Or if you took a moving shot, what was the distance and the result?
they are tougher to stop in my opinion. they may be further away, they grunt when they walk and they walk in groups so there is a lot of noise going on often (unlike with deer), and even when just walking their heels click and make noise.
A loud grunt will not spook them, but it may not stop them either.
I will admit that I have gut shot a couple due to the moving issue. The good news is even a gut shot caribou will normally be recovered easily. They won't go far, probably have nowhere to hide and won't go out of sight, and they die easily. better too far back than too far forward.
Before our first trip we made a moving target on a cable. That really helped. We hunted with trad bows so it was "swing and shoot" and we didn't have to organize sights and pins.
The good news is that is generally pretty open and you can watch them after the shot. Seems like they like to lie down in the open, probably instinctively to see predators, rather than in brush or trees.
One other thing to remember: it's far easier to swing and pivot into the side on which you're holding the bow, rather than away from it. Its a back muscle thing. Try it and you'll see.
Trad guys are real good at "winging it" on moving targets.... it's what they do. I know a couple who claim that are better if the target is a bit "dynamic", it lets their subconscious take over instead of a conscious aiming process. Peeps and pins are different. Kinda like shooting a shotgun on sporting clays vs shooting a scoped rifle.
We messed around one day with targets rolling em on a small yard cart, shooting moving targets. With compounds the steady bow was what worked best. Glad it wasn't my cart too....
I find it much easier to shoot a moving target by establishing a lead, swinging with the target and having a good proper release. If you keep your bow stationary, you are forced into punching the trigger when you feel the animal is at the right point. (I have done this on walking whitetails when you have an opening in bush) but prefer to avoid that situation. Another distraction is that you have picked an "aiming point" but have to constantly reference back to your animal and where/how it is advancing, and whether or not you have picked the right spot to "aim." For these reasons, I much prefer a swinging lead.
I absolutely love walking shots at 25 yards or less. I've shot geese at further ranges walking from 40-60 yards and they are great practice for bigger game.
We have done a fair amount of practice at moving targets and if you can find a buddy, grab a 5 gallon pail lid and some judo heads, and have one guy roll them through a field while the other guy shoots. You'll be surprised how proficient you become very quickly and will really help your confidence on moving animals. The beauty of a moving animal, is you know how fast it is going. On stationary animals you can wonder if the animal will jump string. I had a longer shot at my caribou this past fall, and even in the wind he jumped string bad.
Of course this can be practiced...and it doesn't take much to get the hang of it.
But even that wasn't the biggest problem. One of the things we found was if trying to "maintain lead" with a compound, peep and pins the shooter will follow along, get his lead.... and then actually stop at the shot, as the shot itself tends to be a sequence developed... and hit back. Maintained leads IMO don't work as well with "surprise" releases like with a compound (rifle type) Work much better with an unconscious release trad style with fingers (slap the trigger like a shotgun). Many years ago when I shot trap, installed a release trigger on my trap gun and I went from shooting low 90s to high 90s almost overnight. The gun just seemed to go off by itself when everything was perfect. Rifles, there may be some but I've never seen a release trigger on one.
I grew up shooting rifles and shotguns, started hand loading before I had my drivers license. Close in you're OK. But I've killed a ton of stuff long range from a rest and letting them walk into it. If you're prone to punch, you likely will under pressure of maintaining a lead as well. Shooting a shotgun isn't even a punch, it's almost a slap of the trigger. Again, many thousands of rounds at the trap range. Had one in my backyard.
A person can try both styles and use what works for them. When you get used to one and really want to put it to the test try a few broadheads. Not using my cart though... =D
I sure appreciate the comments and help from those of you with bou hunting experience.
Is there any logic in attempting to stop every caribou before the shot and then if they don't stop, just adjust your aiming point? Is there any harm in attempting to stop them with a bou sound? Like a loud grunt/bleat? Or does that increase the risk of them spooking or speeding up?
Do yourself a favor...buy or rent a caribou bowhunting video and watch it on you TV...use the slow motion capability and a piece of masking tape on the screen in the following way. I used Monster Bulls 3 for my setup...pick whatever video you want, just make sure it has lots of walking shots in it to demonstrate where to aim. Let me explain the process.
OK...freeze the frame on the video EXACTLY where the arrow enters the caribou's chest. Make a small pointer arrow out of a small piece of masking tape...and place it on your TV screen precisely where the arrow is striking the caribou.
Now...back up the video using your remote...one frame at a time...and watch as the arrow returns to the shooter's bow at full draw...while the caribou walks backwards in the video to the spot just a moment before the arrow is launched.
This will show you EXACTLY where the archer/bowhunter was aiming at the moment of the shot.
Trust me when I tell you this will blow you away. And yes, it takes one hell of a lead at times...depending on the shot distance and the speed at which the caribou is walking.
Paid big dividends for me in northern Quebec...and I'm so glad I spent the time to figure it out using video as a tool.
Best of luck on your trip.