Acetone free way to remove fletchings
Equipment
I need to re-fletch quite a few of my carbon arrows and was wondering if any one knows #1-how to get the old fletching off without shaving the carbon off that I'm not aware of and #2-I know acetone attacks and can weaken carbon arrow possibly dangerously so. My question is is there another solvent that removes glue well but doesn't pose a threat to my carbon arrows structural integrity? I ask this because I don't know what glue was used to attach the fletchings to my arrows but its a real S0B to remove.
I have tried a few OTC fletching removal tools with poor results as well as a dulled razor knife also resulting in less than satisfactory results.
Thanks, Arthur.
I don't mean to sound condescending, but learn to scrape off the glue with a razor knife without damaging the carbon. I have used this method for years and I can't remember when the last time was I damaged a shaft. Some people like a dull knife, I like them sharp. There is a learning curve, but it is not an impossibility. You will learn from experience the right amount of pressure and the correct angle to hold the knife. All it takes is the willingness to try and then do it.
Rubbing carbon arrows with Acetone won't hurt the arrows. You may not live long enough for it to remove the glue either, especially if it's some form of super glue. Cut the vanes away with a knife without digging into the carbon then scrape the glue without digging into the carbon, it's not hard.
I use a knife and either acetone or mek. The resin is cured, neither chemical will do anything to the arrow for days if not months of a constant soak.
Serrated edge knife to remove old fletch, MEK to clean.
This acetone issue is news to me. I've used acetone for years on carbon arrow shafts as well as graphite golf shafts when reshafting. I have never had a problem with either.
Those cheap curved-blade linoleum knives work great. That's always taken me 99% of the way; the final 1% can be accomplished with 60-grit sandpaper followed by clean-up with 91% alcohol.
I haven't tried it yet, but I have been told a potato peeler works well.
I scrape/cut off the fletching, then use a medium cut file to lightly work down the residue to the shaft. When it is clean, it will quit dragging.
I do use a damp acetone rad to preclean before fletching.
EZ Eye makes a fletching removal blade that fits into an ordinary utility knife. It's all I use... for carbons, aluminums, and even wooden shafts.
The key for removing the glue residue is to keep the blade perpendicular to the shaft. Don't try to cut it off. Scrape it off.
I hold the knife blade flat to cut the fletching off. Then perpendicular to scrape the dried glue. I could do this blindfolded(literally). You can "hear" the difference between clean and glue.
I have only used a box knife to remove and acetone to clean my shafts before re-fletching them so the shaft is clean and the vanes stick. I have never seen any damage to them by using it. Lately I have been using arrow wraps so the whole process is easier when removing them. Gonna have to do some soon.
I use wraps then fletch, so mot problems. When I want to refletch I just put the wrap and fletch in hot water and then use a knife to get the wrap off.
Thanks to all for your information and suggestions. Especially about acetone use. I was at a different sight and the contributors there made acetone out to be the chemical kiss of death to carbon arrow.
Will definitely give the EZ-Eye fletching blade a try.
Again, Thanks to all.
Thanks for all the good suggestions. My caution concerning doing anything to weaken carbon arrows stems from multiple framed articles at a local pro shop all showing pictures of a archers hands impaled when there carbon arrows shattered immediately after being released/shot. Admittedly these shattering events were most likely a result of the failed carbon arrow having been shot into a extremely hard surface on the lines of concrete and used again instead of being discarded.
Now I know better. Thanks, Arthur.
Been using a razor knife to start then a single edge razor blade and denatured alcohol for many years with no issues.
It's expensive, but Norway Zip Strip tool works very well also, with no damage to the carbon.
Being a cheapskate and having a bunch of old aluminum shafts left laying around.... you can make a quick and easy tool.
If possible match the ID of the aluminum to the OD of the carbon as best you can. (this one is a 2514, thin wall shafts seem to work better)) Cut the shaft at an angle... I just cut mine by eye, it's more than a 45 though. If you leave the end with a bit of the square cut shaft on it or cut the tip off just a bit after, it seems to work better.
Then a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper laid over a carbon shaft and sand the aluminum tool to more closely match/mate the shaft to the tool as well as "sharpen" the edge some. Works pretty well and doesn't damage the carbon you are scraping. "resharpen" as necessary...
You'll likely want to tape the "handle" end of the tool mostly so you don't get cut by the bare end of the shaft. BUT, I glue an old insert into the handle end. It is the same thread as common for brass brushes used for cleaning rifle bores. I dip the brush in acetone and use it to clean the inside of shafts before I glue in inserts. Blow out with compressed air. For most "standard" shafts the .243 brush works well.
Better shot of the "blade" end of the scraper and the "squared" off tip.
Wraps are the best option if you're not using cheap throwaway arrows. Once you peel a wrap off in a minute and can go right back to fletching... It's amazing. You'll never go back.
As others have said, just use a knife with the blade held at a flat angle. Finish with a light sanding (I do on brand new shafts after an archery shop guy that did hundreds of shafts a year told me, clean with rubbing alcohol and done. I also cleaned the base of all vanes with the rubbing alcohol too.
I also agree that fletching now sucks! My Jo Jan 6 place fletching jig has sat unused for many years, I don't even own a fresh tube of fletching cement! :) I use shrink on fletch or wraps....
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