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Things like grip torque, limb twist, fletch contact, nock pinch, cam timing, cam synch, nock travel in relation to rest support resistance, all these things and more need to be considered when paper tuning.

Only VERY experienced archery pro's should conduct paper tuning with a bow owner. It's not something that can be done by a "do it yourselfer". That's where all the "paper tuning is a waste of time" guys show up. The guys who say that are just admitting they don't know how to paper tune. Not that you have to paper tune a bow, but it can be done, and it can be done to the point of not having to do any other adjustments to get same POI with BH's. But don't believe a guy who says his bow is perfectly tuned and yet does NOT shoot a clean hole in paper. Those guys are the guys we call "cyber experts". The ones with litterealy thousands of posts on forums like this. The ones who post several times a day and talk the talk. Be carefull of those guys, they probably don't even work in the archery business. And I would never take advise from a guy who does not work as an archery pro on a daily basis.

Sorry for the rant, this is one of my pet peeve subjects.

I would beg to differ that some of us lowly "do it yourselfers" can paper tune. We may not be able to get into the deep causes. But if moving a nock point down fixes a bad hole, I am happy. I have tried some of the simple fixes and had very good results. I have also checked some arrows that are in the "marginal" range on the spine chart. Paper tune gives me the indication that they are too marginal. I would rank that as a success.

Most ofthe time that also has me dead nutz with BH TO FP tuned also. Sometimes (rarely) I have a tweek to do there. But not often.

The link is correct, assuming of course that everything else is perfect. But again I say... not so much with a release and a a well timed bow.

I can paper tune with the best of them. But then, that's what I do. Lots of guys on this forum that can. Also lots of guys who can't/won't. Most of the good paper tuners I know of come from the north and east where winter bow setups require indoor tuning at 20 yards or less. Southern boys and western boys seem to have unlimited long range warm weather shooting oportunities to BH and walkback tune.

I agree with most of what jbarbour wrote, with the obvious exceptions of guys on this site who clearly know what their doing. But remember that those are but a few of the thousands of new bow buyers every year. Too many rookies out there trying to solve every problem by moving their rest around.

Most of the time though, if everything else is correct, a weak shaft will tear diagonally a bit with a release, not just sideways.

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

I'm tuned when I can keep 3 bare shaft and 3 fletched shafts in a 9" grop at 30 yards... and I shoot abare shaft every now and then when practicing. It really shows form mistakes. I can get close with paper tuning but my relase with fingers is not anywhere near consistant enough.

I was getting a tail left tear with my new Mathews Drenalin LD. Typically if I have trouble it's tail right, not left. I bought a Torquless grip and that helped. I still had a little tail left and the rest was as close to the riser as I wanted to go, got it set on 5/8". I had bullet tears with GT 75/95 shafts, 100 gr. tip Blazers and a wrap, but the FOC was a low 9 percent. I wasn't happy with the FOC. I couldn't get the tear perfect with a 125 tip, but FOC was better.

I tried a CX Maxima 350 with 4" feathers, wrap and 125 tip and it tuned perfectly; plus, the FOC is 12 percent with that combo. I'm happy with 12 percent FOC. The Maxima shouldn't have fixed the tear, since the spine is theortically weaker than what wouldn't work, but sometimes the opposite of what should work is the solution.

Anyone with good form and can read paper. I do not care for paper tuning because BH tuning is a more direct process that IMO yields a better result. I read too many posts by people who have "perfect bullet holes" in paper but acheive imperfect BH flight.

Now I go straight to FBBH/FP tune.

a perfect bullet hole is a little more critical to shoot. which is why when we helped people paper tune bows in our archery shop, we never tried to get them to tune for perfect bullet holes.

i will agree, that shooting form is absolutely critical for paper tuning. if you cant dupilcate the same shot everytime, then the time you paper tuned your bow on 3 or 4 bad shots will be wrong. i have seen 3 differant tears out of the same bow that was paper tuned by another person. you must paper tune your own bow.

that said paper tuning is only the begining. you must have your arrow tuned to the bow before you even start paper tuning. that in itself is a tricky job. most guys dont understand that you have to do all of this in steps.

my steps are. 1.tune bow to specs. 2.spin tune arrow, with field points and broadheads. 3.tune arrow to bow 4.paper tune. 5.sight in and walk back tune.

seems like this has worked for me the last 7 years. before then i had no clue what i was doing.lol.

That method works great for target shooting, but in your experience how well does that translate for folks who want to be able to shoot field points, judos, MBH's, FBBH's, etc. interchangeably (i.e. same point of impact)?

now if you want to shoot a 350gr 3d arrow out of a bow you tuned to shoot 425 gr broadhead and field tip arrow for hunting, then they wouldnt fly the same for the obvious reason. you would need to retune for that arrow.

this is the only year i have ever had exact point of impact from broadheads to field points. most years they are just slighly off. maybe only a 1/2 inch but still off. this year i upped my broadheads to 100 grains from 75 and bingo dead on impact for both broadheads and field points.

of course my observations and way of tuning my bow are only a suggestion. if your getting great accuracy doing what your doing, then by all means do it. whats most important is that your shooting where you aiming or better yet shooting where your looking..lol