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Elk Setup Help
Elk
Contributors to this thread:
Will 16-Aug-16
N-idaho 16-Aug-16
Will 16-Aug-16
ElkNut1 16-Aug-16
Will 16-Aug-16
Teeton 16-Aug-16
huntabsarokee 16-Aug-16
ElkNut1 16-Aug-16
N-idaho 17-Aug-16
ohiohunter 17-Aug-16
Mark Watkins 17-Aug-16
tradmt 17-Aug-16
Will 18-Aug-16
From: Will
16-Aug-16
Just got a new Hoyt Defiant 34. Currently set at 65#. I have a 31" DL and my Easton Axis 300's are weighing in at just over 500 grains. I also have about 20 Easton Axis 340's that I would like to use.

At 65#'s shooting ST's with the 340's I am getting a little movement with BH's. Switched to the 300's and I am getting great BH flight.

KE is coming in around 76. Seems a little unnecessarily high.

FPS with the 340's was 267 and with the 300's was 262

What does anyone think about dropping the poundage a little and then hopefully being able to use the 340's.

Shooting both ST's and Stingers and both are pretty consistent but as I said with the 340's I am getting a little movement.

TIA.

Sept 10th cant come soon enough.

From: N-idaho
16-Aug-16
why would you drop your poundage, 340 are spined just fine for 65 and 70 pounds the 300 are probably over spined.as far as movement what exactly you talking about.

From: Will
16-Aug-16
BH's not flying right along with FP's.

From: ElkNut1
16-Aug-16
Having a 31" draw length I'd personally feel more comfortable with the 300 spine arrow. It seems that's where your confidence is, that's half the battle right there!

ElkNut1

From: Will
16-Aug-16
Elknut.

Here is the chart I was using.

http://guide.sportsmansguide.com/ballistic-chart/easton/51_hunt-sel-chart.pdf

looks like I fall right into the K or L group if I keep my poundage at 65. Looks to be right on the line. If I drop back to low 60's I will be OK with the 340's.

From: Teeton
16-Aug-16
If ur getting good B-H flight with the 300's "don't" touch a thing. That is what you want and you got it.

Ed

16-Aug-16
What are the weight of BH? If you really need to shoot the 340s maybe you can drop BH weight. Just a thought.

From: ElkNut1
16-Aug-16
Will, I understand what you're showing there, charts are merely guidelines or starting points on where you May need to be with your arrows. You want to go with what you're bow tunes & flies well with, in your case at 65# .300 spine is best. No doubt if you dropped to 60# the 340 spine would most likely shoot & tune well too but so would the 300 spine at 60# ---

ElkNut1

From: N-idaho
17-Aug-16
there used to be a tuning manual from Easton that was very informative it covered micro tuning of field tips and broadheads, If it is still available it would help you fix your problems. I would look for minor fletching contact it can cause the problem you are having.

From: ohiohunter
17-Aug-16
Give your bow a half turn and shoot it w/ the 340's, see what you think. Its really that easy.

From: Mark Watkins
17-Aug-16
+2 Teeton.....don't overthink this....

Mark

From: tradmt
17-Aug-16
You could probably drop weight and have use of both the 340 and the 300. A 40# compound would be strong medicine for an elk, I wonder how many people have killed elk with 50# straight limb longbows?

From: Will
18-Aug-16
tradmt

Originally I didnt quite get your comment.

I took your advice and backed of a 1-2#.

After doing so I now see that at 35-55 yeards I am only getting the slightest elevation difference. If any considering my shooting skills at 45-55. For hunting purposes, at 55 yds I could easily shoot either.

Now to test with BH's but it looks like you might have saved me from buying a another dozen shafts and now I have plenty for years to come.

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