads, what others might be doing. You should be able to close your eyes, draw to your anchor, and when you open your eyes, your sight hood should be lined up in your peep without any, or just very slight adjustment. As far as the string touching your nose; mine also happens to. But it's secondary and not very necessary if you have a solid anchor. More just a preference maybe. I sure wouldn't change an otherwise good anchor to achieve it if I had a smaller nose.
Got it Ziek, I realize you weren't criticizing. Sorry if I came across a little harsh.
I think with all the different variations out there it isn't always one size fits all...
Mike, for S&G's drop your anchor lower and blank bail a few shots, no need to make any major adjustments, just your anchor. See if it lets your shoulders breathe more.
Just playing around a little I can feel how much more relaxed I am at full draw. Gonna spend some more time on this.
70 lb bow, 30 inch draw, normal anchor (corner of mouth with nock) and peep height, 350 grain arrow, Elite GT500, single pin slider sight, 180 yard pin. Arrow shoots 328 fps at bow
70 lb bow, 30 inch draw, normal anchor and peep height, 370 grain arrow, Elite Synergy, single pin slider sight, 140 yard pin. Arrow shoots 305 fps at bow.
I like to shoot archery golf with this setup and I have developed a pin gap sight tape that will extend my shooting out to 300 yards, farther if I want to spend the time to make it up.
We held our annual club closing social campout last weekend and golf shoot. I was able to win the event. We allow range finders.
Using feathers or vanes will make a difference in the distance the arrow flies. I can get 500 yards max distance out of my GT500 using vanes (plastic). 100 yards less using feathers. Fletch size will also make a difference as well as tip weight (FOC). Lots of variables to consider.
If playing golf... landing an arrow within touching distance of the puck is close enough. If hunting, 50 yards is absolutely maximum distance that I will shoot at a deer or elk.
70 lb bow, 30 inch draw, normal anchor (corner of mouth with nock) and peep height, 350 grain arrow, Elite GT500, single pin slider sight, 180 yard pin. Arrow shoots 328 fps at bow
70 lb bow, 30 inch draw, normal anchor and peep height, 370 grain arrow, Elite Synergy, single pin slider sight, 140 yard pin. Arrow shoots 305 fps at bow.
I like to shoot archery golf with this setup and I have developed a pin gap sight tape that will extend my shooting out to 300 yards, farther if I want to spend the time to make it up.
We held our annual club closing social campout last weekend and golf shoot. I was able to win the event. We allow range finders.
Using feathers or vanes will make a difference in the distance the arrow flies. I can get 500 yards max distance out of my GT500 using vanes (plastic). 100 yards less using feathers. Fletch size will also make a difference as well as tip weight (FOC). Lots of variables to consider.
If playing golf... landing an arrow within touching distance of the puck is close enough. If hunting, 50 yards is absolutely maximum distance that I will shoot at a deer or elk.
Ohio,
I was shooting yesterday evening and I tried to lower my anchor point as you suggested and it was very uncomfortable.
Two things happened:
Lowering my anchor point lowered my shoulder which caused my shoulder blade to press down on the muscle in my back below it and it felt very "bound up". In other words, the back muscle below my shoulder blade was pushing up against my shoulder blade creating resistance against lowering my shoulder.
Also, dropping my anchor point caused my elbow to be lowered which decreased the angle between my bicep and forearm. This actually caused a pinch making my bicep press uncomfortably against my forearm which also made my arm feel very "bound up".
My current anchor point is very comfortable and relaxed. Part of what makes it comfortable and relaxed is the way my back muscles are comfortably "locked in" and my bicep is pressing naturally/comfortably against my forearm. It's kind of like drawing your bow back to the wall against the draw stops. Trying to lower my anchor point any further kind of feels like pushing my body past the wall or draw stop and my body is fighting it and pushing back.
I think this is an example of different things working for different people depending on anatomy, equipment, etc.
Also FWIW as you can see in this photo, my peep is already very close to the rubber coated balls and monkey tail that's on the string. Lowering my anchor point would require the peep to be raised further on the string which would move it even closer to the rubber stuff. This might start to cause an issue with serving in the peep and also might put the monkey tail, etc. closer to my field of view than I want.
Check out this anchor, or should I say lack of?
Wow!
Also, I don't know that it's cast in stone but the "experts" say that the nock should be no farther back than even with the back corner of your eye. Her nock comes all the way back to her ear and it appears that the draw length of that bow is way too long for her. Although I think her left arm is bent too much and straightening it out some would move the nock forward in relation to her face.
Look how close the peep is to the string silencer and she's using peep sight tubing. I wonder if whoever set that bow up for her knew what they were doing...? Or maybe she's shooting somebody else's bow...?
A good example of what NOT to do! But judging by her physique and that form, she can't be pulling much over 25 pounds. Might work on a level shooting range. Not so much in actual hunting.
I always compare archery to golf, doesn't matter what your technique is as long as you can repeat it with the performance you desire. I've seen some nasty swings yet it works for them. Just one of those things, not everyone is cookie cut the same.
Is it just me or is that tubing causing deflection in her string?
Well....she's hot, so she gets a pass. ;-)
Nick, I agree! Anyone that says she has bad form needs to have their eyes checked!
I agree that she gets a pass ;^)
Good catch on the string deflection Ohio; it appears that the draw weight of the peep sight tubing is greater than the draw weight of the bow!
Ohio & Cheesehead: If she were to add a symmetrical peep below the grip it would increase draw weight and balance the system LOL
Now pin size matters?!?! Geez, a guy just can't catch a break!
