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I haven't tuned a wheel bow. Ive shot trad for the last 13 years but I may get a wheel bow for a couple reasons. I shot a compound in the early years but switched. The compound I had was set up by the seller. My question is on arrow length and the importance of it with a compound.
Bow poundage, draw length, cam aggressiveness and tip weight are all important factors.
Refer to various arrow shaft charts for a starting point.
I don't think it's any different than with a stickbow - all that really matters is that the arrow is tuned correctly.
But guys who use sight pins don't have any reason to aim off of their arrows, so shorter has no down-side.
And most compound risers are set up to accommodate some overdraw so that the arrow can be shorter/lighter/faster.
So usually you'll see compounds set up with the arrow just long enough to prevent contact between the broadhead and the rest.
But you knew all that...?
GF, I'd have to disagree with that assessment, at least in my case. Shorter actually can have a downside, one I fought for many years. For years, the guidance was the shaft should extend 1/2"-1" beyond your rest. That caused a problem for me, since I have a short DL to begin with. The shorter the shaft, the stiffer it becomes. Problem was, in order to get my bow/arrow combo tuned, my arrow was much lighter than what I wanted. Certainly, people with a longer DL may very well have their shafts cut so they have just enough room to draw their broadhead, since they may already have all the weight they want.
Once I realized I wasn't bound to that 1/2"-1" standard, life got much better. My arrow now extends probably 4" beyond my rest, which allows me to use a stiffer spined (heavier) shaft. I also use a 50gr brass insert. Combined with a 125gr BH, this extra weight up front allows me to shoot a heavier shaft than I could otherwise. Overdraws are a thing of the past. Back in the day, risers were deflex designed. People put on overdraws so they could shoot a shorter, i.e. lighter, shaft in order to get extra speed. The overwhelming majority of today's compound bows are reflex designed, so they basically have a built-in overdraw.
As Buffalo1 says, many variables will determine which arrow spine will tune best to your bow. Beside the obvious draw length and weight, does your bow have a hard cam or soft cam? Tip weight's also a big factor. More tip weight, including both broadhead and insert, weakens the shaft spine, less will strengthen it.
Lots of things have to be taken into consideration.
Leave enough room for your broad head to clear your riser at full draw.
I know that sounds obvious but I have some arrows which certain broadhead designs clear and other designs don't. Broadheads matter!
I make sure my BH is in front of my fingers at full draw...containment rest or not. This is my minimum length. I learned this in about 1979....I took a buddy to the ER for stitches.
To determine the actual length I use the shaft selector program from Pinwheel Software. They have a 3 day free trail. Just put in your bow and set all the filters (ie hunting etc). Then plug in your shaft and all components. You can then play with spine, insert/tip weight and shaft length. I like it to show just a little stiff but still in the green. It has worked for me on 6-7 dozen bow/arrows.
I cut mine as short as possible. I think shorter arrows fly better and are affected by wind less
Cutting reduces weight so I add a lot of weight up front
@Bullshooter - I follow you and you are making perfect sense... but I would address the issue with additional point weight, rather than a heavier shaft. Both will have the correct dynamic spine at release, but the shorter shaft will behave as "stiffer" upon impact, which will improve penetration.
I tune my wheelie bows the same as my traditional bows. Set center shot and shoot bare shaft trimming as needed till you get it right.
Use the arrow charts. Always round up in all categories. Too stiff is better than too weak when and if you're "on the fence" between two arrow spine weights. Longer arrows are more forgiving of form and tuning flaws. Shorter arrows are more forgiving in cross-winds.
Use these guidelines and you will be fine.
I think too many folks get hung up on the shortest arrow possible to gain a few feet per second. The thing to remember is the longer the arrow the stiffer the spine required. When I visit a pro shop the arrows handed out to try bows out are often full length. They fly pretty well for a starting point. I never had an issue with the arrow being past my riser by an inch.
A lot can depend on the rest you shoot. I shoot a biscuit and I have a 27.5" draw and shoot a 27.5" shaft. This brings the broadhead a tad onto my shelf but it works for me. I shoot a 175 grain broadhead and the insert so 190 up front. I just had a new set of 50-60 limbs put on my bow as I am having my shoulder replaced and needed to go lighter. I am shooting a .400 spine at 60#s right now cut to 27.5"s and they are a bit stiff even with the 190 up front. Experiment a bit to see what works best for you. Scooby
Probably my finger release, but i prefer full length arrows. I like the extra weight, and the longer shafts are more forgiving for me. I don't care about speed. I want the most quiet set up. i can get.
