Mathews Inc.
Paper Tune
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
Timbrhuntr 17-Feb-17
Timbrhuntr 17-Feb-17
Scooby-doo 17-Feb-17
Brotsky 17-Feb-17
Timbrhuntr 17-Feb-17
Brotsky 17-Feb-17
Timbrhuntr 17-Feb-17
x-man 17-Feb-17
Scooby-doo 17-Feb-17
wyobullshooter 17-Feb-17
Bob H in NH 17-Feb-17
Russ Koon 18-Feb-17
midwest 18-Feb-17
Hawkeye 19-Feb-17
Brotsky 19-Feb-17
wyobullshooter 19-Feb-17
Timbrhuntr 19-Feb-17
Dino 19-Feb-17
Bob H in NH 19-Feb-17
Timbrhuntr 19-Feb-17
From: Timbrhuntr
17-Feb-17

Timbrhuntr's embedded Photo
400g at 280 fps
Timbrhuntr's embedded Photo
400g at 280 fps
Timbrhuntr's embedded Photo
465g at 265 fps
Timbrhuntr's embedded Photo
465g at 265 fps
Just getting back to shooting a compound and decided after getting it to group to paper tune. I took some shots and after moving my rest once I am getting this tear from both a 400 g arrow and a 465 g arrow. Should I be happy with this and move on to walk back tuning or ?

From: Timbrhuntr
17-Feb-17
Thanks been a while since I've done this like 7 years ! I was thinking it was good enough so its going from 27 to 59 degrees tomorrow and I am thinking I should try to walk back tune next does this seem right or should I being something else before that. I have onlt shot at 20 yards so far and it was grouping very well at that distance.

From: Scooby-doo
17-Feb-17
Looks good!! How far you from the paper. 12 ft. is about good. Shoot a broadhead at 10 yards and if it hits fine back up and shoot. If you are shooting a couple inch group at 20 yards or shaving vanes off then you most likely will be fine way out there. Scooby

From: Brotsky
17-Feb-17
6 feet from the paper is ideal IMO Scooby. If you get too far away your fletching will stabilize your arrow before it hits the paper.

From: Timbrhuntr
17-Feb-17
Shot at 3 feet, 6 feet and 10 feet thats about how far I can get inside. Once I tweeked the rest the holes were about the same and I figured I was good to go but knew you guys here would know for sure. When I grouped at 20 they were all close and one did cut a vane off another arrow. I haven't shot a broadhead yet just trying to get a good tune with field tips first before I go there. So should I bother with the walk back ?

From: Brotsky
17-Feb-17
I'd move on to broadhead tuning at this point.

From: Timbrhuntr
17-Feb-17
Thanks !

From: x-man
17-Feb-17
Yup, What they said.

From: Scooby-doo
17-Feb-17
Funny the guys who runs my pro shop and has won vegas and many other tournaments tells me never less then 12ft unless you have perfect form which most don't, but he does. Too close as the arrow is still bending pretty good at that close. Scooby

17-Feb-17
I paper tune at 6', then 12', 10yds, finally at 20yds. I figure if I have a bullet hole at those yardages, I'm good to go. I've never won Vegas, but my broadheads fly like a dream.

From: Bob H in NH
17-Feb-17
I don't paper tune any more. I go right to bh tuning.

From: Russ Koon
18-Feb-17
I agree with Bob H above.

Haven't paper tuned in many years. I go right from the initial setup using the "eyeballed" starting points, to BH/FP tuning at 20 yards using a closely mowed patch of hillside to catch the arrows without hurting the shafts or the BH's. As soon as I have the BH's and FP's nailing the same spot, I go to 40 yards and fine tune for getting them to group at the same point of impact.

Sometimes that goal can be attained by simple tuning methods of moving the rest and/or nocking point, sometimes more is needed in fine tuning such as tiller adjustment or yoke tuning.

When that point is reached, I have never been able to improve on the accuracy or reliability with any further tuning. I do usually shoot a few shots in lower light conditions with my lighted nocks in place, just as an assurance that flight is as good as it should be. That has never revealed any problems in a tune that puts the BH and FP points of impact together at 40 yards., but the extra confidence in the tune is comforting.

From: midwest
18-Feb-17
I can't remember the last time I had to tweak much of anything after paper tuning. Just seems quicker to paper tune first then check the BH/FP POI.

From: Hawkeye
19-Feb-17
I still do a three methods(paper, BS, BH) but prefers BS of late as faster and shows more discrepancies.

If I see, for example, a Nock right/impact left BS..that tells me paper would show a right tear and equally so..that my broadheads would be left.

Even when BS are close, paper and BH will be dead on. All methods work though.

From: Brotsky
19-Feb-17
I'm with Hawkeyes, I do all 3. Paper is a starting point, then I do bare shaft, and finally broad head tune. It might be overkill but my BH sure hit with my FP's and it doesn't matter which head goes on my arrow.

19-Feb-17
I do the same as midwest. I've never had a need to do anything other than that. Who knows, maybe I've just been lucky, but I'm ok with that.

From: Timbrhuntr
19-Feb-17
Went out and shot yesterday and the groups were pretty tight with field points. After I shot the last 3 I decided to throw a broadhead on and shot figuring that it would hit no where near the FP's. Well right down the middle. Now gotta get the fletcher back out LOL. Thanks for the help guys. I am loving this I forgot how much I enjoyed just flinging arrows at a target.

From: Dino
19-Feb-17

Dino's embedded Photo
With a tear like this, my 2 blade fixed heads fly consistently
Dino's embedded Photo
With a tear like this, my 2 blade fixed heads fly consistently

From: Bob H in NH
19-Feb-17
Timbr, always shoot the bh before the fp, saves on refletching :-)

From: Timbrhuntr
19-Feb-17
Ha ha so true !! I have never had a BH hit right with the FP first try with my old set up so I am liking this new bow even though its a cheap PSE. Reminded me of shooting for nocks at 3d at least I only sliced off a couple feathers !!

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