The last two years I've hunted the same unit in NM more or less DIY. The first year was spent getting to know the unit (and I did manage to get into elk almost everyday, with a number of those opportunities being elk in bow range) and the second year I spent more or less refining the knowledge from the first year. I'm at a point where I feel we have the elk figured out in a few areas.
That being said, one of the things that I've continued to struggle with is when to make a move and when to hold off. I've had elk bugling that have gone quiet and rather than push the issue, my thought has been I'm fairly certain I didn't spook them and they should be here later, so back out and save it for the evening or next morning at times. Obviously at some point something has to give. How do you determine when it's that time?
When you decide to make a move, what dictates how fast you move in? I've moved a bit too quick plenty of times and have either been busted by elk that I was chasing or elk that I didn't see. Too slow and you may never catch up to them. Too quick and you bump them. How do you pace yourself?
Obviously I'm talking about elk that you can hear but can't see. I'm curious to hear how some of you approach this.
Terry
elkmtngear's Link
If I know the direction they are heading, and I can get on them quickly with available light and a good wind, I will certainly "push the issue". If I'm lacking in any of those variables, I will "drop back and punt", and try to get in a better situation the next day.
The last thing I want to do is blow herds of elk out of the drainages I hunt. Elk numbers and encounters are historically pretty limited on a 10 day hunt.
Best of Luck, Jeff (Bowsite Sponsor)
1.) Wind 2.) Wind 3.). Wind
Seriously, wind is that important. Whether they're already nervous, as well as available cover, are a couple other things I'll take into consideration.
You can bet the farm, if the bull wants to play, and conditions are right, I'm going all in!
1. Calling while moving in on a bull. The bull (and cows if present) almost always shut up and/or move away or maintain the same separation distance as they hear you approach while calling. Get in close first, or have someone stay back and call enough to keep the bull bugling while you move in silently for a shot, or get in closer to call.
2. Trying to call in a herd bull with cow calls. Though it sometimes works on smaller bulls or smaller groups of elk, it almost never works near the main herd/herd bull (though you can call in satellites for sure in the right circumstances). If you do manage to get in close to the main herd, aggressive bull sounds are the way to go. The herd bull and most of the other elk in the herd pay little attention to cow calling because there are so many elk all around, and the herd bull is not concerned with other cows (which definitely are on the fringes of the main herd along with satellites and spikes).
The trick though is figuring out what type of bull you hear, and that can be tough sometimes.
Good luck!
If you back out, one of two things is going to happen:
1) You're going to return to the area and the elk will be gone. It could be that other hunters pushed them out, or that the bull simply left the area. 2) The bull will still be there, and you'll still be facing the exact situation you backed out of. If the bull hung up before, he'll probably hang up again. What to do now?....back out again?
If I know the general location of a bull I want to shoot the only thing that makes me want to get farther from him is sketchy wind currents. Save bad winds, my goal as a bowhunter is always to get CLOSER....never farther away.
In general though I feel most new elk hunters, especially guys from east use to whitetails, need to be 10 times as aggressive.
I know I was way to timid at first, they are not whitetails there are far less nervous.
But I will especially +1 alce's comment from top to bottom especially this comment:
"The trick though is figuring out what type of bull you hear, and that can be tough sometimes."
I think this is one of the most important aspects of hunting bulls and it is almost impossible to explain. You have to have a lot of bull encounters to know what kind of bull you are dealing with.
As far as being aggressive, all my kills have been from being very aggressive and getting in front of the bull. I move toward the bull at a run to close the distance, a fast walk when I think he is with 100 yards and a snails pace when I think I am about to see him or his cows.
If you are behind a walking elk, it depends on the situation, but I typically let him go. Your odds of not only catching him, but getting in front of him are really low. That said, it depends on the situation.
Learn what a lip bawl bugle sounds like. That bugle usually means he has cows. When a bull has cows, he will be the last one in line so remember, however far away you think the bull is, the cows will be alert and probably 20-30 yards closer, maybe more, maybe less.
And as has been stated WIND, WIND, WIND!!!!! You will NEVER beat it and you will NEVER beat an elks nose!
I tend to layoff on the calls after the elk have been located to try and keep my presence a secret. Most guys I know or have read about that kill big elk tend to say the same thing -- you're unlikely to kill a herd bull calling him in and the best way is to sneak in and wait for him to make a mistake (and I've seen this technique work firsthand). I've had cows and small Bulls in range the last couple of years but was holding off for something bigger.
It's a tricky thing moving in on elk you can't see, especially when they start herding up cows. It's that blend of controlled aggression that yoj need to find a balance of. What I've learned is that it's not easy, and some of the best in the business struggle with it as well at times! But keep the advice coming, I like hearing everyone's perspectives!
Seems to me most rookies aren't aggressive enough when further out than say 100 yds.
Every scenario is different- draw unit with target rich environment, OTC with maybe one shot opportunity in a week...then there is the terrain variations. i don't think anyone can make a blanket statement on what is best in every scenario. in fact i see some friends rigid in their strategy...and thats bad, you have to be flexible. Learning elk tendencies..and knowing the specifics about your area including hunter pressure- a bigge- will dictate my strategy.
Pretty vague..but hope that helps
BINGO!!! Beendare just gave you the secret to elk hunting. It's kind of the problem with all these threads. We all give advice based on what we have done, but every elk season I find myself doing things that work that I have never heard of. There are exceptions to every rule. It is good to have a baseline as to what to do, but don't get caught in a fixed strategy. Be willing to change tactics to fit the situation. If you never heard of someone doing what you are about to do...GREAT! Maybe that is why it will work, but it also might be the only time in your hunting career that it works.
Elk are not a math problem. You can't just plug in tactics and solve for x ...although sometimes you can.
Truer words have never been spoken. People will post what has worked for them in the past. That's why every Bowsite "What would you do" thread will have a multitude of answers. Example is alse recommending not to use cow calls and relying mostly on aggressive bull calls. I guarantee, Bigdan would recommend the same thing. I, on the other hand, have had great success relying mostly on mews and young bull squeals. Neither is wrong...both are right. However, what works today may or may not work tomorrow.
"It is good to have a baseline as to what to do, but don't get caught in a fixed strategy. Be willing to change tactics to fit the situation."
Every elk hunter would be wise to follow those words of advice as well. We all have a tendency to fall into the trap of wanting to use the exact same strategy that has brought us success in the past. Nothing wrong with that, unless we become prisoners of the past. Every elk is different, and every elk encounter is different as well. Try what's worked in the past at first, but don't hesitate to change if that doesn't work. Don't be afraid to think outside the box. There is nothing I enjoy more than calling bulls in close for that in-your-face experience. However, I also know that conditions aren't always ideal for that, so I adjust what I "want" to do, to what I "need" to do. In other words, BE FLEXIBLE! I've killed 1/4 of my elk out of a treestand. Lou (Jaquomo) has had great success using a decoy hat. Elk are going to be elk. You have to adjust to them, not the other way around.
I know it's a worn out statement, but it is so true...you are a part-time hunter trying to kill a full-time elk. Don't think that just because you haven't closed the deal, you're doing everything wrong. Hell, I've been bowhunting elk for 30yrs, with a couple dozen elk under my belt, and there isn't a year that goes by I don't ask myself "What the heck were you thinking?"...and "I've been doing this HOW LONG!"
Learn from your mistakes and keep plugging along. Some just have to "pay their dues" a little longer than others. Learn from your mistakes, and sooner rather than later, we'll be looking at a "hero" pic of you on the elk meatpole. Good luck!
Elk hunting is just like a game of chess, you have to secretly be aggressive and always on the offensive, moving and luring your adversary into a trap.
Like others have said, you have to plan an attack based on whats in front of you whether you can see them or not, opponents are rarely the same but generally have the same tendencies. The more you are around elk the more you will know their tendencies and the more successful you will be.
It's also important not to stress out when a stalk doesn't work, you have to just put it in the back of your mind and move on, after time it becomes your gut hunch or feeling which you should never disregard.
