best broad head to use for bear (Black)
Contributors to this thread:Bears
From: VaHillbillyman
11-Jul-16
This is going to be my First bear hunt I'm going too Luray Va.what broad head would be the best to use, mechanical or Fixed blade. Ive killed a lot of bucks and does with mechanical but don't know about shooting a bear, so please give me some advice
From: VaHillbillyman
11-Jul-16
This is going to be my First bear hunt I'm going too Luray Va.what broad head would be the best to use, mechanical or Fixed blade. Ive killed a lot of bucks and does with mechanical but don't know about shooting a bear, so please give me some advice
From: Stubbleduck
11-Jul-16
Not a huge amount of experience but the three black bears I have taken were all with NAP Spitfire mechanical broadheads. None of the three made 50 yards after being hit. All three arrows were chest cavity pass through shots using 65-70 pound / 29.5 inch draw compound bows. Arrows were all in the 400 =/- grain range and all in the 280 - 300 FPS range.
From: Bou'bound
11-Jul-16
it won't matter. you really can't pick a bad one unless you really work at it. don't over-think this.
From: TSI
11-Jul-16
Big sharp ones and love mechanicals on bear.if shot placement is proper any blade kills and as is the case often poor placement by any head is usually a lost animal.Use whatever you legally want but practice practice practice.You get one shot make it the best one you can.
From: ScottTigert
11-Jul-16
I have killed three black bear. Two with Rage three blade. One with G5 T-3. All three went less than 30 yards after the shot. Shoot behind the shoulder, in the center of the body/hair. Let the air out. They don't go far. Scott
From: Brotsky
11-Jul-16
+1 for bears being easy to kill if they are hit correctly. Put any sharp head in the right spot and you'll have your bear in short order. Hit them bad and it won't matter what you shoot, you'll be going home heart broken.
From: Ungie01201
11-Jul-16
I've killed a pile with NAP Spitfire Maxx... always does the job quick... I don't think you need anything crazy.
From: trkytrack
11-Jul-16
Super sharp that cuts the biggest hole.
From: Windwalker
11-Jul-16
Pay more attention to your shot placement than your broadhead. Just make sure it is sharp. With that being said I prefer Ramcats 100 grain.
From: kota-man
11-Jul-16
I'm not a huge mechanical fan, but LOVE them on bears. I've used Spit Fires, WASP Jak Hammer's and most recently this past spring, Grave Diggers. They all worked fantastic.
From: Mike Ukrainetz
11-Jul-16
I seen about a bzillion bears shot with arrows and modern big mechanicals are the best. Just stay away from the shoulder, even a center punched bear with a big sharp mechanical won't go far. The only exception to this is, If you plan on screwing up and hitting the shoulder blade then I would go toward a tough fixed blade.
I shoot a muzzy fixed blade myself but I don't personally shoot many bears nowadays, just guide to a few of them.
From: Too Many Bows Bob
11-Jul-16
The guide I just went with recommended Rage. No I'm not trying to start a fight.
TMBB
From: APauls
11-Jul-16
Whatever you use for coyotes works on bears. They have to be the easiest big game animal to kill with a bow.
Mike U^^^^ would know nothing about killing bears ;)
From: TSI
11-Jul-16
Everyone says they are easy to kill but ive seen my share of to the contrary.no vitals no bear.too many dont respect the animal and loose sight of the fact placement dictates kill or not as with any game.I can speak from a bit of experience that some weeks they are the hardest animal to kill and thats a fact.No such thing as easiest animal to kill!
From: rattling_junkie
11-Jul-16
I agree TSI, not an easy animal to kill. They are constantly twisting and turning.
From: Rob Nye
11-Jul-16
Ultra sharp and well placed are the keys to success.
From: Ambush
11-Jul-16
I've killed a few dozen with NAP Spitfires and witnessed many more with the same head.
Halfway up and stay away from that leg bone.
From: SBH
11-Jul-16
Amen TSI!! Shot placement is everything and it's a little different on bears then elk/deer. Do your research. I've lost a couple on what I thought were perfect shots, tucked right behind the shoulder. Not so perfect on a bear. Good luck, have fun on your hunt and shoot straight!
From: carcus
11-Jul-16
I use the old rocky mountain snyper 2 blades, they rarely make it out of sight, when I run out of those I will look for a similar BH, shot placement is crucial
From: Fuzzy
12-Jul-16
doesn't seem to matter so long as they're sharp. I don't use mechs, but some do. The heavier bones would worry me with thinner blades.
From: TSI
12-Jul-16
I have never seen a head that will bust through a big bears shoulder!bones should never be a consideration in your choice because hitting big bones is always bad.we talk alot on here of thebelieved ease in killing a bear but very little on the ones that were lost! No head allows forgivness or auto correct for poor placement.alot of novice bear hunters read these threads thinking the right head willl kill em easy and they go out unprepared for the reality of hunting a bear.Be prepared,it a serious investment in timeand money as well as a huge ethical obligation for a hunter.Irs not a perfect science.practice,know your equiptment and understand it hunting not killing plan for the unexpected and practice many shot angles.
From: carcus
12-Jul-16
The biggest advantage to a mech is they are very forgiving to poor form, so if your excited and you torque you bow slightly the mech still hits the spot, can't say that for fixed
From: Fuzzy
14-Jul-16
I wasn't really thinking of busting bone, I can't even do that on deer, more like losign a blade with a shot that glances off bone. I've never really shot thin blades so maybe I worry too much
From: Pope125
14-Jul-16
I have to agree with shot placement , not hard to kill but don't hit one in the vitals you'll find out real quick how tuff they are .
From: Bloodtrail
04-Aug-16
NAP Spitfire/Rage - devastating holes/wound channels!
From: Buffalo1
04-Aug-16
Anything that won't get caught up in hair.
From: Bear Track
05-Aug-16
Bear Track's Link
I could sure make the case for a mechanical (and I can't believe is said that) but this spring we had 2 gut shot bears hit with mechanicals and those big gapping holes I believe help end those bears' lives quickly and were found in short order. I've been on over 1,000 bear blood trails and I'm not so sure either of those bears would have been found that quickly.
In short, at our camp, if it's sharp, it will kill quickly, given proper shot placement.
From: TSI
05-Aug-16
Agree 100% Ron i see the same.gut shot mechanicals 7of 10 we find.Fixed maybe 1 in 10.
From: gblevins525
05-Aug-16
Go to you tube and look up Rage hypodermic bow kill, that speaks volumes. Shot one with a rage didn't go 30 yards.MONSTER holes
From: gblevins525
05-Aug-16
Go to you tube and look up Rage hypodermic bow kill, that speaks volumes. Shot one with a rage didn't go 30 yards.MONSTER holes
From: Brotsky
05-Aug-16
You've got some of the best black bear guides in Canada giving you advice here...I'd listen! Stick with what you're using now if it works for you!
From: Fuzzy
05-Aug-16
Brotsky, I have to agree with you, who're you gonna believe, a guy like me, whjo's only ever flung one arrow, at one bear, or a guy who's recovered hundreds. Go with experience!
From: ECMOUTDOORS
07-Aug-16
Was never a fan of Rage's. Went bear hunting 2 years ago and guide strongly recommended the Hypodermics. I went with what he told me, couldn't believe the hole and trail it left in the bear I shot. I'm headed back again in 30 days am taking Rage back with me, no hesitations.
From: stagetek
07-Aug-16
I've used Bear Razorheads w/insert, and Snuffers. None of the three went over 60 yrds.
From: Backpack Hunter
07-Aug-16
Grim Reaper Razortips have worked well for me.
From: APauls
08-Jun-17
I think a big hole is a big help on bears for blood because of the extra fat they have in relation to most animals can clog the wound. As far as going down easy, that is for a well placed shot. Where an ungulate can go 30-120 yards hit in the vitals, it seems like bears rarely make 40. If you don't hit them in the vitals, well, then you've got a problem. Especially since blood trailing them on moss and generally not bleeding well is a problem.
From: LesWelch
08-Jun-17
Ironwill outfitters, sweet new head on the market.
From: killinstuff
08-Jun-17
Biggest myth out there is bears don't bleed and all that. Bears that don't bleed are bears hit high from tree stand shots. Hit one low or from ground level and they bleed gallons. I shoot a longbow and wood arrows so I like Mangus or tigershark two blades. For the first time compound guy and it's their first time for bear just center punch them with a big mechanical and don't over think it.
From: ELKMAN
11-Jun-17
Rage two blade 2 inch cut.
From: carcus
11-Jun-17
Whats even better is Rage has made some new heads with a better blade angle for better penetration while still maintaining the 2"cut. I've only shot bears with mechs, I wouldn't use a fixed, only disadvantages to fixed! When the outfitters are telling you a mech is the way to go, listen! Save your fixed for elk and moose
From: Mike Ukrainetz
11-Jun-17
I agree with killinstuff on big mechanicals, broadside only, stay away from the shoulder, but not just for beginners, for everyone, except maybe low poundage low kinetic energy bows. And I'm a fixed blade hunter, and guide for everything else.
From: Ace
12-Jun-17
I know much better than to add any advice here that contradicts anything all of the very experienced bear hunters and guides have said, they all know way more than I do. I will however make a few point that beginners may not think about:
Pay CLOSE attention to angle, Broadside is good, quartering away is also good but brings big bones into play for exit wounds. (Quartering to is bad because of those bones). The long hair and dark color of a bear makes determining the exact angle, and location of vitals much more difficult than on other animals like deer. I have seen it a number of times, people thought they were shooting at a broadside bear, but the path of the arrow shows that it was quartering. The location of the nearside front leg is also relevant.
Take your time, don't rush the shot, especially if you are hunting over bait, you usually have much more time than you think.
