Matthews Drenalin - 60 or 70 lb Limbs?
Equipment
I'm about to order a Matthews Drenalin but cannot decide which limbs to order; 60 or 70 lbs. I was about to order 70 lb limbs but my dealer suggested 60. I want to shoot around 65. He told me the Drenalins were coming in heavy and that it would take five turns down to get 65 out of 70 lb limbs. He knows guys who are doing this but he does not recommend it. What do you Bowsites recommend? I value your opinions and appreciate your recommendations. Thanks, Windwalker
I have had two Matthews, I had an original MQ-32. Which was a good bow. I have since purchased a Switchback, which I love. I got both of these in the 60 weight limbs. I was not disappointed in either. The MQ-32 came in "hot" my 60 lbs actually was drawing 63 lbs, my Switchback was was closer but still was drawing 61. Depends on what type of game. I ran a calculation on KE on the Gold Tip web page. I have enough KE for most North American Big game that an arcerh from Indiana would hunt. Also on those cold mornings, the 60 lbs is much better on the muscles of a cold November tree stand. >>>>------> T
I bought a Drenalin over the weekend,my dealer also suggested that I go with the 60 lbs limbs.I bought the 60 lbs bow, its actually drawing 63.5 to 64 lbs.
I personally would rather shoot the bow bottemed at a heavy 60 rather than a 70 backed down to 65. That may still be old school thinking but thats what i would do.
I would check the scales first, then check the specs on the bow set-up. Either can be the cause of high readings. My 70# SBXT was bottomed and pulling 73# on my scale. When I got the electronic scale from Easton, it shows right on. Whichever you choose, I would bottom it and accept whatever weight that is.
I am buying a Bowtech but I am haveing the same debete with myself.
I have herd this too about the poundage, but rmember after string stretch u will be pressed to get the top weight out of it. i speak with experience my 70# xt can only get to 67# now. But i do shoot alot.
Why are you set on shooting 65lbs?
I have a Drenalin with 70 lb limbs and it takes 3 turns out to get 65 lbs and thats where I shoot it also. With a 412 gr arrow and a 29 1/2 in draw that gets me 74 ft lbs of kinetic energy which should be plenty. But if you are never planning to go over 65 lbs then it may be better to get the 60. Only you can determine your draw capabilities in all weather conditions.
dealer is an idiot. If you want to shoot 65 lbs you get 70 lb limbs.
Let me clarify my remard...I was too hard with the idiot remark. What I think the dealer is trying to do is put you in a bow that is shooting at the top end of it's range. A bow always shoots better at top end. I would however not go for that "coming in heavy" line. As many of noted above...there is lots of things that affect draw weight over time. Get the heavy limbe..You will be lucky to get 70 of them and you can back them off a turn or two and you'll be very happy.
I realize that 60 lb limbs are adequate for big game hunting but I've always shot 65 lbs and killed deer, elk, black bear, kudu, gemsbuck, impala, pronghorn, ect. Next September I'm trying for caribou and want to be effective out to 60 yards which is the main reason I want to stick with 65 lb. With all else being equal I wonder how much difference there is between 60 and 65 lb limbs.
Todays bows are very efficient, in the past I would say a bow shoots better when maxed...but the bows now I feel the difference is not what it was. See if you can shoot one at 60lbs vs your bow at 65lbs....you might get a surprise. Its really your call.
Ive had 5 Mathews.....if you are set on 65lbs, do not buy 60lb limbs.....any overage "new" will be gone once it is shot in. Id back off the 70lb limbs 2 turns, shoot it for a month , and then check the draw weight. R
i have never had a mathews bow come in at 70# when i bought it, or after i put a thousand shots through it.
all bows i've had came in at 72#-73#. every single one of them. and they were test on more than one scale.
the 2 xt's i've got both come in at 73#'s. ones like new the other has one year of hunting and 1000 shots or so at the range. both have cuda strings.
73# seems the magic number with mathews for me.
My MQ1 & Legacy both have 70# limbs. Due to the conditions of my shoulder and elbow, I have backed both bows down to 58#. My Matthews dealer says that you can back them to 55#. They both tune and shoot great. I'm thinking about buying 60# limbs if I have to get myself repaired. DD
Tuckerman, I was told by the Mathews tech that after you have shot the bow several times the string has stretched and needs to be taken and have a few twists put in it and your poundage would return to normal. With the new barracuda strings that may not be necessary. Apparently they pre-stretch them. I own a Legacy set at 70lbs. when new, but checked it sometime after and it was only getting 67lbs. I,ll be replacing the original string (Zebra) with a Barracuda in a few days and see if I get my poundage back. I will let you know.
I'd take the 70# limbs. Like carrying extra clothing ... if you ever need to go above 63# or whatever you might squeeze out of 60lb limbs ... you've got it right there. Like going for larger game, or longer range, or heavier arrows ... whatever. My philosophy is "Better to have it and not use it, than not have it and need it." I give myself the extra latitude. I shot my 70# Hoyt at 66# ... and my 70# Bowtech is now at 62#. The Bowtech is still pushing 70KE. I've had my 70# limbs down as far as 55# on the Hoyt. I'm no expert, but FPS, KE, MO ... is just that ... and it doesn't matter if I'm getting it out of 70# limbs set at 62#'s or 60# limbs set at 62#.
"but FPS, KE, MO ... is just that ... and it doesn't matter if I'm getting it out of 70# limbs set at 62#'s or 60# limbs set at 62#."
Exactly
I'm getting higher FPS and KE out of my new 60# Tribute as was my maxed out 70# Q2XL which had no problem with complete pass through on elk at 45 yds (I'm not comparing brands just new vs old). So why go to 70#'s?
There are way to many people out there shooting more bow than they can comfortably handle. Shoot a bow at the range for a 1/2 hour with max'ed 60's then do the same with max'ed 70's then see what you think.
simple fact, shoot as much weight as you can possibly shoot comfortably. 70# is always going to fly faster than a 60# bow with all other things equal. thus, giving you more k.e, faster flight(less jumping the string), flatter tragetoy(yardage mistakes).
but i will say this, i even see it at the range every time i go....people shoot more than they can handle COMFORTABLY. they struggle to pull those bows back in totally controlled conditions on a heated range. i can just imagine them up 20+' in a tree in 25 degree weather, afyer sitting there motionless for the last 4 hours.
here's a a couple of tests for you to try.
can you hold you bow for 2 minutes at full draw without movement, and then hold it steady to hit your target at 30 yards. and group 3 shots?
can you draw your bow 10x smoothly, and let down 10x smoothly and than make the shot at 300 yards consistently. and group 3 shots?
simple and honest test to insure that to much weight will not be a potential for a hunting mishap.
don't over bow yourself. but shoot the most you can.
good luck.
30 yards not 300 , sorry typo.
Or imagine jogging 100yds then stopping to shoot a bow you already aren't comfortable drawing, you'll be all over the place.
WOW Serb I'm really humbled now "make the shot at 300 yards consistently. and group 3 shots?" :)
You see guys at the range pulling back a bow and they are pointing straight up skyward and every bird is flying for cover. Shoot what you can handle comfortably.
Another good test to determime if you are comfortable at your draw weight is: sit on the floor with your legs out in front, hold your bow level and draw smoothly straight back, hold for several seconds, then let down - slowly and smoothly with the bow held level and in complete control.
After that I agree with SERBIANSHARK - shoot as much as you can handle COMFORTABLY.
Sometimes the contortions you see people doing when drawing are due more to ignorance of proper shooting form or bad habits as much as being over-bowed. Do them a favor and try to educate them.
contortionists are funny though. i also like the birds flying for cover remark.....busted out lol.
When I was in Bass Pro the other day there was a sales person in the archery dept trying to sell a bow to someone who was obviously new to archery. I fiddled around in the dept just to listen. The sales person actually had to help the guy draw the bow, all the while telling him it was the right bow for him.
Talk about setting someone up for failure. You'd think even Bass Pro would try to put people in their archery dept that knew what they were doing. I'm sure some do, but this one should have been selling lamps or camp dishes.
It's too bad we can't attract the folks who are interested in starting archery to bowsite so they could ask questions before they go shopping. At least they would have a vague idea what they are looking for and when they should turn around and walk out the door.
coloradokid.....very well put.
I like shooting 60 lbs, but I still shoot a 65% let off (oh the horror). My last several bows have been 70 lb peak wt bows that I back down to 60. I have had no problems with backing off the top end with my bows. I would guess the dealer's main concern was with the amount he was backing the limb bolts off to get to 65 lbs. I'm not sure about some of the new models, but 5 turns out used to be the max recommended by manufacturers. Backing out a full five turns always made me jumpy, probably without reason, but still jumpy. Funny how the bows efficiencies have increased, but we still thinks higher wts are required. If 65 or 70 was good twenty or maybe even ten years ago, then 55 to 60 is probably good today. I have a different way of looking at it. Instead of taking advantage of increased kinetic energy by keeping my previous draw wt, I've taken advantage by keeping the same kinetic energy and dropping my draw wt off to a more comfortable wt. It doesn't matter how far the arrow travels behind the animal.
Although, if my shoulders didn't already hurt at the age of "almost" 37, I would still be shooting more wt.
Any new bow made at 60, will shoot at 65. Manufacturers would never make tolerances that tight because of lawsuits That being said, any 60 lb bow shot accurately will kill any north american game set at 60 lbs. Just ask Dwight Schuh. He shoots 55.
I have a 60# outback, debated getting 70# just like you because I like to shoot about 65# in warmer weather hunts. Guess I'd really like one of each. But I find the 60# very adequate and easier to practice with. Will probably never increase poundage. Prefer the confidence of great accuracy even when cold and stiff. Jim
You might want to read my thread on my Switchback XT blow up before you buy. I am having the factory refitt it with 60 pound limbs instead of 70. Never again will I back out those limb bolts trying to go to a lower weight. This is the first Matthews bow out of 8 that has done this, but two blow ups back to back is enough for me. Good luck to you sir. John
A lot of it may be determined from what you previously shot.
After shooting several of the Switchback XT models, I went with the 70# (80% Let-off). I had planned to shoot it around 62 to 64 Pounds.
After maticulously fine tuning it, to get everything shooting perfectly, we had to raise the poundage up to 72#'s Which surprisingly is not maxed out on the limbs. The reason for having to increase weight was I had my arrows cut a little too short for the set-up and to get the spine correct increased poundage was necessary. (I should have had an extra inch or so in arrow length beyond the riser of the bow).
But after all of that, my 72# (80% let-off) Switchback XT is much easier to draw, and definately easier to hold back for a long period compared to my previous bow (1996 model Martin) which was shooting around 61 #'s.
Do what is right for you.
my drenalin was ordered at 70 lbs it took me 3 days to pull it .i thought i was a wimp finily got it back put it on my scale 81 lbs i dont feel so bad now ;]
When i was 20 i shot a 80# compound because it was the tuff thing to do. Luckly i had enough strength to pull it off,and i could put the arrow in the kill zone most of the time. Today at 53 I want a bow that is much less draw weight because i want to hit the X everytime! Men have the slightly inherit ability to over do everything, you know TIM THE TOOL MAN, lets not forget the Native American Indian hunter killed Buffalo with a stick and arrow!!!! We should shoot a bow that is powerful enough to take the animal we are seeking yet at the weight we can draw, aim and shoot well enough to hit the kill zone extremely consistantly. I am reminded of a story of the old bull and the young bull standing on the hillside looking down in the valley at all the heifers in the herd. The young bull looks at the old bull and with a spark in his eye says lets run down the hill and service a heifer. The old bull looks back at him, smiles and says lets walk down and service them all!!! The moral of the story is more can be better if approached in the right way.
Thanks guys for all the input. Think I will order two bows; one with 60 the other with 70.
I have been considering the drenlin for some time and after i made a comment earlier today i went to my local pro shop and bought a drenlin. I had a Hoyt Lazertec. I cant believe this myself but the 70# Drenlin is easier to pull than the hoyt set at 60# and it is so smooth at the roll over it is amazing. I am 53 and i have absolutely no trouble bringing the bow to full draw. I had planned to have the pro shop order a 50# or at the most a 60# bow.
You guys have got me thinking again & thats a little dangerous!I have shot my bows at or close to the max 70 # for several years & lately have gradually backed the limbs off to a more comfortable 60-63#. Are you saying this could be a problem? I know JohnElder is saying that. How many others have experienced the same problems?
buglemaster You do want to be careful when backing bows off, never more than five turns of the screws. The parallel limb design can be a problem if you torque the bow. By the way from what i understand if you never grip the bow when drawing and shooting you will never torque it. I suggest you go shoot some of the new bows. I bought a hoyt Lazertec at christmas just to have a cheap bow to shoot with my grandson. since then i have really done some homework and found that cheaper isnt always better and never better in archery. Im 53 and i began shooting when i was around 20yrs old. because of all sorts of reasons i got out of shooting for a number of years. I had the pro shop turn the Hoyt down to 58 pounds, which was the bottom of where it should be set. since that time i have regained the ability to pull it back at the top end of 68#. As i stated in a earlier comment I bought the drenlin yesterday. I am completely amazed at how little effort it takes to draw this bow. it is set at 70# which is the suggested draw on it and at 80% let off you are holding 14#. with this said the hoyt bow took more to draw at around the 60# and hold at the full draw setting than the drenlin set at 70#.
I just bought a new drenalin 70# and scaled #73 it's just right.
