Carbon arrow insert glue?
Contributors to this thread:Equipment
From: dakotabowhunter
21-Jan-17
What type of glue works best for carbon arrows? Is there a glue which works good and is removable in the future in case a person would want to install a heavier insert for tuning purposes? Or to shorten shafts just a little?
From: x-man
21-Jan-17
Low temp hot-melt when and if used properly will hold inserts well enough, and can be removed.
Superglue will hold until a hard impact breaks the bond. It can be removed by using a drill bit as a slide hammer inside the shaft.
24 hour epoxies seem to hold the best, but are not very removable without risking damage. I have removed them before, but it's not a guarantee that no damage will be done.
From: Cornpone
22-Jan-17
I've made up my arrows for many years and have tried all adhesives. I seldom have a problem with any of them except when shooting/removing from 3D targets...some of them really grip. Tips have come out occasionally with any of the adhesives. Lately I've used the AAE cyanoacrylate which has powdered rubber mixed with it...supposed to take up the shock. I shoot a lot of 3D and haven't lost a tip yet so time will tell.
From: Charlie Rehor
22-Jan-17
I use AAE also but don't ever remove the inserts.
From: PAbowhunter1064
22-Jan-17
I've found the Impact Tough Gorilla glue, in the clear bottle with a blue cap, to work great. I don't really ever find the need to remove my inserts, though. It's a cheaper option to GT Tip Grip that I can pickup at any local hardware store.
From: x-man
23-Jan-17
I pull all my nocks out when installing inserts using hot-melt. Having the field point in the insert creates just enough air pressure inside to want to push the inserts back out when you let go. If you take the nocks out, the air can't compress. A trick I learned many years ago while making target arrows with glue-in Nibb points.
From: x-man
23-Jan-17
Okay, but the guy specifically asked about glues to use so he can remove them if needed. Did you not read the original question?
From: WapitiBob
23-Jan-17
Low temp hot melt will not allow a point to be pulled out of wood when glued in properly, I know from personal experience, twice in the last month. The same is true for rubber deer. I've glued competitors points in on the range after their superior adhesive failed. Do it right, with the right adhesive, and there won't be a problem. I use Stanley Brand S. Because they're low temp, you hold the insert/point with your fingers. If you need pliers it's too hot. Warm the insert, heat the glue.
From: 'Ike' (Phone)
24-Jan-17
5 minute epoxy especially when tuning broadheads...To remove I put in a field point half way and heat that...They come out pretty easy!
From: Matt
24-Jan-17
Newer low temp hot melts don't have the same issues as the ones from 20 years ago. Folks seem to want to want the newest option, but overlook the best.
From: dakotabowhunter
24-Jan-17
Thanks guys that's a lot of options, I have 2 dozen new arrows and the idea of installing the insert permanent and then trying to tune the bow just bothers me. I may try the hot melt idea on a few until I'm sure the length is right and tunes good with broadheads, then may switch to something permanent if there is problems with tips coming out. But if hot melt is working good just leave them and do the rest that way.
From: Hico
30-Dec-18
Easton and Gold Tip-DO NOT USE ANY HOT MELT??
From: Ermine
30-Dec-18
Good ole Hot glue
From: Kevin @ Wisconsin
30-Dec-18
I had the same issue as you. I didn't want to permanently install the inserts Into my fmj arrows before finding the right length and insert weight.
The Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex works really well. I've had a few inserts come partially out with hard hits into targets (only a handful over hundreds of shots). But it was very easy to put the inserts back in.
From: SB
30-Dec-18
Have always used hot melt...on ALL brands of carbon shafts.
From: Matt
30-Dec-18
Hot melt. From my perspective, inserts are a wear part so it is sensible to be able to reverse the bond to replace. The same as I wouldn't weld on brake pads.
From: Spookinelk
31-Dec-18
Walmart bag for tuning and testing. Bohning "insert iron" for locking them down to the shafts.
From: tenpoint
01-Jan-19
ditto on gorilla glue light blue top !!
From: COHOYTHUNTER
01-Jan-19
Bohning Insert Iron
From: PREZ
01-Jan-19
Me too....Gorilla glue with te blue top.
From: Shawn
01-Jan-19
I like the AAE also and you can remove the inserts with a little effort. If bateshafting for lenght just cut from nock end unless you are using weight forward shafts. Shawn
