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mathews riser sight blockage
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
hoggyx 27-Apr-11
Bou'bound 27-Apr-11
Matt 27-Apr-11
WapitiBob 28-Apr-11
delmag1942 28-Apr-11
Russ Koon 28-Apr-11
Mark Watkins 28-Apr-11
Matt 28-Apr-11
Chip T. 28-Apr-11
rooster 28-Apr-11
hoggyx 28-Apr-11
hoggyx 28-Apr-11
hoggyx 28-Apr-11
hoggyx 28-Apr-11
hoggyx 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 28-Apr-11
J-ROD 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 28-Apr-11
hoggyx 28-Apr-11
fin little 28-Apr-11
stephen /oregon 29-Apr-11
WapitiBob 29-Apr-11
Matt 29-Apr-11
boothill 29-Apr-11
From: hoggyx
27-Apr-11
Got a mathews z7. Used to have a Switchback XT. I can only see about 2/3 of my my sight reticle on both bows that I have owned. The riser blocks the other 1/3 when perfectly aligned at full draw. Dealer tells me that is just the way the Mathews bows are. I Shoot with a kisser button and a string splitter peep. Shoot a Spott Hogg Hunter Hogg-it 7-pin.

Couple years ago I trained myself to shoot with only a kisser and looked at my sight on the opposite side of the string when at full draw, this solved the problem. But my arrow groups at 40+ yards were not as good without a peep. Went back to a peep.

I shot my buddies hoyt Element and you can see the entire sight reticle and them some. Allowing you to completely center the sight reticle with your peep. Forgot how nice that was after shooting a mathews for 5 years.

I know other mathews shooters have the same problem. Any solutions out there for this problem? Or do I need to go get a Hoyt.

From: Bou'bound
27-Apr-11
Getting a hoyt is always a good option

From: Matt
27-Apr-11
"I can only see about 2/3 of my my sight reticle on both bows that I have owned."

Hand torque, 95% guaranteed. The other 5% wold have to do with center shot and checking for contact.

From: WapitiBob
28-Apr-11
your arrow is too far inside of center.

For lack of a better explanation, your arrow is pointing to the right so you have moved the sight to the right to get the arrow, sight, and target all in the same plane.

The Z7 may have a small center shot. The C4 and some of the others I have seen and shot will be real close to 13/16 from the sight window.

From: delmag1942
28-Apr-11
Get Serious Get Hoyt!

From: Russ Koon
28-Apr-11
First thing to check for would be hand torque.

It's the most likely of several possible causes and is extremely easy, quick and cheap to test for.

Don't think that it can't be that because you're getting great groups and good scores. Hand torque can be repeated with great consistency and your groups can be terrific even with a lot of it involved in your shot.

Check for it by eliminating he friction between your skin and the riser. That can be done by wearing a thin and very low-friction glove like silk or the mesh ones that are meant for hot weather camo, or you can do it the quicker and even more sure-fire way that is a little messy, by applying a good lubricant to the grip or to your bow hand.

WD-40 will do, a good arrow lube like Woody's will be even better. Then just shoot as normally as possible.

If your groups with the lubed hand are hitting in a different place than they were with normal skin contact, you have been torquing the bow without realizing it.

It's very easy to get to that point without knowing it. I was shooting my best 3D scores ever one summer and was doing well in my class at a big shoot, when I accidentally got some Woody's lube on my hand while pulling arrows, and my arrows suddenly began hitting about eight inches left at 30 yards, pretty consistently.

Took a couple targets to realize what the problem was, as my shooting still felt quite normal.

Much handwiping and riser wiping with a towel finally brought the groups back on center, to finish that shoot. Took a bit of retraining to fix the problem correctly by getting the bow hand/wrist directly in line with the target again.

From: Mark Watkins
28-Apr-11
hoggyx, I have had a SBXT, drenalin, dxt, Z7, Z7 mag and mr6....shooting a 7 pin SH hunter hoggit....and have always been able to see about 90% of sight window...

From: Matt
28-Apr-11
I do not know if Mathews has resolved the issue, but they have traidtionally had grips that SUCKED, inducing hand torque. Aftermarket grips were pretty common among Mathews shooters on this site as a result, and that may be an options for you.

From: Chip T.
28-Apr-11
Matt has a point. You can remove your current grip and see how the sight picture looks. If it is better you can get a different grip. For the record, I have a Z7 and the factory grip is better than in past years but I got a Torqueless grip and love it.

From: rooster
28-Apr-11
I shoot a Matthews and have never had that problem. My sight is an Extreme which does have a smaller diameter pin guard but if it were larger I could still see the entire thing. I concur with Matt and the others about the hand torque. How do you hold your bow? The grips on Matthews are big and can be tricky. Try folding you lower 3 fingers in between your palm and the grip that will reduce any torque you are imparting. Also going from a kisser to a peep will change your anchor point (I know it did mine)which could add to your problem. MO

From: hoggyx
28-Apr-11

hoggyx's embedded Photo
hoggyx's embedded Photo
I think some people are confused by my first message so I decided to include some pictures to help. Notice how the Sight housing is hidden behind the riser. NOTE the bow is completely square vertically and horizontly, notice the bubble level in the front view shot is centered. These pictures are exactly what I see through my peep sight when I make shot.

No a smaller recicle does not help, I shot a smaller one in league this winter and had the same problem. The bow center shot is perfect as you can see in the picture.

Hand torque is not an issue. I feel the issue is the design of the bows riser. The bow does not "branch out" enough in the center to allow for the sight.

Whenever this bow is in percect alignment is covers the sight. I know other mathews shooters have the same problem. Is there an offset peep sight manufactured to allow you to look around the string as opposed to through it?

From: hoggyx
28-Apr-11
Another photo

From: hoggyx
28-Apr-11

hoggyx's embedded Photo
hoggyx's embedded Photo

From: hoggyx
28-Apr-11

hoggyx's embedded Photo
hoggyx's embedded Photo

From: hoggyx
28-Apr-11

hoggyx's embedded Photo
hoggyx's embedded Photo

28-Apr-11
definitely not a hand torque issue that is causing the sight window/ sight relationship. Also is not an anchor point issue either.

28-Apr-11

From: J-ROD
28-Apr-11
That looks like a sight design issue not the bow.

That housing is really big to be able to fit 7 pins in it,look at the second picture deffinetly the way the sight is designed;)

28-Apr-11

stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
lets try this again

decided to take a couple pics of my Matthews bow(s) because as soon as I read your post, I knew exactly what you were talking about.

First couple pics are a Mathews Drenalin LD set up for for release shooting, has a Trophy Taker Smackdown rest. The sight is a MBG Solaris.

pic taken from back of bow ( LH bow)

BTW- the bow IS straight up and down on the vertical, even though the sight bubble goes a little to the side. I checked it out and plumbed it and the bubble on this bow is a little bit off from vertical. So I know that is the case when I shoot.

28-Apr-11

stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
now from front of bow- same set up

28-Apr-11

stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
Now Different bow (also a Matthews Drenalin LD) set up to shoot fingers- with an NAP centerrest flipper.

Sight is a MBG Rush. Which has a little bit smaller sight housing than the solaris. And even though same basic issue of not being able to see the full sight ring, it is a little bit less with this sight.

28-Apr-11

stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
stephen /oregon's embedded Photo
same bow and setup from the front (shooter end)

From: hoggyx
28-Apr-11
Can I see some more photos of a perfectly squared bows sight picture? Any hoyts out there? A mathews without the same problem?

From: fin little
28-Apr-11
Its the riser design.It doesnt make one bit of difference with accuracy. I dont even notice it anymore.Mathewsinc.com is a good source of info .

29-Apr-11
Even though mine (the bowsight) was the similar to yours- as my pics showed- it does not affect accuracy one bit. I get great accuracy out of the bowsight on the bow(s) and my own sight picture (eye alignment) whether it is on my finger shooting Dren. LD or my release shooting Dren. LD

Just make sure your anchor, peep/string alignment is consistently the same and you will be fine. Even if you are trying to get your sight lined up within your peep- it still works on the horizontal and vertical even if the inner 1/5 or even if 1/4 is not in view. As long as it is a consistent picture for you- it will make no difference. You can still center the pins within that alignment.

From: WapitiBob
29-Apr-11
My C4's have quite a bit more offset in the riser than that bow.

From: Matt
29-Apr-11
I am noticing your pins line up almost perfectly with your arrow and string, which is quite atypical with compounds that have cable guards. Using Hoggyx's second picture as an example, typically the pins will stick out a bit to the left of the string for a right handed shooter. To put it another way, when the string visually splits the arrow, the pins should be slightly outside the string away from the riser. While the comment about the sight window being shallow on this model is not lost on me, I reiterate my comment above re: hand torque.

From: boothill
29-Apr-11
I put a new Tru Glo 5 pin tool less micro adjust on my Onza last winter and had the same issue. The backside of the sight bar where the screw holes were was beveled out. The sight bar could be used for either right or left handed bows. The way it fit up to my riser the bevel holes kept the bar from being flush to the back of the riser. I ended up putting a flat washer between the sight bar and riser and it straightened it up where it should be. This may not be your problem but it fixed mine.

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