I currently shoot 28" arrow with 29" DL I'm thinking going to 30" arrow
You might want a longer arrow to ensure that the broadhead clears the riser or in the case of a turkey heads even extends an inch or two beyond the bow hand.
On the other hand you may want a very short arrow because it is lighter and will be faster and have a flatter trajectory.
Just be sure to select the spine based on the arrow length and other appropriate factors.
I also agree with Purdue. You can choose arrow length first and adjust other variables to fine tune. I use a bow quiver and with many short ATA bows it doesn't make any sense to have arrows sticking out above or below the limbs. I choose a stiff shaft (FMJ 300), cut to the length I want, then adjust (add) point weight, if needed to fine tune. This gives the added advantage of heavier weight, stiffer spine and increased FOC. All advantages in increasing penetration potential. Speed is simply not a consideration with any modern compound bow, and arrow weights under 600 grs., unless you are seriously draw weight/length challenged. (less than about 60#, 26"). Even then, I wouldn't put too much emphasis on arrow speed.
Use an archery software program and you will see how important arrow length is, 1/2" either way can make a big difference.
Now I understand from some other posts that that may not be true for Bowtech. But I prefer to shoot a higher quality bow than that. LOL
Most arrow selection charts have five horizontal squares in each spine at a given weight range. Stay out of the weakest box of the five to start with and it will not be too stiff. The shaft can be cut from there a half inch at a time if a weak spine reaction shows up. To this day, I have not seen an over-spined arrow not be able to tune. Not unless the shooter has some horrific hand torque that "counters" what would normally show up as a weak spine affect.
I need a .300 spine to have my broadhead in front of my riser. They are not available in stores just online.. So I wanted to know how common a 30" arrow actually is...
For every 100 dozen arrows I build and sell, at least 75 - 80 of them are shorter than the persons draw length. Containment drop aways and WB rests have allowed shooters to shorten their arrows without safety concerns.
My personal hunting arrows are at least as long as my DL, or longer.
It's not necessary from a safety point of view with most rests to have the BH in front of the riser. But there's nothing wrong with it either. And with apologies, I will respond to Spike Bull.
Yes I know what I want my setup to look like ahead of time, and it's possible to get that by manipulating other variables. First, I won't shoot a real short bow. I want my arrows within the dimensions of the bow when in the bow quiver. Also, I like heavier arrows and with today's components, it's impossible to get one too heavy without serious effort. As for tuning BHs, I match them to shafts BEFORE fletching. Once I have a combination that works, care during assembly almost guarantees they will all fly the same. In the rare instance they don't, they get a FP.
I used to shoot 25 1/2" shafts, but by increasing length by an inch and going from 100gr tips to 125 gr, I was able to shoot a stiffer spined shaft. These changes significantly increased my finished arrow weight. Maybe not a big deal for someone with a long D/L, but can make a big difference with those with a short D/L.
Right now my bow is 28.5 and a 29" arrow puts me in my comfort zone WRT sharp blades and my bow hand. I have arrows from 29" to 30" mix and match sometimes, but all are about as stiff as you can get with standard shafts, usually needed with shafts on the longer side, 125 heads and 70lb draw. All shoot fine and tune.
If you want to shoot arrows on the long side figure on shooting shafts on the stiffer side. As with many things, stiffer is usually better....
