My recurve is 53#, longbows are 57#. I shoot Gold Tip 3555s with weight tubes, 125 grain 3 blade heads, Muzzy and VPA. My total arrow weight is around 450.
If I was shooting exclusively out of trees, downward at known distances, I'd take my arrow weight up because trajectory is a less critical component. But shooting on the ground at unknown distances where distance judging is purely instinctive, I've settled on this combination as the best compromise between accuracy, trajectory, and killing power (for me - not necessarily for anyone else).
I shot a 50 lb. recurve, 525 gr, carbon arrow with a 125 gr. Magnus Buzz Cut on the front. I shot clean through him at about 15 yards.
I understand what you are saying about the distance thing. I had an arrow go under a moose that was a bit farther than I thought he was.
But I still believe in penetration, and heavy arrows are where you get that. It's part of the game.
Good luck on your upcoming hunt.
TBB
My bows have been a variety (tried to kill an elk with every bow I have!) with draw weights from 55# to 70#. I have used arrows ranging in weight from 425 grains up to 650+ grains. I have killed elk with two-blade double bevel (zwicky & magnus, sto), two-blade single bevels (grizzly & eclipse), 4-blades (zwicky, magnus, steel force & old bears), lots of different 3-blades (snuffers, wensels & vpa's).
I have not shot an elk from a treestand, yet. All of my hunting has been from the ground on elk.
All of these setups will work.
Observations:
I have had a number of complete pass-thru's with 425 grain arrows and snuffers - where the arrow actually blows through and sticks in the ground on the other side!
Seem to get really good blood with the 3-blade. Have shot a few elk with big snuffers a little far back (one right in front of the back leg!) that I still recovered with a blood trail all the way to the dead elk. Have shot two bulls in the shoulder and did not penetrate the shoulder, though. I shot the moose with a 450-grain arrow and a snuffer and sunk it to the fletchings.
I have lost two elk that I shot with 2-blade double bevel heads that were hit in the ribs and the arrow sunk to the fletching. Minimal blood on one and one shot slipped along the outside of the ribs on a hard angle and the broadhead ended up between the ribs and the front shoulder.
I have not seen that the heavier arrows give more penetration on elk (or deer for that matter). Killed a couple of elk with 650+ grain arrows with a 3 blade and 2 blade single bevel. Have not lost one with the heavy setups, but have only shot two times with them at elk. I shot my bison with a heavy arrow (700 grains) and 2-blade magnus and had a complete pass-thru the lungs with the arrow sticking in the ground 20 yards on the other side - he did not go very far.
Have not hit a big bone with a heavy arrow and single bevel head yet so don't know if it will break a shoulder blade. I tend to think that it will, though. My arrow setup for really big critters (bison, Asian buffalo, musk ox, etc) will be a 750+ grain arrow with a big single bevel broadhead on it.
I have used bows from 40 to 55 pounds to shoot deer and prefer a bow over 60 for elk.
The most important take-aways:
Have an arrow set up that flies perfectly off your bow - helps to hit what you are shooting at and also makes a big difference on penetration.
A big 3-blade puts more blood on the ground to be able to find what you hit. You just have to miss the big leg bone.
Good luck!
1st 55lbs@ 27'' recurve w/ 2117 tipped w/ a 125gr Snuffer. 25yrds hit mid-section of ribcage and was poking out the other side. about 525grs
2nd 61ls@ 27'' recurve, Vapor shaft tipped w/ a 160gr Snuffer. 35yrds again centered of the ribs. 6'' TO 8'' penetration. Recovered 2 days later. 420grs
3rd 65lbs@ 27'' recurve, FMG shaft tipped w/ a 160gr Ace. 30yrds trotting, hit the sweet pocket and the arrow was poking out the other side. 560grs
All 3 bulls weighed over 700lbs
My longbows and recurves all range from 53-57#. I used to shoot Bighorns (the Asbell-made ones) from 67-69# until we figured out we didn't need that much horsepower to kill elk, and a bow with a different limb design in the 50s seemed a lot more accurate to shoot with a tuned, balanced setup. I'll take increased accuracy any day. Plus, I can shoot these bows into advanced age with (hopefully) no problems.
IMO, the biggest obstacle for all trad bowhunters, regardless of draw weight, is the inability to tune to achieve perfect flight. In the 3-D shoots I attend, I see wobbly arrows more often than darts. That's with field points. I can't imagine how their broadheads fly.
I do agree about guys not tuning arrows to perfection. Seems I always hear "Good enough...". Guys are in such a big hurry these days to shoot their bows they don't spend the time trying different sit-ups. It's all about "just put some more weight up front, leave them full length and you'll be ok." Lol, hate seeing guys with 6" of arrow sticking out past their bows...
The other three of us were drilling the targets (it was an easy course) and we made a few gentle suggestions about tuning, to which he replied, a little miffed, "I work in the archery department at Bass Pro, so I set up bows all the time".
'Nuff said.
Maybe if I was shooting big, heavy three bladed Snuffers I'd use a slightly heavier shaft, but after seeing the penetration I got on a gobbler using VAP shafts and the DRT heads, I think I found a better shaft then my FMJ's. Over 26" of penetration on a strutting tom at 12 yards. Tell everyone he had a bigger beard but the DRT shaved it off...
