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But... (there's always a "but"). It does not have any functional load lifters.

I started looking at other packs with load lifters. I came up with an idea... Why not add some framing to make the load lifters functional?

Here are my efforts. It is just a PCV frame. The size is about 24" x 13". The load lifter straps just go over it. This was my first pass. The frame could also be a bit smaller.

It weighs less than a pound, cost nothing and makes the load lifters functional...

The X2 mod is extremely simple. Just make a 24" x 13" rectangle with 1/2" PVC pipe and 4 elbows. Put the PVC rectangle in the main part of the pack. Then, disconnect the load lifters and reroute over the top of the frame.

You can make the frame taller or shorter depending on how tall you are. You could probably reduce the width an inch or two also. This was just my first pass.

And you don't need to glue the PVC together. Just assemble without glue. Then, it is easier to change the size of the rectangle. And you also just take the rectangle apart, carry it in the pack, and assemble it after you kill the elk.

James

I didn't understand either. But I think I do now.

By using the load lifters, you take the weight off of your shoulders and transfers that weight to your hips. To carry heavy loads, your hips should be doing most of the work.

The attached link has a good explanation. You'll see that the ideal angle is 45 degrees pointing up. With the X2, the attachment to the X2 is below the shoulders. So the X2 load lifters are really just load stabilizers. If you add the PCV frame, you can get the desired angle on the straps.

The ET pack is different in that it has a rifle pocket next to the aluminum frame plus a very short aluminum frame. The design puts the lifter strap on the side of the top corner and that ends up pulling the shoulder strap to the side rather than up and back. A really dumb design and makes me wonder weather they even tried the pack under load.

I am tall and the shoulder straps are a little short for me too boot.

I think that I could make the pvc frame work but I would have to sew new attachements closer to center of the pack. I think the photo shows what I am talking about.

Again, I like your simple design and hope others have ideas for this problem too.

I wrapped electrical tape around mine at all the strap/cinch contact points.

Solution for a higher frame....

To get the upper portion of the PVC a bit away from the back of your head why couldn't you get 2 - 22 degree elbows and place them at the height about level with the top of your shoulders - then extend the frame another 6 inches or so???? Or would that make it to "top heavy"

Also same question as caribou77 - how would it handle strapping down a big load?

I haven't tried it yet but I bet it will be fine. Most of the stress is down, inline with the PVC. Tubing can take a tremendous amount of force in that direction. Think about a straw standing upright.

As for squeaking, mine never was too bad. I did change the strap configuration as suggested by Eberlestock. Other folks have removed the orange frame and wrapped it in hockey tape. The tape seems to stop all the squeaking.

I made the bracket taller on the one I did for Scoot and if I did mine over I would make it a little taller.

I used the X2 and load lifters this morning. I carried about 30 pounds of goose decoys in. And I added about 20 pound of goose on the way out.

The load lifters make it much more comfortable to carry heavy loads...

I'll let ya know what and if it works---

Thanks for the idea M-A

Good luck, Robb

Thanks again M-A

Good luck, Robb