plot saver
Whitetail Deer
Want to plant some eagle seed beans and want to protect them until there big enough to withstand grazing. I am planting about 1.5 acres and was thinking about using the plot saver that is sold thru Cabela's has anybody used this product with good results.
I've never tried the plot saver but I have had very good luck with electric fencing for quite a few years. There should be plenty of info about it on the deer builder site.
We used plotsaver a couple years. It did well, but to help it be a deterrent, its good to leave enough for them to eat outside of the plotsaver somewhere close by. The fawns seemed to be the only ones that didnt stay out.
I like the thought of the electric fence besides the initial cost and my luck somebody would steal it.
Mix blood meal with mineral oil and mix in solution with warm water.....
spray in a 30 foot barrier around the field edges...and whoolaaaaaaaaa your own deer deterrent. It should give one 6 weeks residual.
And what is the formula and where do you get blood meal ? Did your mama warn you that teasing is not nice ?
I'm also curious about this mixture. Do you spray it on the plot to deter them from eating (is the taste once they eat it the deterrent)? Or does it act like a barrier like the plot saver? I'm really wanting something for my soybeans as its the first time trying them and I want to do them right. And no, I don't have the money this year for the electric fence.
It acts as a barrier...heck if you want to try a simple method, just go to your local feed mill and buy some blood meal. A 50 pound bag goes for around $30 or so and it would last you a few years perhaps. You could just sprinkle the straight blood meal on the ground and cover about a 30 foot barrier all along a field edge.
But by mixing some vegetable/mineral oil with water and blood meal in liquid solution and applied to early growth plants, it adds added protection. If one gets tons of rains, then they effective duration would be reduced. You could also use some liquid soap or other form of sticker spreader to help the blood meal solution "stick". I'd use around 1/2 oz per gallon of water and add a couple oz of blood meal...note that the factors that effect how much blood meal you use include your spray rate per acre and water temperature.
Yes, i throw a lot of info out here on this site but note i also am writing a book and much of this info can be found in said book...
My book covers hidden secrets in the hunting industry, and everything from soil to mouth. Everything from deer nutrition 101 to how soils affect agronomics and nutrition.
Well, let us know when it is up for sale.
I'll give that mix a try. I didn't want to use plot saver as I haven't heard many positive reviews. Looked at other things like human hair, urine on rags, smelly laundry detergent and milorganite. The milorganite one still intrigues me and may also get a shot.
I co- worker loves his. Electric fences are high maintenance and deer often tear them down when the get shocked. He shock might keep some from coming near once you take the fence down.
PLANTSKYDD had been around for 30 years and if someone wants me to use a name brand product to try that ive used with some success, use that and connect the dots some when you reread my above recommendations...
Pat and T - roy, I remember the thread where you guys were discussing the electric fence option and you both really liking it...seems like it was early on in both of you using it. (If memory serves me correctly!) do you still like the fencing and are you going to use it again this year?
Mark
X2 Pat. The biggest problem that I have is with my plot down on the river. If we get a big turd floater, the river comes up pretty quickly & wipes part of the fence out once in a while.
The solar power fencers great & are more carefree, however, I also use a couple of battery powered ones as well. (marine batteries) They seem to have a little more snap to them which is nice if you have a bigger plot with more feet of wire. Also, one charge on them would last most of the season.
Last year I had some issues getting a good ground due to the drought here. I took a 5gal. bucket full of water & drilled a tiny hole in the bottom of it & set it next to the ground rod. I had to refill the bucket a few times but that solved the problem.
IMHO Eagle Brand forage soybeans do not need protection unless you have EXTREMELY high deer density and no other food sources. I do recommend you hold off planting until you get at least 10 heating units per day (High 80/low 50 = 130 x .5 = 65, minus 50 gets you 15 heating units that day. SO days with highs in 70s and lows in 50s (or warmer) plus good soil moisture planted .5 - 1 inch and you will do well.
Kurchak, I agree Eagle Brand beans are quite resilient but it depends on the size of your plot. I planted an acre last year and the beans kept coming back after being chewed down and even to the extent that they got good pods on them but I am definitely going to try the Plot Saver this year at least for the first 4 or 5 weeks until they get well established. Note the utilization cage in the attached photo.
Eagle beans are more resilient than things like lablab, and the various cowpeas because of their lower sugar content. But then again, it depends if your planting big fellow, large lad or northern managers mix. The vining type properties of N.M.M has seen some earlier consumption, at least in my area.
I'm not interested in growing beans for forage for the deer. Same for my corn plots. There are corn & soybean fields all around me so there is plenty of forage for them. I am solely growing beans & corn so they can produce pods & ears for the deer in the fall/winter.
Oh yeah, & for a good food plot to hunt over too.
http://youtu.be/S_ySzNEuuKc
i'm going to try this, this year....
I want to feed the deer in the summer. If the deer come down off the mountain and feed out in Farmers fields they will be shot on site 24 hours a day. Where I currently live has more poachers per square inch than any area I have ever seen. I put in Eagle forage beans on my property with no road access and cannot be seen from the roads. This keeps 30-40 deer alive through the summer. My current plot program includes cool season annuals, warm season annuals (Beans), and cool season perenials. Here, in most years july and august are the lean times, and when most antlered deer are killed (illegally). If your goal is dry beans in the pod in NOV-JAN the something like http://www.realworldwildlifeseed.com/soybean.html would better meet your objectives
I feel i need to chime in here as i am not a PRODUCT seller. Environment, planting date, weather, and soil types all come into play with shattering of soybeans. Deer are also grazers and their genetics is that they prefer to eat with their head on the ground.
Why would having some soybeans on the ground be a bad thing? I'd never spend $90 a bag on a roundup, non forage soybean when one can simply plant some longer maturity soybeans, that have a great agronomic package for your area, and simply plant in mid June( In wisconsin) or a tad later than normal in the area where you live.
Heck, here is a tip for people. Want to make a plot with forage soybeans and regular roundup soybeans, so you have the forage and grain? Mix them together and guess what???? Your non forage soybeans will compete for sunlight and grow taller like the eagle beans. You will lose some bushels per acre but you also will have a unique plot at an economic price per acre.
