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Whisker Biscut tuning question
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
Ironbow 22-Aug-17
Bowfreak 22-Aug-17
APauls 22-Aug-17
Russ Koon 22-Aug-17
x-man 22-Aug-17
Ironbow 22-Aug-17
PECO 22-Aug-17
PECO 22-Aug-17
x-man 22-Aug-17
Ironbow 22-Aug-17
Shawn 22-Aug-17
x-man 23-Aug-17
Dino 23-Aug-17
longbeard 23-Aug-17
Bowfreak 23-Aug-17
Ironbow 23-Aug-17
Shawn 23-Aug-17
Dino 24-Aug-17
From: Ironbow
22-Aug-17
I am working on a friend's bow that is having some trouble. He took it to a local shop that couldn't get it right. It has a WB rest on it, it is what he wants to use. At 15 yds I am getting a nock right with a bare shaft. I fiddled with the rest a bit, but still getting it. Fletched shafts are actually slightly nock left!

Hoyt Thunderhawk, 28" draw, 63#, Easton 5mm .340 arrows. Cams are timed well and up and down seems spot on, just can't get the left/right to come out. Any suggestions?

From: Bowfreak
22-Aug-17
Add a twist to the top right Yoke, remove one from the top left. Keep doing a twist or a half a twist at a time until it clears up. Check timing when complete.

From: APauls
22-Aug-17
I find for whatever reason WB's are often the opposite of the norm. As in, if "standard" tuning dictates moving the rest left, move it right.

From: Russ Koon
22-Aug-17
Love my WB's and have used them for many years and always do my own tuning.

I was frustrated at first in trying to tune them using conventional methods. It would work sometimes, often to a point where I thought it was getting pretty close, then the next small adjustment would begin to show the opposite results.

I finally decided that the full-capture aspect of the rest was causing the strange results when trying to bareshaft tune, which had long been my go-to method.

I switched to tuning by adjusting until my fixed-blade BH's hit with my field points out to 40 yards. Then I checked flight characteristics using lighted nocks and a friend watching the arrows as they left the bow, and found that when the BH and FP impact points were the same out to 40, I could never find any flight abnormalities, so that became my sole method for tuning, and has been for a decade or more.

Tuning is simpler and quicker without the complexities of tearing holes in paper that may or may not have any real effect on the flight of the arrow, and the question I want answered.... "where should my nocking point and rest be located to shoot my BH's most efficiently and consistently?"....is the one answered first.

I find that this method also minimizes the effects of incorrect spine, as the rest position that brings the impact points together may place the arrow outside the true centershot position somewhat, which allows for a stiffer spined arrow than the theoretically ideal one. Making the centershot position of the rest secondary to the one that yields the same impact points with BH and FP equipped arrows puts the emphasis on the desired result instead of on the desired starting point.

From: x-man
22-Aug-17
Does he have the "small" hole in his WB rest? If not, there is going to be too much "rattle around" room. Of course you know this, but make sure the fletchings are all going through the brown bristles and not the black ones or the opening.

From: Ironbow
22-Aug-17
x-man,

It is not the small hole, I was a little concerned by that. There is some slop in there.

The local shop had tuned it to shoot good with field points, but when he put broadheads on everything went wacky. He took it back and it got worse.

Russ, I might try that. I didn't shoot through paper, just worked with the bare shaft. Results have not been encouraging at this point, although I may yoke tune a bit first.

From: PECO
22-Aug-17
Is the hole round, or worn out and elongated? He may just need the brush ring replaced.

From: PECO
22-Aug-17
Is the hole round, or worn out and elongated? He may just need the brush ring replaced.

From: x-man
22-Aug-17
If there is too much slop, the up-fletch does not encounter the same amount of slight resistance going thru the bristles as the hen fletches do. If that up-fletch is not "exactly" plumb, it will sling the arrow left or right ever so slightly.

From: Ironbow
22-Aug-17
I am finding more. There is a lot of slop in the string/nock interface. The nocks fit quite loose. Will probably re-serve the string and tighten that up slightly.

Levi Morgan recommends a tied in nock point under the nock in the d-loop to keep downward pressure on the arrow. That might be beneficial with the slightly sloppy hole. The WB hole is fine, just a little big.

From: Shawn
22-Aug-17
If shooting a 28" arrow he is over spined. I know, I know people say that is garbage but if he is only shooting a 100-125 grain head go to a .400 spine. Sorry but I bet it helps!! Shawn

From: x-man
23-Aug-17
The last thing you want when using a WB rest is a soft spine! Any arrow flex that causes the shaft to push thru the bristles is bad mojo.

From: Dino
23-Aug-17
Take the bisquit off, drive to calm lake, use it as a skipping stone. Then go pick up a good quality drop away rest at a reputable archery shop. Problem solved. :)

From: longbeard
23-Aug-17
Very funny Dino...and I'm guessing you probably have never used a WB. Probably the simplest most reliable rest there is for any hunting situation

From: Bowfreak
23-Aug-17
What is it doing through paper at 6'? I didn't read your OP thoroughly and gave a correction for a paper tear.

From: Ironbow
23-Aug-17
Thanks for all the input. Last night I finished tuning it up and here is what we came up with.

First, I yoke tuned the bow with a bare shaft at 20 yds. Took 3 full turns on the right side and took 2 1/2 out of the left. The bare shaft went from 12" to the right of the fletched shaft and nock right to spot on straight with the fletched shaft.

Then I went to broadheads, a Montec. The BH was flying left 6". Moved the rest to the left 1/32" and they were less than 2" at 30 yds. Even then flight was not always perfect, and I wasn't happy, but my friend was getting excited.

So I grabbed a .400 spine arrow and tried it. Bingo, they were stacking. The .340 arrow was a 5mm Easton shaft and fit sloppy in the WB. The .400 spine shaft I had was slightly larger and fit the WB much better. It flew perfect. I understand what you are saying x-man, but it worked great. I think it had more to do with the fit of the arrow than the spine of the arrow.

The sad part is the local pro shop told him the sloppy fit of the WB wasn't a problem. The 25 yr old "kid" behind the counter has only done this for a year or so, and obviously lacks the expertise of the Bowsite community!

The .340's would probably work fine with the proper WB and maybe a soft nock under the arrow Levi Morgan style to give it some downward pressure. My friend leaves for a MT elk hunt in 2 weeks and is super excited to get his bow shooting well. Thanks for everyone's input.

From: Shawn
23-Aug-17
Some guys just don't get it!! EVER!! Shawn

From: Dino
24-Aug-17
"Very funny Dino...and I'm guessing you probably have never used a WB. Probably the simplest most reliable rest there is for any hunting situation"

I actually did try one. I didn't like it. There are better rests available that provide more consistency and better accuracy than the WB. Glad you got it figured. Happy hunting.

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