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While helping my brother paper tune his Hoyt Powertec, we encountered a constant inch long nock right tear. Visible arrow flight with field points look fine and even though the bow is not setup properly for me (draw length to long) and I haven’t owned a compound in a couple of years, I was able to shoot groups of about 5-6 inches at 40m.
The only thing that helped remedy the tear was moving the rest way to the left when viewed from the shooters end. It is however not completely gone and the centershot is as off as it can be. I did however notice some cam lean in the top came when the bow is at full draw. This lean which is from left to right (i.e. the top of the cam is at 11 o clock and the bottom at 5 o clock viewed from shooters end) is only visible when the bow is drawn. When holding the bow at full draw the bottom of the cam can be seen on the right side of the string.
Is this lean consistent with a nock right tear, and what can be done to fix this seeing the string has a floating yoke.
I suggest that you take the bow to a good shop. I'm a fan of tuning bows myself, however, my Protec got the best of me regarding cam timimg. A different problem than you have, but the pro shop helped a lot. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Replace the split cable or serve up the floating yoke to make it a fixed yoke. Then make your twist adjustments in the yoke to minimize the cam lean you are observing. Then put the rest back to center shot and you should be back in business.
Further, I worry little about small paper tears, but rather focus more on shooting form and then making small adjustments to get field tips to hit to the same spot as fixed blade heads at longer distances (30-60 yds).
I went through exactly what you are going through a few months ago with my frienda Powertec. The floating yoke system Hoyt puts on their bows is a very good design that minimizes cam lean. The cable has the ability to track back and forth across the yoke to flex each part of the split limb evenly. This design works well in that it doesn't require the shooter to twist either side of the yoke to minimize cam lean. The problem occurs with the shorter ATA bows, like the Powertec. The cable guard has more of an effect on the Powertec than that of my Ultratec due to the ATA being shorter. Due to the increased cam lean, you can move your rest farther away from the riser to combat this issue. If the rest being way left of center concerns you, serve the yoke so that you can twist either side of the yoke to remove the excessive lean. I hope this was somewhat helpful and not just a long winded repeated answer. :)
The yoke is definitely the culprit. That amount of cam lean had my ultra tec so jacked that my sight wouldn't go far enough to the left to compensate for the rest movement. Get rid of the split yoke and twist your right yoke (from the shooter's point of view) to bring the cam back in line. If you don't do this, broadhead shooting will become an absolute nightmare!
A Tear right is a sign of Torquing the bow, try different handles or wrist position's.
Check the bushings at the upper cam and make sure all of them are there and not worn out. I am not sure on the bow you are shooting but most hoyts have an outside bushing to take up axel slack, make sure yours has it. Also you can twist the floating yoke but more important check arrow spine and true center shot. I am able to setup Hoyts with the laser center shot tool and have very little adjustment for bullet holes on all 4 of mine. Look for binding at the cable guard also. Tighten everything up.
I can tell you cam timing is important and the cables should hit the stop and lay in the track simultanouly. What rest are you using, poundage, arrow length and spine?
Can anyone of you Guys Comment on the Hoyt Vectrix XL, I haven't shot a bow since 2001, and I'm sure bows have come a long way since then, I use to shoot and Bow Hunt with a Carrol by PSE Marauder II, Wrist surgery forced me to hang up my bow, and I have decided now to once again reaquaint myself to the art Archery. I made a trip to the local archery shop last week and the first bow the owner of the shop showed me was this Hoyt Vectrix XL, I was very pleased by its feel over the others I picked up, which were: Hoyts 38 Ultra, Diamonds Black Ice, and Bears Truth. Several friends of mine told me that PSE has earned a bad reputation for Limb cracks, so I didnt even ask to hold one of them. I did shoot the Hoyt Vectrix XL, and I must say, I was speechless, words could not express the way I felt when I released and I heard the arrow hit the target 15 yards from me and I never heard the bow, It had the most smoothest and quietest release of any bow I have ever shot, there was litterally no hand shock what so ever when the bow went off. I want to know what you guys think so steer me in the right direction. I'm not rich, the bow that I purchase is going to have to last me a good 5-6 years. My friends tell me that the Bowtech Gardian is the bow to get, A buddy of mine hase a 2006 Hoyt Ultratec, that he wants to sell me for $400, I dont know anything about the Ultratec bows, so any input on the Ultratec would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, G
I have been having a problem with blazers contacting the cable, after reading this I noticed the top cam is tilting, could the two be related?
Geronimo...The Ultratec was one of Hoyt's best selling bows of all time. A lot of shooters in the last couple of years have upgraded to the Vetrix and other models...but for $400 you can't go wrong especially if he gives you the accessories to go along with it.
$400.00 for a 06 Ultratec. I would run to the guys house. I have been shooting one for the last 4 years and it is one of the sweetest bows Hoyt has every made. I wouldn't trade mine of any of the new ones. Except maybe a Ultra elite.