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I am shooting 29" 300 spine gold tip kinetics with 125gr fixed blades.

Bow one, i have been messing around with this bow for the past few months with out tuning success and i can not figure it out. The bow is in spec, the cam, and the idler wheel have been replaced as the bearings were bad. I thought the riser was twisted but when sent back to mathews they said it was fine. No matter where the rest is located, i have a 1" tail left paper tear. There have been some moments when i will get it tuned but the next day or the next arrow the tear is back. I decided to try broadhead tuning. No luck. The broadheads will hit 6" to the right of field tips. no matter where the rest is located, i have the same result. Out of many shots and many nights messing with this bow, my frustration rises. I refletch all of my arrows after floating each to find the spine side to make sure they are all fletched the same. Start shooting the bow again, and one day it shoots o.k. the next it shoots wild again. I'm starting to get a bad shooting complex thinking i am really bad so i decide to go to my backup bow and try to get that one shooting.

SO i sit bow one down and build up bow two. Set the rest, and idler wheel to where i normally need them to be to shoot straight. First shot out of this bow bullet hole. Go to broadhead tune, all arrows start grouping and field tips are hitting the exact same spot as broadheads.. SOOO happy with the results of this bow and to realize it may not be 100% me and there might be something else wrong with bow one.

What else can i check on bow one, and what could possibly be wrong with it? I am lost other than maybe there is something wrong with the limbs and or riser? Thoughts? Where should i start looking?

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Cam lean is identical.

Same string sets? Not sure what you mean, but bow one has a new string from february with easily 1000 shots.. bow two has old strings

"Sell bow 1." I'd feel too guilty passing it on to someone else...

Maybe the nock is getting pinched?

Frustration really mounts if you get a bit tired also, then canting the grip, maybe?

Lastly, is the poundage the same on both with the brace height in spec.? I'm not positive, but can't the limbs be a bit tired if the bearings had to be replaced?

Good luck to you

The nock seems like it has room between the loop knots. i thought the same but doesn't appear to be a problem there..

Yes, frustration builds and possibly could be me, but i shoot bow two very accurately with no problems. I don't want it to be me and i am looking for something else for it to be. But i really do not think it is me though.. i've tried physically torquiing the bow i've tried differenet releases, different arrows, adjusting cam lean, moving the rest, different shooting positions, and can not get anything other than that tear. Also when most broadheads leave the bow, the arrows tend to turn sideways in flight. If i move the rest out to about 14/16th then some arrows will fly straight but still hit to the right of field tips.

Poundage and specs are the same between to the two bows

Not sure if limbs get tired or not? I thought they would not fatigue?

thannks so far

What rests are on them? Very well could be getting some contact on the one you're having trouble with. Timing off on a drop away, etc. Put some lipstick on the vane edges and see if they're hitting somewhere.

When you checked the lean, did you use a bare shaft on it or just eyeball it? I like to check it at full draw on a draw board if possible as well. You may not have a cracked limb, but twisted limbs are a possibility, especially if they've worn out bearings before.

i have nap apache rests on both bows.. I'll try the lipstick trick tonight and have tried before but didn't see any problems there. But i'll try again.

I used a bare shaft. I haven't been able to check it at full draw. I have tuned the cam lean to look like / and like | and like \ resulting in no change. This is when i "quit" messing with this bow. I can't imagine this would not change the outcome of the tune...

thanks

i have been having this problem for long time with this bow.. i originally sent back to mathews, i thought the riser was twisted. They said the riser was fine, replaced the roller guard and the idler wheel. I continued to shoot with no success. I then found the cam bearings are bad had it replaced with no success.

I've been trying to do anything to get it to shoot with no luck...

some bow shops here are good but imo, not great.. i'll keep looking for something i guess...

Anyway to test for twisted limbs?

any other thoughts?

I'd get rid of the #1 bow. Life is too short to be messing with a 10 year year old cranky compound.

If you want to send me a PM I'll put you in touch with my oldest brother in central WI. He has my LX that shot everything to one POI. His shoulder got bad at age 74 and he shoots a crossbow now. I don't remember if it a 28.5" or 29" cam and 60-70# RH. He is planning to get retire the vertical bow.

thanks kurt... i'm going to be getting a new bow next year. I want to try to get them both shooting before i sell them though. I would feel bad for passing along junk that doesn't shoot..

I'd normally agree but man, #2 bow shoots and groups consistently.

it will be a parts bow now i guess....

I'll pull the limbs off and see if i can see anything... thanks fulldraw...

mathews service has been kind of crappy through this endeavor.. and places i take it to say they are not sure what to do with it since it has already been sent back to mathews once.. lifetime warranty is nice, but looks like i have to find the problem for them and point it out..

TBH

what a pain...

The cause specifically may be cam lean, somewhere during the power stroke.........or inconsistent limb deflection. Cam lean is a generalized term for how forces are applied to an arrow during the power stroke as the arrow leaves the bow. It is not simply how the cam looks at static rest or full draw.

The general band aid fix is to shoot a stiff arrow and helical fleching. And, make sure your D-loop is exactly the same between bows.

Cambow: Unfortunately, i am already doing the "band aid" fix. I shoot a 300 spine 29" arrow with 125 grain heads and 4" helical vanes.

I'll do some of the things above and see what happens..

I do not know of any way to check the bearings under load. With mine they seemed fine with the bow in a press. The bow was then sent in, new bearings installed and the bow was fixed. See if a dealer will exchange the cams for a few shots and see if you can tune the bow. Like yours, mine was impossible to tune with the bad bearing and tuned in a few shots with new bearings.

That seemingly minor detail can result in some surprisingly important results.

Any significant differences in nock tigtness between the two bows?

Buffalo1. I agree man, and i am actually looking to pick up a new bow soon. I have two im currently looking at on AT. However, i don't want to sell the one that is not working correctly to someone else then they have to deal with the problem. doesn't seem right to me.

Thanks for all the help so far... doesn't seem like there is an "easy" answer i was hoping for.. I'm going to mess with it some after the season and if i can find anything, i'll dismantle and keep the roller guard, idler, and cam as some some parts.... (not sure what else to do with it?)

This issue was most common in the Drenalin, but the older bows occasionally would also need swapped.