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I have been doing a little online research on paper tuning. Came across this article that caused confusion. Based on other sites I visited, doesn't the "left tear" indicate the arrow is under-spined (among other possible causes)?
There are several causes to each tear. Not just spine or centershot, or nock hieght. This is why the Easton Tuning Guide sucks for papertuning. They just don't cover most of the information.
Things like grip torque, limb twist, fletch contact, nock pinch, cam timing, cam synch, nock travel in relation to rest support resistance, all these things and more need to be considered when paper tuning.
Only VERY experienced archery pro's should conduct paper tuning with a bow owner. It's not something that can be done by a "do it yourselfer". That's where all the "paper tuning is a waste of time" guys show up. The guys who say that are just admitting they don't know how to paper tune. Not that you have to paper tune a bow, but it can be done, and it can be done to the point of not having to do any other adjustments to get same POI with BH's. But don't believe a guy who says his bow is perfectly tuned and yet does NOT shoot a clean hole in paper. Those guys are the guys we call "cyber experts". The ones with litterealy thousands of posts on forums like this. The ones who post several times a day and talk the talk. Be carefull of those guys, they probably don't even work in the archery business. And I would never take advise from a guy who does not work as an archery pro on a daily basis.
Sorry for the rant, this is one of my pet peeve subjects.
Hope the rant helped you. Didn't do much for me. I was really only interested in whether the link had info backwards on the left tear. My last point of: (among other possible causes) was there because I know that there are several causes. Again, I was just checking on the info in the link.
I would beg to differ that some of us lowly "do it yourselfers" can paper tune. We may not be able to get into the deep causes. But if moving a nock point down fixes a bad hole, I am happy. I have tried some of the simple fixes and had very good results. I have also checked some arrows that are in the "marginal" range on the spine chart. Paper tune gives me the indication that they are too marginal. I would rank that as a success.
I disagree. Paper tuning is a process that can be mastered by anyone. Bring your bow to me and I can have it shooting perfect bullet holes quick. You may not be able to shoot bullet holes do to form.....but the bow will do it. It can be confusing when there are multiple issues but use the tuning guide and change one thing at a time and you will get it figured out. This is not to say I haven't been mighty confused at times. When that happens I just re square everything up and start over like I was just putting the bow together for the first time.
Agree with SA totally. I too need no more then a half hour to get perfect paper cuts.
Most ofthe time that also has me dead nutz with BH TO FP tuned also. Sometimes (rarely) I have a tweek to do there. But not often.
I agree with SA as well. I've been paper tuning before most of the "pros" around here were born.
To answer you question which no one here seems to want to do I will say that a left tear means a stiff shaft and a right tear means a weak shaft.
Stiff tears really only show up with fingers shooters, or poeple with really bad form.
The link is correct, assuming of course that everything else is perfect. But again I say... not so much with a release and a a well timed bow.
I can paper tune with the best of them. But then, that's what I do. Lots of guys on this forum that can. Also lots of guys who can't/won't. Most of the good paper tuners I know of come from the north and east where winter bow setups require indoor tuning at 20 yards or less. Southern boys and western boys seem to have unlimited long range warm weather shooting oportunities to BH and walkback tune.
I agree with most of what jbarbour wrote, with the obvious exceptions of guys on this site who clearly know what their doing. But remember that those are but a few of the thousands of new bow buyers every year. Too many rookies out there trying to solve every problem by moving their rest around.
Chip T. thanks for the input. My confusion comes from reading several "basic" articles that say a left tear means an under - spined shaft. Just the opposite of the PSE article. I am enclosing one link. I shot 2 different arrows. My old aluminum and new carbons. The new carbons were very close with a slight left tear. My old aluminum had a more pronounced left tear.
For a weak shaft, you have to read just the point entry of the tear. Keep the paper taught and square, and take a good look at the point entry. It'll tell you if the arrow actually went through sideways, or just overflexed. If you need to, shoot an overly stiff arrow and move the rest so you get a left tear. Then you can compare the two holes. You'll see what I mean.
Most of the time though, if everything else is correct, a weak shaft will tear diagonally a bit with a release, not just sideways.
Just curious, do any of you compund shooter bare shaft tune(bare shaft planing)This is what I use with my longbows ands recurves.
I'm tuned when I can keep 3 bare shaft and 3 fletched shafts in a 9" grop at 30 yards... and I shoot abare shaft every now and then when practicing. It really shows form mistakes. I can get close with paper tuning but my relase with fingers is not anywhere near consistant enough.
The only bare shafting I do is through paper. Once I get a bare shaft to fly straight through paper at all three distances, I know I'm very close to done.
Bare shaft tuning is simply a test to see if your arrows are spined correctly. If fletched and unfletche arrows impact the target together then your arrows are spined correctly. It serves no other purpose.
Paper tuning is easily affected by grip.
I was getting a tail left tear with my new Mathews Drenalin LD. Typically if I have trouble it's tail right, not left. I bought a Torquless grip and that helped. I still had a little tail left and the rest was as close to the riser as I wanted to go, got it set on 5/8". I had bullet tears with GT 75/95 shafts, 100 gr. tip Blazers and a wrap, but the FOC was a low 9 percent. I wasn't happy with the FOC. I couldn't get the tear perfect with a 125 tip, but FOC was better.
I tried a CX Maxima 350 with 4" feathers, wrap and 125 tip and it tuned perfectly; plus, the FOC is 12 percent with that combo. I'm happy with 12 percent FOC. The Maxima shouldn't have fixed the tear, since the spine is theortically weaker than what wouldn't work, but sometimes the opposite of what should work is the solution.
"Paper tuning is a process that can be mastered by anyone."
Anyone with good form and can read paper. I do not care for paper tuning because BH tuning is a more direct process that IMO yields a better result. I read too many posts by people who have "perfect bullet holes" in paper but acheive imperfect BH flight.
I used to "rough" paper tune as it usually helped me avoid looking for first FBBH ;-]
Now I go straight to FBBH/FP tune.
many people do not paper tune to shoot perfect bullet holes. if your a right hand shooter, an arrow that has a slight high left tear is perfect. that way you can be assured the arrow is coming up off the rest and arrow shelf the same way each time.
a perfect bullet hole is a little more critical to shoot. which is why when we helped people paper tune bows in our archery shop, we never tried to get them to tune for perfect bullet holes.
i will agree, that shooting form is absolutely critical for paper tuning. if you cant dupilcate the same shot everytime, then the time you paper tuned your bow on 3 or 4 bad shots will be wrong. i have seen 3 differant tears out of the same bow that was paper tuned by another person. you must paper tune your own bow.
that said paper tuning is only the begining. you must have your arrow tuned to the bow before you even start paper tuning. that in itself is a tricky job. most guys dont understand that you have to do all of this in steps.
my steps are. 1.tune bow to specs. 2.spin tune arrow, with field points and broadheads. 3.tune arrow to bow 4.paper tune. 5.sight in and walk back tune.
seems like this has worked for me the last 7 years. before then i had no clue what i was doing.lol.
"many people do not paper tune to shoot perfect bullet holes. if your a right hand shooter, an arrow that has a slight high left tear is perfect."
That method works great for target shooting, but in your experience how well does that translate for folks who want to be able to shoot field points, judos, MBH's, FBBH's, etc. interchangeably (i.e. same point of impact)?
i havnt experienced any differance at all. i paper tune my bow to shoot slightly high left for my hunting arrows. as long as you shoot all the same weight and spine arrows and make the same shot each time they will come out of the bow the same way each time.
now if you want to shoot a 350gr 3d arrow out of a bow you tuned to shoot 425 gr broadhead and field tip arrow for hunting, then they wouldnt fly the same for the obvious reason. you would need to retune for that arrow.
this is the only year i have ever had exact point of impact from broadheads to field points. most years they are just slighly off. maybe only a 1/2 inch but still off. this year i upped my broadheads to 100 grains from 75 and bingo dead on impact for both broadheads and field points.
of course my observations and way of tuning my bow are only a suggestion. if your getting great accuracy doing what your doing, then by all means do it. whats most important is that your shooting where you aiming or better yet shooting where your looking..lol
I paper tune, I think it works Nock left is weak shaft. Google tuning for tens, 16 pages of really good info to include paper tuning tears and remedys.
TrgtTony - the bow shop I go to tells me the same thing. Slight left high is perfect. Now if I could just release perfect every time...