Suburban (SUV) Upfitting?
Equipment
I recently purchased a GMC suburban (I think is a yukonxl or tahoe xl or something like that). I am going to use it only for hunting. I want to put a lift on it but not make it too bad for taking on some OOS hunts.
Have any of you jazzed up an SUV and have any tips? This is my first SUV. I still have my p/u as my daily driver but wanted something just for hunting where I could leave stuff inside it.
I was looking at a truck vault for it but not sure if they are a pain for taking in and out.
So...any experience lifting one (how much? 1", 2"...)?
Any modifications to the interior for storage?
I want to keep the backseat usable as a seat but don't really need the third seat.
First question is how much do you want to spend? The sky is the limit with this...for better or worse! GM has used IFS on their fullsize rigs since 1988 which necessitates complex and expensive suspension lift kits. A firm word of advice I will give you is to STAY AWAY from body lifts - they separate the body from the frame, are cheap, look like crap, and don't gain you much of anything. In terms of suspension lifts, buy a full-drop kit (not a knuckle lift) and AVOID lifting blocks under the rear axle (if your Suburban has leafspring rear suspension).
Rancho, Skyjacker, and Rough Country are all good suspension brands.
Generally speaking to get a quality lift you are looking at the 4-6" range and these will allow you to run 33-35" tall tires by approx 12.5" wide. Depending on what gears your Suburban has, you may then need to re-gear down to a 3.73 or 4.10, as factory 3.42 or lower will make the Suburban a pig to go anywhere.
Good tires for everyday driving are BFG A/Ts; if you want a more aggressive pattern, well there are a lot more options out there. You will also probably want a fullsize spare.
Next up is bumpers, which I do not have on my Silverado but would love to get. As far as I'm concerned, BUCKSTOP is the industry standard. Expensive but well-built. I have one on my 1996 K1500. Winches - Warn or Ramsey.
Check out the FSC forums (supporting link embedded above).
-Joe
Definitely don't get any smaller than a 4" lift. I have a 4" lift on my pickup and it is just barely enough to notice anything is done.
If you plan to tow a camper out west you may look into replacing the 4L60 trans that it probably has. Mine took a dump on an elk hunt towing a small camper, and 2 of my uncles have found the same issue with there suburbans.
What is the purpose of putting a big lift, or any lift(other than looks), a suburban is far from being a off roader, guess gas is still cheap down there?
a 1"-2" lift isn't going to gain you anything in terms of capability. anything higher will effect highway handling and fuel mileage when on your oos hunts.
I would leave the suspension stock height, and just put good tires on it. if you need a lift to get anywhere a stock height can't get you, you should probably park and walk-in.
I think the idea of a truck vault or similar is a good idea. also, you can add a roof rack basket that can carry gear, coolers, etc. on oos hunts.
good seat covers are a must imo, as are fog or driving lights if not on the vehicle already.
Another factor to consider is a locking rear differential, esp. if your Suburban doesn't have the factory G80. Tires and a locker can get you a lot of places.
They can also make it harder to get out of those places if you get stuck.
-Joe
Thank you very much for the replies.
Will a 4" lift not make for a rough ride? I was anticipating an AT tire as I will spend 95% of the time going back and forth rather than off-road.
SWOHTR - you mention adding a locking differential to the rear. I will look into that. I have never lifted a vehicle before and am quickly learning that going cheap will likely cost more in the long run.
Will a heavier bumper and winch on the front necessitate a stiffer suspension in the front?
I live in western Montana and have a suburban and have taken it places that most people wouldn't think to go with one. Mine is stock height, but I did go to a 265 all terrain tire and upgraded the shocks to the Rancho 5000x. I custom built a winch mount on the front and mounted my 9500# mile marker winch...and yes I have used it a few times to get my self and another truck out. I do have the G80 differential, so between that and the tires, I can get to quite a few places, I just take it slow when it gets too rough and so far I haven't broke anything...but I do know my time is coming. I love this truck, as I can take the third row out and fold up the second one and have more than enough room to sleep in it, plus have enough room to carry all of my hunting stuff.
Candor, my 4" lift on my GMC pickup didn't hardly effect the ride at all. I drive around 2000 highway miles from October-November on it to get back and forth across the state to hunt every weekend with an AT tire and it performs fantastic both on and off the road.
If your going to put a locking unit in your diff, I would suggest a air locker, best of both worlds, open diff is much better for icy, snowy roads, just holds the road better. If you really want put air locker front and rear, even with no lift that will out due 90% of the trucks out there Remember the more lift and bigger=less power and milage, especially pulling a trailer.
I'd rather have a pickup truck for hunting but handed my trusty (rusty) 02 Silverado to my oldest son who is off to college this fall. I bought a Burban 1 1/2 years ago and hunted with it last fall. It's a stocker 2011 and it worked fine. The thing I don't like is needing a tarp to throw down in the back to haul the bloody dead animal and the problem of keeping said bloody animal cool on a long hunting trip. I don't have a need to lift the thing or put bigger tires on it. The stock 265s work fine offroad. And I live in the flatlands of the midwest so there isn't much need for major ground clearance. To me it would be unnecessary expense.
I don't think there are any good options for a locking FRONT differential for these IFS rigs, my understanding is they tend to blow up your CV joints.
Do you have a 1/2 or 3/4-ton? That might change the game a little bit.
If anything, I'd recommend good A/T tires and a rear locker if you don't have one. Follow that up with a winch of some sort. This will keep costs down while improving functionality. Remember: a lift (4-6") usually necessitates bigger tires (33-35x12.50"), which usually necessitates lower gears (3.73-4.10 ratio), which could necessitate recalibrating the speedometer. Additionally, some lifts require longer front driveshafts to be installed, but this typically depends on how high you go.
In my case, I have a 2012 1500 Silverado Z71. I put a 2" leveling kit in it and will upgrade to 285 BFG A/Ts by fall and will be comfortable to go most places and maintain on-road functionality while not decreasing MPG a lot. For going further I have an ATV with a winch and/or my own two legs.
-Joe
You are going to be using this rig 95% on the road.....don't waste money on a lift. You can buy tags for 3 years of out of state hunts for the price of the cheapest lift out there.
I'd run 265s, and if you are going to drop money add an air locker and a winch. Otherwise leave it be and save your money for tags.
You could rhino line the interior up about 2 feet and add drain plugs so you can just hose it out if you want. The carpet in the interior is going to be your biggest problem. It will hold a lott of dirt mud and water. That would be my biggest concern.
If I can't get there in my stock burb it's time to get on the quad, mountain bike, or hoof it in.
Weathertech or GM-brand rubber floormats are a good idea also. Sad thing is, if GM offered rubber instead of carpet from the factory, there would be no need to spend $300+ on them...
I agree w/ Caddisflinger. Upgrade your tires, get a winch and/or locker. Spend the lift money better elsewhere.
Joe
Thank yall. I like the direction.
Do I need to beef up the suspension in the front to add an aftermarket steel bumper and winch?
I didn't do it and my front end is down about an inch from stock.
I have a 2500 crew can with a duramax. It has a 6 inch Fabtech lift on it and I've been very pleased with it. I've had it 10 years and haven't had any problems. Did have to replace shocks at about 80,000 miles which is to be expected. Have had to replace wheel bearings too but that's not out of ordinary. I've got about 145,000 on it and hope to get another 145,000 out of it.
I agree with most above however, do NOT put AT's (all terrain tires) on the vehicle. Choice of tire make an unbelievable difference in traction (mud/snow).
If you truly are worried about getting in and out of hunting lands go with MT's (Mud tires with aggressive grip).
If you are worried about them wearing faster...don't. You already stated you have a daily driver - you will still get 40 plus thousand miles on the MT's. They will out last the life of the vehicle with your intended use.
Further if your other reason is sound (MT's are a little louder on the highway because of the aggressive tread), its only slightly louder. Just turn up the radio. I drove from Illinois to Colorado last year with MT's on my truck never even noticed...btw the truck is my daily driver as well.
If you still have questions I would highly recommend going to an off-road/4WD forum or website. You will get much better technical information for your set up and intended useage.
Lifts are a personal desire kinda thing. Not so much functional improvement. Frankly, there is very little, if any improvement with them Because you gotta go really high in order to make them pay off. And, in most cases, they won't pay off because a few inches of height isn't going to be that much difference in accessing an area. It could possibly hurt you more than it helps. Also, big tires rarely go better in anything if the width to height, to vehicle weight ratio gets out of wack. So, ask yourself this. Are you doing it for function or, are you doing it for some other reason?
I guess a big truck is cool to some people. But aside from looks, with the suspension travel a fendered rig has, you don't gain much of anything in function unless you go so high on the body lift that you clear suspension travel. When you go this route, you just ruined your hunting rig.
To best improve the function of this vehicle, based on your description of what you intend to do with it, would be to locker the rear end, get a good ten ply tire, work the exhaust and put a chip in it. I'm a strong believer in the "improving performance" department. I'd do that before anything else.
My current truck was bought with the exhaust and chip improvement. It has made a tremendous difference in power and fuel mileage. I average right at 20 mpg in an area that other trucks average 14-16. I don't know the horse power increase but, this gas rig eats other pickups for lunch. Walks offs and leaves them at any speed. It is fast and, it is strong. I'm being serious too. Hot rodding a vehicle isn't my cup of tea but, this is seriously improving one. Not putting on a show to say look at me. It's made me a believer. Plus, the savings in fuel prices will pay for it 1000 times over. Look into it. You won't be sorry.
Aside from that, unless you intend to mud run it in the swamps, there is zero functional need for lifting a vehicle. But, installing a locker, good tires, and a power/fuel improvement will get you where you want. God Bless
Mine is a 2008 Ford Expedition I put a 2 inch lift and 34 inch Toyo tires on it. It does not drag the bottom on the rutted roads any longer. If I would have went any higher I would not be able to get into it. Its first life it was a cop car now I use it for a hunting rig and a basketball team hauler with the 3rd row seating it has rubber mattes with no carpet so its easy to hose out
Just got this "02" Z-71 Avalanche last Oct.
Great off road and in the snow with its near even weight distribution.
Plenty of room for hunters up front and protected /lockable storage for equipment in the bed.
This was out scouting for turkey this spring
woodguy, MT tires are great in mud, but they are typically horrible in snow. They simply do not have enough siping or edges on the tread to give you good traction in icy conditions on paved or hard packed surfaces.
I'd just recommend going to your local Walmart parking lot on Friday or Saturday night The redneck kids there with their 4x4's will give you all the info you will need to set that puppy up right.
Surf bow I stand by my comment. MT's are superior in mud and waaaay better than AT in snow. Nothing is good on ice with the exception of studs and chains. I'm talking about unplowed and off the road snow.
Snow tire treads are made to fill and, by doing so they grip the snow you are running on. Mud tires are made so they clean the fill out. Therefore, if they don't grip something they spin easier in snow. Especially a wet snow. So, in most circumstances a mud tire is very lacking in comparison to a snow tire, in snow. There really is no comparison if a snow tire is truly needed. And a good all terrain is a compromise of the two.
Only the you can determine what will suit you best. But, woodguy65 keeps talking like he is planning on going mud bogging instead of hunting. Maybe he has to where he hunts. I don't know. But, before I'd drive a jacked up, roaring mud tire slinging hunting rig 1300 miles to elk hunt, I'd buy a good set of AT tires and tire chains versus listening and feeling the difference. And, road wear isn't even comparable. You'll buy two sets of mudders to every set of AT's.
Not arguing but, I've put 50,000+ miles a year on vehicles for the last 18 years. From light duty to ton models. Of all brands. There has been a set or two of tires bought in that amount of time. My suggestions may not suit you. But, know the whole picture and not just what suits someone elses preferences. God Bless
I use this one to take the guys to their stands at white tail camp
MT's are better for mud but much worse in snow. They also wear faster than AT's. I have air lockers, 35" tires, 4" lift, 4.56 gears on my F350 and there are still plenty of places I will avoid. This combo did just barely get me out of a nasty area while elk hunting several years ago when we had record flooding.
2" leveling max. 235 85 16 will fit the stocker and 255 85 should fit with the lift. I prefer the narrower 85 series over the 75 for mud and snow unless you're hunting in swamps in the south.
After adding the winch one can adjust the ride height by giving the torsion bar bolts a couple turns and then I would have the alignment checked when you get the new tires on there.
As far as AT or MT, I personally go with the MT because I will deal with more mud than anything. Whether it's mud or snow, the more aggressive the tread and the better it cleans the better traction you will have. AT type tread is more closed to reduce noise, provide more surface area for stability/drivability, and more area for siping for ice and packed snow. They do not clean well enough for optimum mud or snow traction.
After you decide on a tire get a pair of chains to fit the size tire you bought and put them on before you get stuck. :)
If any of you lived in real ice and snow country you would have nothing but M-55 toyos on your rigs I have them on ever rig o own except my Mustang that never comes out in the winter here in Montana
They are a hell of a tire Dan, I use to sell those in 235 85 16 for 150 bucks years ago. Ranchers around here swore by them and they are harder on tires than anyone. Toughest damn tire I ever had experience with.
I got 55,000 on my last set just put a new set on at the start of winter. 285-75-16 on my F-350 they cost $1300 for the set not cheep by any means but worth the money in my book
If hunting from an SUV a kiddie pool is your friend.
And I love my Duratracs
A lift will only give you extra ground clearance gained by larger tires. Articulation is more important than clearance. Add slightly taller tires, locking different and trans cooler.
