Recurve vs longbow
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
I am really interested in starting to shoot traditional. My goal is to eventually harvest a deer this way. I have been researching trad bows alot but im not sure what the better bow would be to get started. The longbow definitely looks more challenging than the recurve, not that the recurve looks easy! I have also seen prices range from $100-$800. Would a couple hundred dollar bow satisfy a beginner and still eventually be able to hunt with it? I have been shooting a compound for a long time so Im not new to shooting. Thank you in advance for you help
Joe
Recurves are easier in a tree stand.
Longbows are more forgiving.
My backup bow is a Martin Jaguar takedown recurve, 50# @ 28 inches. $175. It shoots nice, and I even bird hunt with it, using Snaro Bird Points.
My Longbow is self built Primative Bow, made of Osage.
I also bird hunt with it , too.
The Majority of my bowhunting is with a Hoyt Compound. I don't want you to get the wrong impression, as I am not a Trad only Hunter.
I do get more enjoyment shooting Trad, vice a Mechanical Wheely Contraption.
Thanks guys, i dont think I will turn into trad only. I still love my compound. So it looks like I can get into a recurve for a pretty reasonable price. As for the longbow, i envy that you made your own bow! That is definitely on my bucket list, but this is the first step. After the holidays I am going to make a trip over to the archery shop and see if I can shoot a couple of each design.
You can start out with a decent Bear Grizzly from e@$y in that price range. I wouldn't go more than 45 lbs.most people will over bow themselves and develop bad for and habits. Sign into Stickbow and we will help you out all we can.
Agree with Marc. Start with low poundage. A 45 pound recurve will kill a Moose.
The Martin Jaguar has different limbs. You can order the 45 pound limbs, the order heavier if you want.
I do not know anything about the Bear Grizzly, but used to have a Bear recurve, and I liked it.
I use a "Cant Pinch" Tab with the Recurve and Longbow.
I never had the knack for the three fingered glove.
Check out the classifieds on the leather wall. Lots of good used bows there.
Take a look at Samick bows, the Sage or Journey, they are $140 at Lancaster's. I bought a Journey for bowfishing and was pleasantly surprised at the quality... a very nice bow for the price.
You don't need to spend a lot of money on a bow. Your form and tuning will determine accuracy more than a high priced bow. I have found the longbow to be more finicky with regards to form and spine.
The Samick bows are a good bow for a beginning trad shooter. They are inexpensive and fairly well made for a mass produced bow. Recurves are easier to shoot than longbows and have less hand shock. The most common mistake new traditional shooters make is buying too heavy a bow. I suggest you get a 45lb recurve to start. As you build your strength, you can get a heavier set of limbs if you want to but it's really not necessary. Match your arrows to your draw weight and draw length. Your draw length with a recurve will likely be a few inches shorter than with your compound. As a general rule, add 3lbs of weight for every inch you draw past the poundage specified on the bow. For example, if you have a 45# @ 28" bow and draw it 29", then you are actually shooting 48#. Make sure the arrows you get are spined properly for YOUR draw weight. If you get a Samick, buy a quality Flemish twist string. This will allow you to adjust your brace height properly. The strings that come with the Samick are junk. As for arrows, I highly recommend carbons. Big Jim's (bowsite sponsor) has a great deal right now on Gold Tip blems. The blemishes are only in the finish. I've bought several dozen GT blems from Big Jim and have been very happy with them. Also, check out 3 Rivers Archery (bowsite sponsor). The folks at Big Jim and 3 Rivers will be glad to help you out. Shooting a traditional bow is fun and challenging. I hope you enjoy it.
I shoot both but I prefer the longbow.Most find the transition easier with recurves.As mentioned it's important to start with a bow you can draw/shoot comfortably.
If you can find a used bow outlet, head in there and shoot as many bows as you can. We have Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear here in Colorado that has hundreds of new and used custom bows. You get the opportunity to find the bow that really works for you.
I made the switch to a recurve last year and love it. Bought a Samick Sage with 40lb limbs. Shot for 4 months then bumped the weight up to 45lbs and hunted all fall with it. The Sage is not a bad bow for a newbe. I've since test drove a black widow bow and fell in love with it. I would start with a bow like the Sage($140-$200 range) and see if you like traditional first but you must start at a low weight and slowly work you way up.
Go to a 3D trad shoot in your area where vendors are displaying their bows. Shoot as many as you can. Then you can look for a used bow that is close to what felt the best to you when you were shooting.
If you have friends that shoot trad, see if they will let you shoot their bows. The more of them you shoot, the better idea you will have of what you want.
If not mentioned above, swing over to the Leatherwall side of this site. Its all traditional and lots of great info there.
If you can shoot a bow before buying it, that is always nice. But, a used lower price trad bow can usually be sold for what you paid for it so you might have to "date" a few before you find the right match. The basics for an average build guy would be a 45-50# bow at your draw length. Knock and inch or so off what your compound draw length is. They are usually rated at 28", so if your draw length is 27", a "50#" bow is about 47#. If your draw length is 29", it will be around 53#. DON"T go heavy! As stated above its one of the most common mistakes when getting started.
I would suggest a recurve or a reflex/deflex longbow (hybrid) to get started and if you catch the bug you can go from there.
Careful, the simplicity and fun of hunting with a trad bow can be addicting. A big part of the reward in bowhunting is tied to how hard it is. You know that feeling you get when you see a big 10pt buck coming in that might give you a shot? When you are hunting with your trad bow, you might find you get that feeling with any legal deer.
I've been shooting "trad" most my life, and although I love the shear simplicity and look of a longbow I have always found the recurve to be easier to shoot well. I've also found them to have less hand shock than most longbows I've shot. I think the best advice you've been given is to go to a trad shoot and try out as many different bows as you can find. Start with something light and don't over-bow yourself, and don't believe just because a bow is custom and costs upwards of $1000 that it necessarily will shoot better than one costing a fraction of that. I've owned just about every make and model, and I can tell you one of the best shooters I've ever owned was an old Bear Grizzly picked off an auction wagon for $60! Trad bows are fun, and if you're like me you'll really dig being able to see the flight of the arrow for a change!
Been shooting "traditional" since it wasn't. Been over 45 years now. I would suggest you start out with a recurve in the 45 to 50 pound range. Develop accuracy and good form.
It may take you awhile but stick with it.
I find both to be pretty much the same and shoot both equally well. I don't really believe one is any easier to master than the other beyond the mental thing and for most of my treestands I would not notice any difference in the bow so that shouldn't matter.
Just get a bow and start shooting. You don't need to spend a lot because if you like it you will eventually have a collection of bows. Kind of the progression of things in trad hunting. I typically have 5-6 bows ready to hunt and decide which one goes with me as I am walking out the door. SOme I made, some others made for me, many that I bought used, some Frankenbows - they all kill the same.
The newer hybrid longbow designs give you the best features of recurves (speed, no hand shock, stable grip, smooth draw) and the best features of a longbow (stability, quietness). The better hybrid longbows shoot just as fast as any of the recurves. Try out some different bows to see what you like. Attend some traditional shoots in your area. Most guys will be glad to let you take a few shots using their bow.
ollie x1, the newer hybrid you have the best of both worlds. Go to a shoot and try them all, they are all different and find the one that fits and then practice, practice,practice (standing, kneeling, sitting and at all angles); just find your form and stay w/ it.
I own 3 recurves and thought they shot great until I bought a Bear Montana longbow. You should try shooting one.
Hey guys thanks for all the responses. This will definitely be a challenge for me since there are very few trad shooters in VT. VT is still a big rifle state and they havent really pushed archery on to its hunters. After the holidays I am going to go down to the local archery shop and shoot a couple different bows they have there. Hopefully they have some of the ones you guys recommended. I know it can take a long time to become accurate and confident. Would you think it would be okay to use the same arrows as my compound while I work on form? When I started shooting my compound I really focused on form then worried about accuracy. I shoot beman ics hunter pro 400s. I would start shooting at 10 yards for awhile. One more question, as far as form goes is it similar to a compound? That may be hard to answer and probably best left for the archery shop to answer. Thanks again!
"One more question, as far as form goes is it similar to a compound? "
The best advice I ever got for shooting instinctive, is to draw and have your anchor under your cheekbone. Then, with your eye, look right down the top of that arrow.
With practice, comes muscle memory, and coupled with you looking right down that arrow, you will be able to judge distance pretty good.
Shooting Instinctive Bare Bow is a deteriorative skill. You need to practice, practice often, and shoot a practice arrow when arriving at your hunting spot prior to hunting.
Find out that morning/evening of the hunt, exactly where your muscle memory is shooting for that particular time and place.
A lost tourist in New York City, seeking directions, once asked a famous Meistro, "How do I get to Carnegie Hall.".
The Meistro answered, "Practice, practice, practice."
Good luck,
Tony
Haha I like that Tony. I just watched some youtube videos and now understand shooting instinctively. I feel that anchor points and muscle memory are similar to my compound. I have had a couple kills where for the life of me I cant remember looking through my sights but the deer was dead and died in sight. I shot so often that muscle memory took over. I really appreciate the help. I am getting really excited and don't know if I can wait until after the holidays to get going. i might have to make a trip to the archery shop this weekend and poke around a little bit.
Another question for you guys. Has anyone made their own bow and arrows and been successful harvesting an animal? That is my long term goal and would love to hear those stories.
"Has anyone made their own bow and arrows and been successful harvesting an animal?"
See my second photo above. That was the 2nd deer I harvested with a self built bow.
My first was a Doe fawn, around 4 months old. She was the first deer to come within my self-limited 15 yard range for a bare bow.
I bore easily when shooting my compound, but can shoot my longbow or recure for hours with glee.
I have noticed that a recurve will trap twigs/grass and stuff like that between the limb and the string at the curve. It doesn't happen nearly as often with a longbow. Might of might not be an issue for you, especially if you are using a tree stand.
Patrick
Alright, I have had one too many Cab Sabs ( glasses of wine ) tonight. Please forgive me, and allow me to hijack your thread.
I have been shooting archery continuously since 1967. I am just your averge Joe Blow hunter, only have one P & Y book deer, but am forever enamoured with the flight of the arrow.
Something about feeling the arrow leave the string, and gracefully arcing across the sky, just makes my heart smile.
In 2010, after a Heart Ablasion Procedure that cured my SVT issues, I treated myself to a 6 day 5 night stay at Holiday Lake Virginia, for a Primitive Bow Building Seminar.
I got back to the basics, and it cured my soul.
This first photo is laying out the bow on the Osage Stave.
Working the Osage.
Our Instructor, Alton Hill, made us use hand tools. He said that with hand tools you make small mistakes slowly. His experience taught that using jig saws and power tools ruined a lot of Staves for newbies.
Further work with a Draw Knife.
More handtool work.
It was hard and exhausting work.
Adjusting the "Tiller" of the bow.
We were taught how to make your own bowstring, and tie a Flemish Knot.
First shot off my first self built bow.
This was/is the main Instructor, Alton Hill. I think he has made over 500 bows, and, volunteers his time teaching others.
In Virginia, amongst Trad Shooters, you cannot conisder yourself a Bowyer until you have made 100 bows that have survived shooting 300 arrows.
I certainly do not consider myself a Bowyer. I certainly did have a hoot building my own bow, and then taking a deer that same fall. I think I have more enjoyment with the memory of shooting that Doe Fawn with my Self Bow, than the Pope'er with a Compound.
I am very lucky with a Game Department that holds so many different hunting and fishing "How To" seminars. Whatever game you want to hunt in Virginia, the Game Department will teach you how.
The Primitave Bow Building is held yearly by the 4 H folks at Holiday Lake, near Farmville VA, and is open to the first 15 people to pay the 550 dollars for a 5 night 6 day seminar that includes a place to sleep and 3 meals a day. Also included is two Bowstaves, one for the class and one to take home.
Anyway, thanks again for letting me hijack your thread.
LiveOutdoors, whatever you decide to do in your Archery endeavors, please do so with a clean conscience, much fun, and a happy heart. After all, that is what Bowhunting really is all about.
Tony
I shot this elk with a wood/glass hybrid longbow I built. Dive in! Hunting with a simple weapon can be really satisfying.
That is so cool! Dont worry you didnt hijack. I have gotten bored shooting my compound. I really only take a couple shots each session. I think the technology is what has started to turn me off. Dont get me wrong, being in the stand with my bow is still a feeling that only few really understand. I dont hunt with a gun anymore.
It may be many years before I make my own bow, but my ultimate goal is to create my own tools to harvest an animal. I think that is about everything you can accomplish besides using a speer or your bare hands! I have set goals in my hunting lifetime and feel its time to get started on my next notch. I cant explain my love for archery typing on here but Im sure you all know what I mean. The only unfortunate piece of the puzzle is that I live in a state with absolutely horrible deer hunting. Thankfully I go to ohio every year and thanks to that trip it has helped me check off personal goals on my list.
I researched the Samick Sage and it looks like a great bow to start out with. I hope the archery shop has one to test out.
Thanks again guys and great pics Tony thanks for sharing!
That is awesome glunt. Some day in the far future i hope to share a similar story!
Glunt, nice Elk. I am betting that your Longbow, being both glass and wood, is quiet.
PatrickK, I agree, my Recurve attracts twigs like a magnet, my Longbow rarely.
LiveOutdoors, we also had an arrow building class, and learned how to straighten wood arrows.
We did not have time in class to build arrows, because we were all newbies, and very slow in getting our bows built. We must have driven poor Alton crazy. LOL !
Photo is an example of Cherokee Two Fletch, that to me, was amazingly accurate.
I killed this big blacktail buck in 1990 with a Yew selfbow and homemade arrow. The bow was a gift from John Strunk, a master bowyer out here in Oregon.
You say there are few deer where you live. Well, its more fun not to kill a deer with a stickbow than it is to not kill one with a compound.
Especially one you made yourself (and its not really all that hard, what with the internet and books and all).
Beautiful buck Ron. God bless and Merry Christmas to you all Steve
Learn to shoot one well first. Then decide if you want it to be a "journey" or lifestyle. The later can keep the 1st from happening in a timely matter.
One guy's thoughts...
Recurve, compound or longbow...they all launch an arrow from a hand-held bow being drawn and held. The basic principles of arrow propulsion, arrow flight and accuracy apply to all. For consistent accuracy, they all require some type of form or discipline in shooting. If extreme accuracy with a wheel-bow depends on good form, then it only makes sense that any other bow demands good form. Wheel-bows have the obvious holding weight advantage, but more important is their adjustability to overcome operator error. Stickbows don't have that capability generally, so errors in form or technique equate to lousy accuracy. Practice is the key to good form, and good form unlocks the door to accuracy.
That said, a recurve typically will lend itself to an easier change-over. The grip is more contoured, sight window cut to or past center, elevated rest option, vanes, smoother draw, etc. They are not inherently more accurate than a longbow, but are typically easier to achieve accuracy with when beginning.
If I was starting out, I would find a good recurve in lower poundage and it would likely be a used hunting bow by a known bowyer or company. My budget would be under $500 for just the bow. I wouldn't buy any bow which had unique features or wasn't rather mainstream in design. Drive a Chevy before deciding if you want a custom Cadillac. ;-)
Kevin Dill, x's 2!! Very well put. At the end of the day it's still archery and correct form is a must, regardless of bow type.
I was actually in the same boat that you are right now about a year ago. I have hunted with a compound since I was 14. The last couple of years I have been doing a lot of reading and research about traditional bows. I also have a bucket list goal of making a bow and arrows by hand and killing a deer with them. I'm talking flint knapped arrowheads and all.
Anyway, my wife surprised for my first father's day last year with a Samick Journey. I stand about 6'2" and draw just shy of 30", so the guy on the phone suggested the longer Journey as opposed to the Sage. I've been nothing but happy with it. I've heard a lot of guys say that the string that comes with isn't the best, and they usually recommend a higher quality fast flite string...but so far I'm just shooting the thing as much as I can. I was surprised at how quickly I got to the point where I was sure I could kill a deer at 10 yards. I like the look of the thing too. It's not the prettiest of bows I've seen, but it's darn nice for the money.
LiveOutdoors.... Are you Left Handed by chance? I'm going to be selling off a large variety of Recurves after Xmas and would be willing to work with you on trying one out (Habu, BlackWidow, Wilderness, Bear)..
Hey Stickfinger, unfortunately im not. I really appreciate the thought though. I called a couple local archery shops to hear their inventory of recurves and one has only PSC and the other has more of a variety. They have Bear and the Samick sage which I am very interested in shooting.
One more question for you guys, you think it would be ok to use my compound arrows just to get started. Mostly to work on form and not so much arrow flight and accuracy. I shoot Beman ics hunter pro 400s
Thanks
I would start with a recurve in the mid price range. If you start with a crappy one it may sour your initial impression. It's addictive . You'll find yourself dreaming about that 1200$ custom bow before long . It is great fun to shoot without sights and just know what your "hold on" range is. Out to about 25 yards I just point and shoot. The simplicity is great.
Which will shoot better will depend on you. True story: I was at a in door range some years ago and I had just bought a Jerry Hill longbow and was shooting it there and I was doing okay for me at that time with it about a 8 inch group at 20 yds, I had been shooting recurves. There was a guy there that was shooting a Damon Howatt Hunter his groups with no exageration were 2ft groups EVERY time he shot. So were walking back one time after pulling arrows and he said can I try your bow and I said sure can I shoot yours. So we swapped, I kid you not he went from that 2ft group to a 6inch group first round, next round to a 4 inch group, thatis where it stayed for him, for me with the Howatt Hunter I was shooting 2-3 inch groups. I jokingly said to him after pulling and walking back do you want to trade he said "YES'. He got the longbow and I got the recurve with a quiver. Point of this being shoot a longbow and shoot a recurve and see which will work best for you. If you are use to shooting a lower wrist on a compound, you may do better with a longbow. If you are shooting more of a pistol grip on the compound, then you may do better with a recurve. Not knowing you draw length start with a 40-45lb bow. Either of these weights will more than kill deer, with a heavy arrow 8-10gr/pound of draw weight and a cut on contact 2 blade broadhead will put it clear through the deer. Shooting tradional don't be hooked on speed work for accuracy and have fun doing it. As you get your form and accuracy and want to go up in draw weight do it then. DANNY
I picked up a vintage Wing last year for $80 on *bay, this is the first group I shot with it at 10yds.
This is after 2 weeks of practice at 15 yards...
You can do it. Kevin Dill and Linecutter said it best fr me. Go lighter at first, shoot as many as you can. You'll find it to be really easy if you consistently anchor, release, and follow through. Just find the one that suits you. God Bless
I have shot longbow for over 50 years. Never shot a bow with sights. In my opinion, the longbow with its light weight, pointability, and quick shooting capability is one the finest hunting weapons ever invented, started with lemonwood, on to fiberglass, and over 30 years ago, bought a bamboo longbow which is my hunting bow. As others have said, go low poundage and look for used bows. Have fun and prepare to become hooked.
Thanks guys. Can anyone give me a review on the Samick sage 40lbs. I am going to shoot a couple different bows but i have read alot that this is a great bow to start out at only costing $140.
You can also get both longbow and recurve limbs and use the same riser. Good luck and have fun!
Its a good value. I have shot them and my son has the youth version. Its likely that if you get the bug you will upgrade and the Sage will be a backup/buddy bow. But, its perfectly capable of taking any game you wish. I would put on a flemish string and some silencers. I just weave 2" strips of wool yarn through the string, shoot it a bit, then trim them to nice puff balls. Don't use cotton yarn as it loads up with moisture.
Great thanks for the advise. Ya I am looking to start with a bow that doesnt break the bank but lets me learn to shoot correctly. Knowing myself, once I learn about trad archery and get very comfortable I will upgrade to a really nice and probably expensive bow. When I started shooting a compound, i started with an old high country that my neighbor gave me. After a couple year, once I mastered my form and was very comfortable, i built my new bow.
The question i am still looking for an answer is can i start out with using my compound arrows which are beman ics hunter pro 400s? Obviously i would buy specific arrows once i started to get the hang of it.
Your ICS Pro 400s will be WAY too stiff for the 40# recurve... you will have poor arrow flight. See if you can't find a couple .600 spine arrows and put 145gr or 175gr up front. Good arrow flight from your recurve will make you smile! Bad arrow flight.. and you will quit very frustrated.
I helped my girlfriend's brother on setting up his Samick Sage. I told him to order a 45 lb. Samick Sage and get a Flemish twist string and some "test arrows. Well, this guy is the most impatient person I know (don't get me wrong he's a great guy) and against my suggestions, he went to a "pro-shop" and bought a 60", 45lb @ 28" Samick Sage and 2 dozen Goldtip 5575s. He was all excited and invited me over to his house to practice. Well, the "pro-shop" had no clue what they were doing. They didn't measure his draw length and they sold him an endless loop string that couldn't be adjusted and it was too long. His brace height was something like 5", way too low. His arrows were flying all over the place and he could barely hit the target at 10 yards. I looked at his setup and immediately saw the problems. I gave him one of my Flemish twist strings and started the tuning process. That improved his arrow flight a lot but his arrows were way too stiff. So, I had him get some GT 3555s. When those came in we played around with point weight and got things dialed in. I don't remember his draw or arrow length but we settled on 150 gr. heads. The moral of this story is don't go to a "pro-shop" that primarily deals with compounds. If you don't have a pro-shop with experienced trad bow shooters nearby, then call someplace like 3Rivers and get their advice. The folks at 3Rivers know their stuff. Or you can ask for advice here or on the Leatherwall. And finally, be patient and practice A LOT. Don't expect to shoot 1" groups at 20 yards when you first start out.
You asked for a review of the Samick Sage @ 40lbs. I shot my friends 45 lb. bow (the one I talked about above) and I was pleasantly surprised at how well it shot. It was quiet and cast the arrows nicely. I felt I could have killed a deer with it. For the money, I think it was a pretty good value.
"then call someplace like 3Rivers and get their advice. The folks at 3Rivers know their stuff."
Yep, I agree.
You are in good hands here brother, all great advice. Try to hook up with some local trad guys...I was real lucky a loooong time ago as my boss tucked me under his experienced arm and mentored me along to a life long addiction. One thing I would add to all the above knowledge is in regard to practice...when you get tired, stop. Won't take long at first...lol. light bow is a must for starts. I coached hockey for 34 years and my experience is tired athletes got sloppy and can ingrain bad habits. I read a long time ago that sports physiologists say the human requires 6000 repititions to establish muscle memory...ingrain wrong, 6G to deprogram and 6G more to reprogram. In learning correct mechanics and form, practice does not make perfect...practice makes permanent...perfect practice makes perfect.
In regard to which stick to pick...read all the previous posts...try 'em all...and choose...what ever floats yer boat. Me personally, I love the recurve. Just shoots 'em better. I'm not as fortunate as some of the museum curaters here and possess but a couple of each...lol. I did however, recently order up my first real custom from Ken at Whippen Stick, his 60" Phoenix , 54lbs @29". Used to shoot 2 Black Widows...65 & 70lb...and 2 long bows made by my afore-mentioned boss 76 & 84lb. Now at 62 years I gotta scale that down.
Movies (see Braveheart) often portray the archers as kinda whimpy looking little nerd dudes...nothing could be further from the truth!!! The English long bowmen's craft was a life long endeaver...shooting 100+ lbs in combat volley hold 'n shoot took sumpthin'special.
Welcome to the brotherhood...enjoy your journey.
As recommended get a different string than what come with the bow. A High preformance string material of some kind (material your choice) flemish twist. If you are going to shoot off the shelf you will need to use feathers on the arrows, if you shoot of a elevated rest you will be able to get away with vanes. If you have a longer draw 29" or longer I would suggest the Journey which is the same price at Lancaster Archery it is a 64inch, I just think it will help you with learning your release the Sage will work but it is just a thought (again replace the string with that bow also). If you want to keep cost down on arrow shafts I would suggest the Gamegetter 500 with either the 125 or 145 gr point for the 40 or 45 bow again depending on arrow lenght and draw lenght. DANNY
Kevin Dill's advice is spot on. It should be required reading for anyone getting into traditional archery.
In addition, don't get sucked into the whole "traditional = instinctive" thing. I couldn't beging to tell you how many frustrated people I've seen give up or nearly give up traditional archery because instinctive shooting didn't work for them. Go on YouTube and search for Jimmy Blackmon's videos. He has many excellent ones on form and various dedicated aiming mentods.
Get your form down and learn an aiming system, in that order. Those two things will take years off your learning curve.
"Longbows are more forgiving."
A well made longbow *may* be more forgiving than a poorly made recurve, but it's interresting to note that no one shoots a longbow in the Olympics. There's a reason for that.
Scanned thru here quickly. Don't overbow. Better to pull back and say," I wish this draw weight was a few pounds more. " Rather then the other way around. Your draw length will shorten by 1-2 inches because of increasing weight over the decreasing weight of the Compound compresses your frame. Recurves with the grips and riser design seem to be better for a transition. Most recurves have a 3-4 window in there draw force curve where they perform the best. They draw and feel the best if your new draw length falls into that window. Don't jump into too deep. Nothing wrong with using aluminum, carbons, replaceable blade broadheads of COC design. After you get good with your new form. Bareshaft tuning will help maximize your accuracy and penetration potential. Black Widow, A&H Archery, Vintage Archery, has Videos or downloadable print info. Been shooting recurves for almost forty years. Got a 07 Bowtech Commander, but cannot tell you if it's still in the bow case. LOL. Hope this helps. Regards, Raptor
Best deal going to get started is a nice vintage Bear Recurve that you can easily find for $150-200.