Moultrie Mobile
Limb or cable driven?
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
LINK 13-Feb-17
bigeasygator 13-Feb-17
Matt Palmquist 13-Feb-17
Brotsky 13-Feb-17
ACB 13-Feb-17
x-man 13-Feb-17
Dooner 13-Feb-17
12yards 13-Feb-17
Charlie Rehor 13-Feb-17
smarba 13-Feb-17
caribou77 13-Feb-17
x-man 13-Feb-17
Julius K 13-Feb-17
TD 13-Feb-17
bigeasygator 13-Feb-17
Native Okie 13-Feb-17
Mark Watkins 13-Feb-17
Ermine 13-Feb-17
Tilzbow 14-Feb-17
TD 14-Feb-17
CCOVEY 14-Feb-17
Mad Trapper 14-Feb-17
LINK 14-Feb-17
Backpack Hunter 14-Feb-17
x-man 14-Feb-17
bigeasygator 14-Feb-17
patience2spare 14-Feb-17
JIMBOW 15-Feb-17
Dooner 15-Feb-17
The Yode 15-Feb-17
cambow 15-Feb-17
bow_dude 15-Feb-17
From: LINK
13-Feb-17
Just curious what everyone's using for their fall away rests ?

From: bigeasygator
13-Feb-17
I rely a lot on my bow shop to set things up for me. The last few bows I've had set-up I've used an Axion Pulse and have gone towards limb driven. I think there are pros and cons with each method. To me, the con is that it's a lot of string for the rest mechanism and for the hunting I like to do (mountains, walking, spot and stalk, etc) I worry that it might snag or break. However, the pro to the whole set-up is that the limb driven system on that rest can be replaced with only an allen wrench. No need to press the bow, which pretty much mitigates the only concern I have about damaging the string. Plus you aren't tied into the cable/string system which can cause timing/tuning issues.

13-Feb-17
I have been shooting a Limb Driver ProV for several years now and have no complaints. I was also concerned about snagging the cord on stuff, but it hasn't happened. Set up is very easy compared to one that needs served into the cable.

Matt

From: Brotsky
13-Feb-17
I've used cable driven for years but I'm going to limb driven for some of the reasons already mentioned. If looking to get a new rest or new bow I'd look at limb driven.

From: ACB
13-Feb-17
I have a long draw 32 or 31 and I had problems with cable driven rest hitting my fletching never could get it out . Went to limb driven solved the problem . Limb driver pro V is what I am shooting . QAD is what I could not get to work for me .

From: x-man
13-Feb-17
Limb. I will never use cable-driven again.

From: Dooner
13-Feb-17
x-man X2

From: 12yards
13-Feb-17
I've had QAD cable driven and TT Smackdown Pro limb driven. Of the two, I'd rather have the QAD. Had the TT kind of come apart on me and had to put it back together. Also snagged the cord and it messed it up a bit. It basically pulled the adhesive thingy I had the cord attached to on the limb a bit and the launcher raised up on me.

13-Feb-17
Reminds me of the rubber tube on the peep. An accident waiting to happen. Ripcord for me.

From: smarba
13-Feb-17
The longer cord of a limb driven runs parallel to, and is basically protected by your string and cables. If you're not concerned about snagging your string and cables, why worry about the limb driven cord?!

I've been using Limbdriver Pro V for a handful of years, rock solid and zero issues.

From: caribou77
13-Feb-17
X2 smarba Been using the limb driver pro for years. 0 trouble. If you snag your rest, you are snagging your string and/or cables as well. Plus it is taught compared to the loose string of a cable driven rest.

From: x-man
13-Feb-17
Yes! That old "snag that long cord" argument is unfounded. Anyone who snags the limb-driven cord enough to break it will have already broken the bowstring.

From: Julius K
13-Feb-17
Limb driven trophy taker. I tried a cable driven on my e35, but was having torque problems.

From: TD
13-Feb-17
My experience is the same as Smarba and x-man. Never had any issues with limb driven. None. No rest faster than a limb driven fall away. Or more reliable.

From: bigeasygator
13-Feb-17
I'll just reiterate. I had concerns about the long cable but have yet to snag it. I also know I can fix my limb driven rest in the field if something were to happen to the string. I don't think I'd be so lucky on a cable driven rest.

From: Native Okie
13-Feb-17
Same here. Shot with Jaquamo a couple of weeks and he said the same thing. Never had an issue thus far.

From: Mark Watkins
13-Feb-17
Listen to x-man as he is a wise man who speaks the truth.

Mark

From: Ermine
13-Feb-17
Limb driven Hamskea rest

From: Tilzbow
14-Feb-17
Limb driven Hamskea since 2013 with no issues. Super easy to tune, much easier than the QAD I used for 7 years before and never an issue with the cord.

From: TD
14-Feb-17
Limb driven cord is not slack when carrying, it is under a touch of tension. Not a loose cord flopping around trying to hang up on things when you are carrying, when it slacks at draw is when the rest lifts your arrow by spring tension at draw. The timing almost takes care of itself.

Most cable rests it's the opposite, the cord is a bit slack and when timed right lifts your arrow to shooting position in the last inch or so of draw (putting some tension on the cable as well) and a spring drops it out of the way on the shot, only as fast as the spring can pull it. Adjusting the timing is a bit more complicated. Not to mention if the cord slips a bit on the cable..... it is real hard to tell before the shot that your timing is FUBAR....

Actually the limb driver pro v I'm shooting now is not attached to the limbs, but to to the center of my cable yoke. Works pretty slick really. Long riser, short limbs and large cams on a Bowtech Invasion make attaching the cord to the limb a challenge.

From: CCOVEY
14-Feb-17
Limb driven. Bring some D loop material and replace the cord on the mountain if it gets cut, snagged, or breaks. I also don't use whatever attachment for the limb that they send with the rest, just another thing that could fail or come loose. Every limb driven rest ive shot will tune perfect, tied directly to the limb without any additional attachment device.

From: Mad Trapper
14-Feb-17
Based on my research, the limb driven is better for tuning and accuracy. I have resisted due to the chance of snagging. My bow usually looks like it went through a war after I get back from a hunt. Has anybody had any issues with snagging the cable/cord on a limb driven? I think that I am going to make the switch.

From: LINK
14-Feb-17
I was shooting a cable driven rest and after a few years the burnt tit popped off at full draw. I re did it twice with the same result before putting a new string on the rest. I was thankful I was at home and not elk hunting, four hours from a bow shop. It was a bad rest anyways and I just bought a hamskea hybrid hunter. I was curious how many worried about the long string attached to the limb. It sounds like everyone that hasn't used one is against them.

14-Feb-17
Can't say I have ever had problems with my cable driven rests.

From: x-man
14-Feb-17
Legitimate Advantages:

There are no possible timing issues with limb driven rests as they are not tied to the cable.

They hold the arrow up slightly longer, but drop out of the way faster with zero chance of bounce-back.

If Murphy takes over on a back country hunt and cuts the cord, it can be shot as a fixed rest because when the cord is released the rest stays up. You would simply have to re-sight at hunting camp with the rest in it's fixed, up position. My LimbDriver Pro (original) actually has a spring-steel launcher which tunes quite well in the fixed, up position.

When fastened properly, the cord will not slide on the limb (non-issue).

From: bigeasygator
14-Feb-17
ohiohunter, I guess you could serve the cord to the outside of the string, I just don't have much in the way of serving skills. With my axion pulse, the cord is held in by a set screw on the rest. All I have to do from there is tie a knot with some tension on the string on the bottom limb. I'm comfortable in my knot tying skills. They make some stops that you can stick on the limb to keep the cord from sliding if you're worried about that.

x-man, my rest cannot be shot as a fixed rest as it is full containment and there would be crazy fletching contact. That said, as long as I have a piece of chord, it is almost childproof given how easy it is to rig the chord back up. Again, as long as you have an allen wrench, all you need to know is how to tie a knot.

14-Feb-17
Limb Driver Pro-V: Absolutely love it!!! I cannot imagine how hard you would have to snag the cord to pull it loose or break it!?! My Pro-V has a considerable amount of tension on the cord when at rest. If you were truly concerned about a cord issue, you could carry a second cord and the allen wrench and be back in business in under a minute!

Shot a ripcord and a NAP4000 before that. The Pro-V is FAR easier to set up. Pete

From: JIMBOW
15-Feb-17
I also shoot a limb driven rest (Limbdriver Micro Elite). I hunt for a week in Arizona every year in the most thorny, snaggy, cat claw infested place on earth and have never had a problem with my cord. I also shoot large fixed blade heads and love the tune-ablity of the Limbdriver. And like X-man said you can shoot it without the cord if needed.

From: Dooner
15-Feb-17

Dooner's embedded Photo
Hamskea Hunter cord on lower limb.
Dooner's embedded Photo
Hamskea Hunter cord on lower limb.
Dooner's embedded Photo
Limo driver pro V
Dooner's embedded Photo
Limo driver pro V
I've never had a cord slip off a limb. The blue cord is from a Hamskea Hunter rest on a BowTech Experience. The black cord is from a Pro-V Limb Driver on a BowTech Invasion.

The cord slipping is a non-issue. Every limb driven rest I've set up was tuned the first time installed. I've never had contact Issues with any of these limb driven rests. Listen to what xman says about these rests. He knows what he's talking about.

From: The Yode
15-Feb-17
Had a hunter who had his cord on a limb-driven rest break (think it was an accidental broadhead contact issue). Used a shoe lace as a replacement and continued hunting. Worked so good he took a couple of months to replace it. If the cord is tight and the rest is all the way down, you are in tune. Personally had more trouble with the loose cord of my RipCord than the longer, but tight, cord of my Hamskea with snagging issues. Also had the cable cord slip a little (doesn't take much to screw things up).

Watched several people with cable driven systems draw and saw the deflection of the cable towards the riser. Seemed like a possible timing issue in the making. Why bother when a limb driven system doesn't have that disadvantage?

Only possible disadvantage I can see is that a limb driven system can't be "cocked" and won't stay up on letdown. With my full containment Hamskea, that has never been something I am even slightly concerned with...

From: cambow
15-Feb-17
I agree with X-Man. Both cable and limb drivers are equally accurate in my experience if set up properly, but I have had better consistency, less fletch contact issues, and most importantly as a bowhunter, I can replace the cord etc in the field. I do, however, really like the RipCord and QAD method of holding the arrow up, but it has never really been a necessity for me in the field.

From: bow_dude
15-Feb-17
I have been shooting the Limb Driver (original) on both my bows for several years now. I noticed that my left and right misses all but disappeared when I went to this rest. Prior to making the change to limb driven, I shot most of the popular cable driven. Because of the accuracy difference, I will not be changing rests. As far as a snag... myth or rather an unfounded fear. As pointed out, if you snag the cable, you will also snag the bow string. In 40 years of bow hunting, it has never been a concern. When I shot a recurve, I installed brush guards because weeds would get stuck between the limb and string at times, but I have never had an issue with a compound.

  • Sitka Gear