What happen to my beautiful trophy?
International
It was a long time coming, the crate containing my African trophies had finally arrived. I could hardly hold my enthusiasm, to once again hold in my hands the great 56" Kudu I had taken in September. When the lid came off the box I gasped in horror. I'm not sure what I expected, I'm sure the near black, porous looking sticks wasn't it. The polished brown horns of my Kuku had been replaced by 2 spiraling logs that looked as though they had been picked up after a raging grass fire. They held no resemblance to the pictures I been ogling for months. My hope is my taxidermist can restore them to their previous glory. What say you?
Sounds like they have been painted.
I'm sorry to hear that they look pretty abused. The dip and pack process they use can turn them into a darker color approaching black, plus they are usually dried out and cracked with small fissures. I too was disappointed in the way mine looked and since I was doing the taxidermy, it was a goal of mine to figure out how to get them back into looking like the "alive" condition. This was back in 2007 so I hope I can recall the process. I asked around and got numerous answers from other Taxidermists but I came up with my own theories and solutions. First, the drying/cracking process needs to be halted. To do this they must soaked up some kind of oil based product. Some use plain motor oil or other heavy oils. I tried that and kept them heated in the sun to enhance the absorption. Repeat until you feel comfortable that you have them well oiled and it's soaked in sufficiently. Next I was determined to find an optimal way to fill the fissures and cracks and still keep some level of luster. I found that using a "soft" beeswax melted repeatedly over the horns worked nicely. I would apply and let the hot AZ sun allow the wax to soak in. Eventually, the fissures and cracks were filled up and when rubbed it would bring back an appearance of being alive. I also worked to incorporate local varieties of dusty dirt and even used some fire clay to further lighten and soften to a more brown/grey/olive color. I finished it with a good rub down with Old English Dark furniture oil which gives it more luster. I think I got pretty close as you can see from my attached pics. Good luck with them. I also did the same for my Nyala, and Wildebeest horns.
oops meant to attach another one
Oh I forgot to add that I did use a bit of little acrylic paints blended in with the clays and dirt to help tint it towards the color I was looking to achieve which is what you see on this photo.
Also, the base of my horns were chipped in a few spots and missing material which I worked back with pigmented APOXIE sculpt. Had to do a lot of repairs on mine and other Wildbeest horns as the base shrinks up when they boil the skull. I found most of all the horns from Kudu, Nyala, Wildbeest, bushbuck and impala tended to be more cracked, (fissures) and blackened than those of our Waterbuck, Gemsbok, Hartebeest and Blesbok.
Most taxidermists will not spend the time needed to do all this extra restoration work since they would be loosing money and most clients don't even notice or care about this. In fact most would be surprised how different their mounted horns appear compared to how they looked in the field trophy photos. I say if they are going up as European mounts then leave them darker, however you still should try to halt the drying process as mentioned and maybe fill in the voids with Beeswax. Then just finish with some Old English.
I think maybe you can see the true color better on this field pic of my kudu. Many mounts that are done look almost black by comparison. A lot of the olive coloration comes from their rubbing on the bark from the bush and trees.
That's one of the reasons to have your animals mounted here. Had you had it mounted there and they paint your horns black its going to cost you to have the sheaths removed and restored. A friend of mine went ten years ago and had his animals done there. Thought he was saving a bunch. By the time everything was paid he didn't and things like black Kudu horns are just sad.
It's the dipping process. My trophies looked pretty rough too. Skins folded and rock hard. Horns loose and discolored.
My taxidermist said they looked correct and he'll make them natural.
I used Swift Dip services in S.Africa without any problems.
Russell
My Gemsbok horns were in my mind not salvageable. They were boiled beyond recognition. I was sick. It was my favorite trophy but my taxidermist has repaired them. I am sure they can never look like they did but he says they look good. We will see soon.
AZ Rich & Russell you have set my mind to ease. I've done some follow-up research and it seems this is the normal. In their natural state the Kudu horn is porous but over time living in the wild the pores get clogged with dirt and grime. the boiling process takes that away. The horn can be re-conditioned using linseed oil. Myself being a commercial/residential painter for over 35 years my instincts. then took me right to linseed oil as an active lubricate. then its a process of filling the pores with paste wood filler. Stains and/or glazes its good as new. Very much the same process AZ Rich shared.
By the way, AZ Rich, That is a fine animal indeed. Where was you hunting when you came up on that beast. I hunted north of Thabazimbi in the Limpopo region. My bull measured in at 56" and to top it off he carried a 3rd horn (1"x 2"x 3/4 High} on the bridge of his nose.
Post a photo of the unicorn!
Aftermel, Thanks,
Living horn is cornified and thickened keratin derived from the epidermis (skin) along with some other proteins. When the animal dies horn keratin tends to dry out and crack/fissure which is only exacerbated when they boil the skull and put it through their dip process. In living horn as the older Keratin (outer surface)is exposed to sun, rocks, rubbing and fighting, it can show signs of porosity and physical damage and as you point out these voids tend to be filled in with dirt, sap etc. However, they are not very deep when alive but get much deeper/wider when dried out.
I have tried using the paste wood filler and was not thrilled with the results. I found that filling instead with a combination of beeswax/dirt/claypowder,and pigmented smooth grout will bring back much of the natural luster you see in living horn. Subtle polishing of the horn tips with a buffer is also useful to bringing back the horn's natural look and luster. When the wax is heated (sun or blow dryer) it also soaks into the horn. which if done repeatedly will eventually fill up all those voids and prevents the horn from absorbing moisture. With the wax the horn can be brought back to its correct, "subtle" luster from time to time by simply rubbing it lightly with a soft cloth or even your hand. I usually finish it off with a coat of Old English to help darken spots where I need to and add a fine oiled finish which can be nicely rubbed in.
Overall, it's a combination of various techniques that are needed to build back the natural look and to keep it that way over the long haul. I would say it took me about 8 hours total to finish up my kudu horns prior to mounting, so securing a taxidermist who will do that inclusive of the regular price is a good find indeed!
I hope it all works out for you with your mounts and please post pics when they are done. That's a real beast at 56" and am anxious to see it. Mine was really tall but as you can see it is a tight curl. I was hunting with Angus Brown in the Limpopo, not terribly far from Elisras or what they now call Lephalale. Rich
If you look just above the war paint the horn is clearly visable.
Before anybody jumps ugly on the rifle pic. I had to convert to glasses for the first time in my life, just a couple of months earlier. So, I opted to carry both rifle and bow with me to South Africa, just in case. Although I was able to harvest 1 Impala ram with archery tackle, I also lost a fine Ram because he jumped my string. after that I soured to the notion of a "Once in a life hunt" being short circuited. The Kudu never got closer than 80 Meters. or I would have given him a try. So, at 188 meters I popped him, and I am not sorry for it. The truth is I only took the bow to begin with was at the urging of both my son and my outfitter.
Great looking Kudu . Doesn't matter what you took it with.
I took both rifle and bow with me also.Its a long trip to have something happen to your bow and have no backup.I don't feel you need to explain.I took 6 animals on my trip and only 2 with my gun.I really didn't have a choice if I wanted a zebra as they weren't hitting water when I was there I get my kudu mount back next week.I guess I'll have t look the horns over
Mixed bag congrats on your successful Safari. Where in Africa did you hunt? If you don't mind Post some pics.
The third horn is cool. Thanks for posting.
