However I am wondering if it is my feeder that is bad? Everything is new. I have a multi-meter but not a battery tester. I need to narrow this problem down so I can return stuff but right now I am at a loss as to what is wrong!
Bob
These feeders all seem to need the same thing. A good battery that can produce 6 volts AND at no less then 3.5-4 amps. Once they drop below that ability to generate amps, it's game over because it's the amps that are required to overcome the startup inertia to spin the feeder. 6 volts at any amperage will keep it going, but to get it started you need 6 volts at a minimum of 3.5 amps or more if it's below 10 degrees.
Cheap, off the shelf 6 volt batteries like a Rayovac do NOT generate this much amperage. Only the top end Energizer and Duracell batteries will do it, or rechargeables.
My feeders were driving me crazy because they were intermittent. It took me forever to figure out that Amperage was the issue. My battery metre said 100%, well of course but that was a cheap non-rechargeable that was 100% of 6 volts at 1.25 amps I finally found out. Not enough to spin the feeder when it's cold. I finally solved my feeder issues by adding a 6 volt solar panel and a 6 volt 5.0 amp lead acid battery to each one. The solar keeps the battery topped up, even in the winter. I bought one spare battery so if I find a feeder that's running low, I swap out the battery.
To test your batteries. When fully charged, you batter when tested for DC Voltage (DCV) they should read 6.0 to 6.75 volts when fully charged and at room temp. Most lead acid batteries will rapidly lose charge when they go bad, so you'll charge them up and then test them the next day and they'll read 5 volts or below.
A cheap amp meter is good if you can get one. Obviously, you should get a reading somewhere around 5 amps, it may be a little higher or lower. Otherwise, if you buy a $3.99 Rayovac 6 volt battery, that will be good enough to test the feeder. Just keep the battery warm until you're ready to test the feeder. Put the battery in and hit the test button. That will at least confirm if the feeder is working. That's a pretty cheap test.
I strongly suspect you just got a batch of bad batteries, but as you say, it's good to work out exactly what's wrong.
Grouse
Note I checked and only 1 of my batteries makes the green charging light come on with my charger! That one also reads highest amps (2)
I think all 4 batteries are bad! Do you agree?
Everything is new too
Will be interesting to see how much longer this one lasts, but I was surprised how long the cheap on lasted.
PSU, where are you located? And are you sure the feeder goes off every time?
What was driving me CRAZY about my Mountrie feeder was it was intermittent. It was obviously going off sometimes, but not most of the time. Of course, every time I'd be standing there it would go off, but then I'd come back a week later and it would be full of feed and obviously hadn't gone off in a week. The battery meter on the control unit always said 100%, but I think the issue here is that the meter reads only voltage. As long as voltage > 5.5 or so, it reads 100% regardless of amperage production.
I'm in the frozen tundra of MN and what I discovered is the cheap low end batteries have a "drop off point" with producing amps. Above 20 they seemed fine, but as soon as the temp dropped below 20, the battery produces about half an amp. Not enough to overcome the startup inertia of the spinner in most cases. In doing some research, there are 2 completely different ways these batteries are made. The cheap ones have individual cells in them, the expensive Duracell and Energizer ones are actually a single cell. You can just tell by weight that the batteries are made differently.
Botton line is I finally seem to have it fixed my cold startup issue using a 5 amp 6 volt lead acid battery and then a solar panel to keep it topped up.
Just to use the belt + suspenders approach, I added a second battery box bolted to the leg of the feeder and wired a second battery in parallel to the first battery so I have 6 volts at 10 amps now available. That sucker flings corn like there's no tomorrow. The output of the solar charger seems to be enough that the batteries are kept charged all the time.
Grouse
Using moultrie and Remington feeder on assorted containers. All are digital timer models Typically set on two feedings daily am/pm 3-5 seconds depending on location.
Here's what worked for me, not all issues were found to be batteries but they are a problem. 1. As far as batteries went to Duracell 12ah 6 volt. They were roughly $24 ea at Battery plus and will just barely fit inside the feeder housing. https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/SLAA6=12F2?pla=pla&gclid=CK_U5f6u49ECFRi4wAodPQcPUQ
2. Squeeze the spade connectors attached to the motor to insure a snug fit.
3. Replace gator clips with spade connectors for battery connection.
4. Replace inline fuse holder with spade style fuse holder.
5. With Velcro secure digital control to inside wall of feeder so there is limited movement once set.
6. Neatly coil any extra wires and zip tie them in place.
Always psh test button and allow count down while closing door. Goal is to have test preformed after you have door closed to insure everything is still connected and working.
7. If using corn make sure its clean, no cob or trash. This includes the string from the feed bag. They will stop the spinner every time.
8. Do not add supplement (powder form) to feed. Can attract moisture and will clog in bottom of feeder.
That about does it. All of these suggestions were learned from failures and many other ideas were tried. This is what finally got my feeder working .... good luck
