.006 vs .003 test?
Equipment
Ok here is the question, has anyone done a head to head test with arrows .006 straight versus .003? I have always spent the extra, but read an article that even with a shooting machine the diffeence was so slight that most humans could not tell any difference. What say you?
-i musta read that too.-except i have been buying the .001-i read that while most people will never be able to tell the difference,-if you go afield telling yourself you have the very best equipment available,-at any cost,-your chances of success are much better.-so my take?-i buy what i buy,and convince myself i have the finest shafts available on the market.-and take care of them as such.--j-ust my two cents
Interesting! I've always wondered myself.
I agree with knifer. If you can rule out all the variables in your equipment, the only thing to blame for errant shots is the shooter.
Spine consistency is where it is at.
+1 "Spine consistency is where it is at."
A friend who shoots in the woods behind the house now and then has won several national championships and chooses to hunt with relatively inexpensive shafts.
Watching him shoot bulleyes at 100 yards with broadheads pretty well answers the question for me.
Tourney's are another story and a dozen of his shafts would cost me about as much as my bow but that's a different environment with a lot of financial factors at play.
It depends on your ranges. If you are keeping your shots under 30 yards, you won't have a worry.
I did a very UN scientific test, just shooting groups, .006 vs. .003 vs. .001 with Gold Tip arrows.
Keep in mind that I am NOT a very good shot to begin with.
I did notice a difference between the .006 and the .003, but no difference when moving up to .001.
It was not huge, but at 40 yards, .006 averaged about 1 inch larger than .003 or .001. Also, with the .006 arrows, about one out of ten would go wild, hitting 4 to 6 inches outside of the group. These “flyers” all but disappeared with the .003 and .001 arrows.
For a comparison on those numbers a human hair(head) averages .004". Their is no set measurement practice between manufacturers. Some measure in a span of 14" and others in a span of 28". Their is also a difference in how the # are presented. Some use a +/- deviation others use a TIR. The carbon tech website has a very good explination of this. I also agree with the above posts, spine consistencs is most important.
Take a bundle of .006 shafts loaded with broadheads, and run them on a spin tester.....please post a video of the guy who shoots 100 yard bullseyes with 006 shafts and broadheads, as I am a nay sayer....R
Th least consistent shafts I have ever owned were .0015".
I can assure you that the difference in group size has very little to do with straightness, and more to do with spine differences not only in total shaft spine deflection, but the differences between the spine of a cheap shaft around the circumference of the shaft.
All shafts come out of the same machine at the same time. Only AFTER they have been produced are they sorted into .001, .003, and .006" designations. Most of the straighness difference comes in the runout at the ends of the shafts. Once the ends are removed, "most" of the shafts will measure the same in straightness. The "fliers" are usually just rejects all the way around. Most guys attribute that to straightness, when it most likely is a drastic spine deflection issue.
Most of the steering of an arrow is determined in the first few feet after it leaves the bow. In this first few feet, the arrow is flexing from the force of the string that was pushing it. At this critical time in the arrows flight, it doesn't know or care how straight it was at rest.
I've never seen any spine consistency tolerance results by any manufacturer...who has the best with carbon arrows?
I have Carbon tech whitetails yellows and whites mixed in my quiver . Never seen any diffrence
"I've never seen any spine consistency tolerance results by any manufacturer...who has the best with carbon arrows?"
From what I have seen on this site, Carbon Tech and Victory.
I may have to give it a try and see. I agree spine is the decideing factor. I will order 6-.006 and 6-.003 Gold Tips and see what happens.
I also agree that haveing confidence is a big part of the equation. I was just curious as to if anyone had actuaaly tried and saw a significant difference.
Pay attention to Xman. Haven't personally measured it but good sources say that is accurate info...pun intended.
Strategy would be, cut off both ends of arrows to get the length. Buy the arrows with the best designed spine consistency. Or float your arrows in a bathtub and index nocks accordingly. The wife should find that interesting.
Spine, spine and spine.
... and weight will matter the farther you get from the target face.
For instance, if you have 12 arrows that are all exactly the same in ALL regards (spine, length, fletch, etc...), but have say 15 grains weight varience within that dozen, you'll see elevation (and sometimes windage) varience at the target. The farther back you go, the worse it gets.
Spine, spine and spine.
... and weight will matter the farther you get from the target face.
For instance, if you have 12 arrows that are all exactly the same in ALL regards (spine, length, fletch, etc...), but have say 15 grains weight varience within that dozen, you'll see elevation (and sometimes windage) varience at the target. The farther back you go, the worse it gets.
I check for run out on all shafts before fletching.I check them between v blocks,and I cut the worst part out like said before it is usually on the end.After checking I mark the ones that run out the most and have the most difference in spine and use them for rough practice.For hunting I use the most consistent spine and straitest.Also I have found that what they say they are and what you get are not always correct.Remember when they say .003 straightness factor you will get .006 on a indicator total runout.Years ago when I straightened aluminum arrows that would have made a rabbit arrow.
Agree with the spine comments and rarely have an arrow with FP's not group due to spine. As TD noted, its in BH tuning that the spine issue can be a factor. It can usually be solved by turning the nok and retest.
I have shot the PSE X-Weaves for years, the Raven .008, Hunter.006, Predator.003 and Pro .001. Shooting a 60lb at 290fps, I have not been able to tell the difference at 40 yards with broadheads, Have had at least one flier on each which is a weak spine issue not a straightness issue I think. I shoot the pro's when out hunting, the confidence factor. Now if I was a competitive shooter I would shoot the Pro's then to , same reason. Only reason I shoot the Ravens is the bow shop gets them free and gives them out free. At least that is how I get them
"For instance, if you have 12 arrows that are all exactly the same in ALL regards (spine, length, fletch, etc...), but have say 15 grains weight varience within that dozen, you'll see elevation (and sometimes windage) varience at the target. The farther back you go, the worse it gets."
I have 1 CT that is inexplicably 9 grs. heavier than the rest of the dozen, and I cannot see a difference at 70 yards elevation-wise. IMO the difference is highly speed dependent. The CT web site references some really substantial drop differences for even smaller grain weight differences with FITA recurves, but those launch an arrow quite a bit slower.
I agree and always cut from both ends. I have never had carbons more than +/- 3 grs. I would have to make some calls if I spent $115 and recieved one.
It is funny when I started shooting in the 80's I bet I shot the same aluminums 100's of times and they always worked. I think the high speeds nowadays has some to do. I am a finger shooter so spine is always a concern for me.
The whole thing that got me started thinking was I got a recurve and was thinking buy the cheaper .006 for playing and judo points in my compound.
"I have 1 CT that is inexplicably 9 grs. heavier than the rest of the dozen, and I cannot see a difference at 70 yards elevation-wise..."
Oh, I don't doubt that, but...
I can only speak for what I have experienced. My Carbon Express Maxima Hunters are some of the most accurate arrows I have shot, and they are .0025" straightness. My ST Axis are .003" and are some of the worst arrows I have shot in regards to accuracy. My .0008" TR Crush 300's are both accurate and durable, so those are what I shoot.
