Carbon Express Arrows
Form?
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
WRBloodTrail 23-Aug-17
Trophy8 24-Aug-17
WapitiBob 24-Aug-17
Matt 24-Aug-17
Bowfreak 24-Aug-17
Pigsticker 24-Aug-17
Pigsticker 24-Aug-17
Ucsdryder 24-Aug-17
12yards 24-Aug-17
12yards 24-Aug-17
bowhunter55 24-Aug-17
x-man 24-Aug-17
Mark Watkins 24-Aug-17
Trophy8 24-Aug-17
Kurt 24-Aug-17
WRBloodTrail 24-Aug-17
Shawn 24-Aug-17
WapitiBob 24-Aug-17
WRBloodTrail 24-Aug-17
x-man 25-Aug-17
carcus 25-Aug-17
WRBloodTrail 30-Aug-17
From: WRBloodTrail
23-Aug-17
I'm shooting a Hoyt maxis 31. I've developed a problem where after my bow has broke over on the draw back and I'm getting steady, it wants to fall back over. I've replaced string and cables and had the timing adjusted. My question is do you think it's something in my form that is causing it. It started last year and is progressively getting worse. I've recently turned the poundage down and am still having the problem. I'm not new to shooting, as I have been bowhunting for 15 years, but have never had anybody teach correct form. All help and input is appreciated.

From: Trophy8
24-Aug-17
If I'm reading correctly, it sounds like you're not keeping up the pulling motion at anchor. In other words, your not holding anchor under tension....keep pulling with your back muscles at anchor while you work the trigger, don't just hold it. Wouldn't be surprised if the string is creeping forward a bit before the shot, not a good thing as it leads to inconsistent shooting. This is very common when a draw length is to long, not saying yours is but could be. Either way, Yes to form issue.

From: WapitiBob
24-Aug-17
Shorten the draw maybe 1/4" so your hard into the back end. Give each end of the string 3 turns or so.

From: Matt
24-Aug-17
It sounds like you are relaxing at full draw but like the other guys said you need to teach yourself to pull hard into the wall through the shot.

From: Bowfreak
24-Aug-17
A common problem is that your front shoulder will raise and cause you to collapse.

From: Pigsticker
24-Aug-17
I have this problem shooting a Matthews Creed but none of my other bows. The advice above is all sound but remember to squeeze the shoulder blades together at full draw.

From: Pigsticker
24-Aug-17
I have this problem shooting a Matthews Creed but none of my other bows. The advice above is all sound but remember to squeeze the shoulder blades together at full draw.

From: Ucsdryder
24-Aug-17
I had the same issue. Shortened my draw length and poof...never had the issue again

From: 12yards
24-Aug-17
That's why I sold my Hoyt Maxxis 35 and Hoyt Vectrix XL. Valley is very short, especially with the XTR cam on the Maxxis. You absolutely have to develop your technique to be pulling hard into the backwall. If you do you'll shoot those bows great. I finally said why fight this and bought an Elite Synergy. Goodbye problem. And I shoot better too. Soon after that I realized I needed to get another Elite for my backup, so I sold the Vectrix XL and bought a GT500. I think the newer Hoyts from the G3, Z5 and DFX cams have been better (with the exception of the Turbo cams) and would like to try one again because I love Hoyt bows. But for now, my old aching shoulders love these Elites.

From: 12yards
24-Aug-17
BTW, I don't necessarily think shortening your draw length will solve the problem. It might, But I just think it is critical that your DL is set precisely correct. If you are short or long it could be a problem. If your DL is set perfect where you are strongest to keep it back, that should be best.

From: bowhunter55
24-Aug-17
I had the same problem and realized I was relaxing too much while at full draw. Just have to pull harder into the draw. Problem solved.

From: x-man
24-Aug-17
Please tell us what your bow's draw length is, then give us your wingspan. That will either explain or rule out DL issues.

From: Mark Watkins
24-Aug-17
WRB, some great advice given here (that I can add nothing to).. let us know how it turns out.

Mark

From: Trophy8
24-Aug-17
Better to shoot on the short side then long.

From: Kurt
24-Aug-17
The Hoyt 2011 Carbon Element I once had was a difficult bow for me to shoot accurately (arrow ending up where pin was placed), especially under field conditions due to the short valley, shorter length and light overall weight. It found a new home. I'm much happier with a longer bow (35" or so) with a nice valley. Acouple of examples come to mind......my old Mathews Drenalin and present Prime Rival. YMMV

From: WRBloodTrail
24-Aug-17
Xman my DL is 29" and wingspan is 68"

From: Shawn
24-Aug-17
Your creeping. with some bows today and lots of bows of yester year with hatchet cams if ya creeped a bit they want to take off. Todays bows have a very tiny valley and if ya just let up a bit they want to take off. I shot a Mathews ZXT very short bow(28"s axle to axle) and if I creep at all it want to take off. Shawn

From: WapitiBob
24-Aug-17
I'd say you're a tad long without looking at you. I'm 75.6 wingspan and 30.37 draw length with a 5/8 inner loop dim.

From: WRBloodTrail
24-Aug-17
That's me trying to measure it myself on my wingspan. I'm 6'3"

From: x-man
25-Aug-17
You should have someone measure you again. A 68" wingspan equates to a 27" draw length. Your height has very little to do with your wingspan.

From: carcus
25-Aug-17
With some bows you can set the draw stops longer to achieve a massive valley, many do this with bowtechs, I tried it just out of curiosity, it felt ok, gotta set the mod 1/2" shorter than your draw then the draw stop at your correct DL. Find out first if this is safe to do with your bow, some bows may lock up at full draw, not cool

From: WRBloodTrail
30-Aug-17
Well I started pulling harder into the backwall and it's really helped with the falling over problem and my groups have started tightening up a little bit too. Thanks guys

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