Sitka Gear
Any tips on keeping meat?
Elk
Contributors to this thread:
Toby 28-Jul-15
Unit 9er 28-Jul-15
patdel 28-Jul-15
oldtimer 28-Jul-15
NvaGvUp 28-Jul-15
Jaquomo 28-Jul-15
Jaquomo 28-Jul-15
midwest 28-Jul-15
HDE 28-Jul-15
coelker 28-Jul-15
TD 28-Jul-15
elkmtngear 28-Jul-15
Elkhuntr 28-Jul-15
Start My Hunt 29-Jul-15
Start My Hunt 29-Jul-15
Darrell 29-Jul-15
Toby 29-Jul-15
britfan 29-Jul-15
britfan 29-Jul-15
Darrell 30-Jul-15
britfan 30-Jul-15
Backpack Hunter 30-Jul-15
Darrell 30-Jul-15
WFG in NM 30-Jul-15
From: Toby
28-Jul-15
If you don't have a freezer or generator, what do you do to keep meat from spoiling until you get home?any tips would be appreciated.

From: Unit 9er
28-Jul-15
Debone and ziplock bag it in camp. Into the cooler and on ice until you get home.

Should be no problem for 5 to 7 days.

From: patdel
28-Jul-15
I filled one of those big coolers with homemade block ice. U had 2 big ones I kept empty.

When you get your elk, get the hide off it and start breaking it down. I did the gutless method. Worked pretty good. You can hold a hot chunk of meat in your hand and actually feel it cooling off.

Get it in game bags and hanging in the shade. Start humping. When you get it to your coolers, put in a layer of ice, layer of meat. Try to keep meat off bottom of cooler so it isn't sitting in water.

If the meat is still warm, Dont close the cooler lid until it cools off.

Make sure you are draining off the water and adding ice as needed. Worked good for me for 5 days.

I know guys who have had it processed and frozen.

Nothing I tried slowed the flies and bees down. Wyoming flies must be attracted to pepper and chili powder.

From: oldtimer
28-Jul-15
After harvesting your game animal skin it and quarter it asap and hang it in the shade and cool it out. Make sure you cover the meat with a good game bag to keep flys from laying eggs. Once it is cool it will keep till you get home. We have kept it out for a week in Sept. Make sure you check for fly eggs every day, if any cut them out or they will hatch and the larva will be in your meat.

From: NvaGvUp
28-Jul-15
Buy a wood pallet. You can get one for just a few bucks.

Place a canvas tarp on the pallet, add 8-12 blocks of ice, then lay your elk quarters (in game bags) on the ice.

Put another canvas tarp over the quarters, then wrap all of it with two old sleeping bags.

If you have a shell on your truck, crack open the side windows and the back window just enough to vent the shell.

Turn the quarters every 6 or so hours and add more blocks of ice as needed. You will be AMAZED how cold this keeps your meat!

I learned this from a guy who owned a family meat market in the southern end of the SF Peninsula and swear by the results!

I used this method to haul a HUGE bull across the Mojave desert and up the CA central valley with temperatures in the mid-'90's, yet when I got to the butcher, the quarters were still ice cold!

From: Jaquomo
28-Jul-15
Sleeping bags, definitely.

From: Jaquomo
28-Jul-15
Sleeping bags, definitely.

From: midwest
28-Jul-15
Boned and cooled down. Throw in a cooler and cover with ice. Drain and add as needed.

And I don't give a damn if it sits in water or not. As long as it's ice cold water, it doesn't hurt a thing. I've kept game meat like this for a couple of weeks until I had time to get to it.

From: HDE
28-Jul-15
If you feel compelled to put it on ice, don't do it until the meat is uniformly cooled all the way through for large chunks (the common theme I am seeing is 'boned and cooled')

Believe it or not, ice can actually act as an insulator.

From: coelker
28-Jul-15
I always take it to a coller/packer asap. Most of the time they will just hold your meat. When they do it gets nice and cold then put it in big coolers for the ride home!

From: TD
28-Jul-15
Deboned and hanging in the shade. The more bags the better so the meat is in smaller "clumps". "Stir" the clumps now and then the first few hours so you don't have one piece of meat buried in the middle of the bag still warm.

If possible get the bags hanging in a low spot, gulch, drainage, etc. cooler air sinks to these low spots, normally much better shade as well. Watch the shade.... it moves as the sun moves. Those bottoms many times have a creek or a spring, if you can get some water on the outside of the bags evaporation helps cool them even more.

Surprising really how long you can hang meat in warmer temps if it's cooled fast and well hun.... hang it well.... should be fine till it's packed out and on ice ASAP. On ice you're home free.

No way am I using my WM Badger bag on a bloody ol elk! =D

From: elkmtngear
28-Jul-15
I've gone up to 3 days with bone in quarters and the rest of the meat hung up in the shade. Never had spoilage, even with daytime temps in the mid 70s.

I opt for the "no cooler" method: I transport for two days with the whole thing wrapped in an old heavy double sleeping bag, with dry ice on top. It all fits nicely with my other gear under my tonneau cover.

Best of Luck, Jeff

From: Elkhuntr
28-Jul-15
the tarp and block ice works wonders. instead of sleeping bags, I use moving blankets. meat will keep just fine this way.

29-Jul-15
To keep the meat from sitting in water from the melting ice, try freezing some gallon size milk jugs with water before you leave. We usually have a full cooler of these with some dry ice and tape it shut. Don't open it until you need it and the jugs will still be frozen solid.

The most important thing is to get the meat hanging high in a tree, especially if there are carnivores around, and in a cool spot as fast as you can without the hide on and cover with some game bags to keep the bugs away. As long as there is good circulation around the quarters, they will cool off pretty quickly by morning.

Lou, do you sleep with one of the hind quarters at night to keep you warm? I may have to try that.

Mike

29-Jul-15
Just re-read the post and saw the part "until you get home". Same applies, pack the meat in a sleeping bag or moving tarp as suggested above with the jugs of ice and you should not have a problem. The blocks of "Blue Ice" also work really well and do not melt as fast.

Mike

From: Darrell
29-Jul-15
I used to worry about the meat but we have never had a problem. I have only killed elk in NM and several of them have been in low country where it was close to 90 degrees. If we kill in the evening, we simply hang the quarters or boned out sections in game bags for the night. By morning they are chilled well and we put them in ice chests. I like to keep the meat off the bottom so it isn't sitting in water but that isn't always possible and probably doesn't matter.

We have used frozen water bottles and ice bought from the store. Whatever you have frozen works great. Just keep enough ice in the chest to keep things cold and you are great.

If we kill in the morning and its really hot, we will go ahead and break it down more and get it on ice immediately. If we have good shade and its below 75 or so, we will still let it air chill as we have found just allowing the body heat to dissipate first saves lots of ice.

We always do the gutless method and that in itself does a lot for cooling down the meat.

I'm not saying don't do it right. However, I am saying, don't stress about it. It isn't near as hard as many people make it out to be.

From: Toby
29-Jul-15
Great information thanks for all the help.

From: britfan
29-Jul-15
First 24 hours is crucial to get it cooled down so it does not sour. Remove the hide and hang in the shade. Cheese cloth game bags r good because they let out a lot of heat. Once it is cooled inside you have a few days before it starts to deteriorate on the outside. Flies will lay eggs on the outside of the meat but the eggs and/or larvae are very easy to remove. Getting the outside dry ( i.e. dried skin ) is great in keeping the meat from sliming up. Just my 2 cents.

From: britfan
29-Jul-15
P.S. If you have some plastic wrap cover the tenderloin and it won't darken on you from oxidation.

From: Darrell
30-Jul-15
britfan,

If the tenderloin hits the fire the first night, it won't darken either. :)

From: britfan
30-Jul-15
Hey Darrell I see a lot of photos of hunters boning out elk the gutless method but Haven't noticed any high flank openings to remove the tenderloins. Just my take on it. Have yet to bone out in the field always haul out quarters into the cooler.

30-Jul-15
Easy to pull the tenderloins out via the gutless method. I'm not sure why a person would leave them, or how not boning it out would help in removing them.

From: Darrell
30-Jul-15
brifan,

We always get the tenderloins last. They are a little bit of trouble but well worth it. Once the quarters are off the carcass is easy to move around so opening it up behind the last rib and then sliding a boning knife between the tenderloin and the spine isn't bad.

Sometimes if we want to see what kind of damage the broadhead did or do an autopsy of sorts we will go ahead and gut it after having everything except the Tloins out. Then they are easy to get. However, usually by that point we just want to get back to camp so its pretty rare for us to do an autopsy anymore. I've seen enough scrambled lung from old style snuffers in my day. I know what it looks like. :)

From: WFG in NM
30-Jul-15
Lots of good advice here. One thing, if you hiked 5 miles back and aren't prepared to take care of an elk, don't kill one.

Darrell, I do the same.

Have a blast, --Bill

  • Sitka Gear