Help - re-fletching carbon shafts
Equipment
I used to use aluminum shafts and never had a problem re- fletching - now that I am using carbon shafts - it seems that I can never get my fletchings to stick to my carbon shafts for more than a couple weeks worth of shooting. I have been told to scrape the shaft to remove the old adhesive, to wipe the shaft and the fletching with denatured alcohol, (I've even tried lightly sanding the shaft at this point), apply the fletch-tite lightly to the fletching and then mount them on the shaft with a fletching tool. This still does not work. What methods / materials do you use?
Remove all old glue, clean with denatured alcohol, and fletch with Loctite Super Glue Gel.
There are activators on the market now that you spray on the shaft and let it dry. It's oily textured so it gives the wrong impression, but when it dries and you apply the vane (with fast set gel), hold on, because its drys instantly!
I have had the same problems before as well. What works best for me is to strip the fletchings off until you can rub your fingers over where the fletchings are and not feel a bump. Then clean it with denurtured alcohol soaked into a paper towel or rag.Then refletch using G5 Blue Glue. I have found that this glue sticks the fletching to the shaft best. Then when you are done add a dot of glue at the end of each fletching to help stop the fletching from peeling off.
How old is the glue you are using? if I fletch a dozen and have a little left over, i will keep it for repairs. But i won't start a new set with old glue.
I agree with obx. Loctite gel, blue tube. small tubes and pretty cheap.
Get some wraps and put them on and put fletching on the wrap. They won't come off and it will jazz up your arrows a bit.
My technique is exactly like Deer2000. the Blue G5 glue works great.
that's why wraps came about.
I buy long wraps, cut in half, roll em on and then fletch. Works awesome. Don't know what to do afterwards about the wrap tho. Got some 2 vane arrows in the corner that need some TLC.
I gave up on it. Quick fletch.
Box has it right. I do the very same thing he does using the same glue.
I like using the wraps too.
3x on the G5 Blue glue also. I strip the vanes,wipe down with acetone,lightly sand and wipe again with acetone. G5 is good stuff!
What kind of glue and what fletching are you using. I feel fletching sticks much better to carbon than it does aluminum, but you have to use glue designed for the type of fletching you are using. Cleaning the base of the fletching can help depending on the vane. Some have a primer on them and should not be cleaned, some have release agent on them and must be cleaned. Those that are cleaned should be cleaned with a specific solvent based on the glue used. For example: Fletchtight needs a different solvent cleaner than super glues do. Using the wrong solvent on a plastic vane under certain glues will result in adhesion failure.
Is your glue old? What vanes are you using? I have been fletching my own arrows for 30+ years. I never have adhesion issues regardless of aluminum or carbon shafts, feathers or vanes. I have been using FlexFletch vanes for some years now but have used many different companies with the same results. The only thing I do different is for True-flight feathers I use Bohning Platinum not AAE FastSet Gel (no Zing).
This is what I do.
- Cut of vanes with a utility knife. Scrape old glue off with potato peeler then a single edge razor blade.
- Wipe shaft clean with denatured alcohol on a cheapie (rough) paper towel.
- Wipe with dry paper towel.
- Clean vane base with denatured alcohol on paper towel.
- Apply Zing Primer to vane.
- Apply (as directed) AAE FastSet Gel to vane.
- Stick to shaft and press/hold for 5 seconds.
You can't pull them off with a pliers.
Your biggest problem is the fletch-tite. It's made for bonding with aluminum. Crazy glue, super glue, gorilla glue (what I use) will all work fine on carbon. My method is similar to Buck Watcher.
-scrape off old vanes and adhesive, I keep a cheap old jackknife in my bow box for this, just re-sharpen it occasionally.
-clean shafts w/ fingernail polish remover on a rag.
-put new vane in the clamp and give it a quick wipe w/ fingernail polish remover. Let it dry and apply adhesive.
-press it to the shaft for about 5 seconds and leave.
I really don't pay a lot of attention to how long I leave it in the jig, 15 minutes or so, rotate the jig and apply the next vane.
Thanks guys! This is very helpful. I purchased the vanes a number of years ago and when I had so many problems, I quit repairing the arrows. I now have quite a few to do and needed input. I will stop by the archery shop this afternoon and look for some G5 or some crazy glue gel, super glue gel, or gorilla glue at the hardware store. Thank you Sage - I wasn't aware that fletch-tite was only for aluminum. My fletch-tite adhesive is old - now. It wasn't when I last attempted to re-fletch.
I also wonder about the vanes - I will probably just buy some bohning's. I was also thinking that because I use a whisker bisket rest- the fletchings that I was using seemed stiffer than the ones put on in the factory - that may also put more stress on them.
All of this has been very helpful.
I use the same method as Buckwatcher, you can't pull vanes off with pliers.
Guess I'll add my 2 cents. The last vane I've lost in the last year or so was one I shot off, and I shoot more than anyone I know. I use a Saunders stripper for stripping off vanes. Every once in a while I put a few strokes on it with a file. Strip the old vanes the best you can and then with squares of toilet paper soaked with acetone, I clean all the glue residue off the shaft, then clean it again with denatured alcohol. I get all the new vanes I'll be using and PUT A GOOD COAT OF ZING PRIMER ON THEM and set them aside to be used as I need them. I use Goat Tough glue on the vanes, just don't let it get too old. I hold pressure on the clamp for about 40 seconds and then clean the excess glue that oozes out with a Q tip.
Wasatch - For your WB I would get FlexFletch SK-300 before Bohning 4". The are stiffer, not as tall, quieter and tougher.
My technique is pretty similar to Sage's. I will use denatured alcohol, additionally, a quick pass with emery cloth after scraping the old glue. Denatured alcohol on shaft AND vanes. Dab of glue on each end of vanes. Good luck!
All you need to do is invest in some Quickfletch...its basically shrink wrap...very easy, no fuss, no mess...boil the water and shrink them on...have been using them for multiple years now with no problems
Save yourself some trouble and buy Blazer Shrink Fletches. Can install on a dozen shafts in 2 minutes using boiling water. About the same price as using wraps and vanes separately.
When I used to fletch carbon shafts I would 1) sand them lightly; 2) clean with rubbing alcohol; 3) clean the base of the vane with rubbing alcohol; 4) use a glue made for carbon shafts; 5) install fletching. Very seldom had any adhesion issues whether new or used shafts that had old fletch/glue removed using a knife at a shallow angle before sanding.
I use a WB rest too and in 2 years with this bow, I have not had to refletch a single shaft. Just don't use the NAP Quick Spins that are also shrink fletch things as the vanes are not as durable as the Blazers. My son used tham and in 2 months we had to replace them all using the Blazers.
>>>>----- MHO ---->
Thanks guys! I believe my problem was all in the glue I was using. I had some (I believe) Archers Choice gel glue and got rid of that and found some Goat Tough (thanks Wood). It worked like a charm! Does the Blue G5 actually go on blue so you can see it better? If not -who is going to patent that idea?
