Summit Treestands
Solocam Timing? (Drenalin)
Equipment
Contributors to this thread:
Lark Bunting 27-Nov-17
x-man 27-Nov-17
Lark Bunting 27-Nov-17
Arrowhead 27-Nov-17
x-man 27-Nov-17
Lark Bunting 28-Nov-17
x-man 28-Nov-17
ELKMAN 28-Nov-17
Kurt 28-Nov-17
Lark Bunting 28-Nov-17
Lark Bunting 12-Dec-17
Ambush 12-Dec-17
x-man 12-Dec-17
Buck Watcher 12-Dec-17
From: Lark Bunting
27-Nov-17
Hi all, I had my string and cable replaced today on my 2007 Mathews Drenalin. I LOVE doing work myself but I did not have a press so I took it out to have done. I read that the string should pass through the alignment window/hole on the cam, or I can align a straight edge with the small alignment holes and it should be parallel with the string. Mine are neither.

I know to put the bow at max poundage and to check the specs. I am exactly 33" and exactly 7" brace height so those are good.

I bought my strings from 60X and they came with a paper clip on the ends and I made sure (I watched the shop do it) that the ends stayed exactly per the twists from 60X.

Majority of the Youtube videos begin with adding twists to the string and cable but I was reluctant until I asked for more advice. It appears that the string could be shortened to achieve the result I am after since when I pull on the string as if to draw it back the alignment window on the cam rotates toward where it would align with the string.

Any help appreciated as I'd love to know more on how to do all of this. Anything else I should be checking? Any suggestions on adding twists (if that is what needs to happen) without a press? I saw a video of a guy that chocked the cams and swears he does it all the time but most of the comments were advising to NEVER do that.

Thanks for any helpful ideas!

From: x-man
27-Nov-17
If the string is the proper length, we then would adjust the cable to get the timing marks correct, not the string. Once the timing marks are correct, you could then shorten or lengthen your string without affecting the timing, ( even though the marks would no longer line up ). I/we have always adjusted the length of the string to fine-tune draw length, but only after the timing marks are aligned properly by twisting the cable ( which can only be done with the correct length string ).

Clear as mud right? Think of it this way... the cable adjusts the nock travel, and the string adjusts the power stroke. (on a single cam bow)

From: Lark Bunting
27-Nov-17
So.....sell it and buy a Hoyt, got it.

Just kidding.

If I add twists to the cable won't that immediately affect the Axle to Axle measurement, which is dead on at 33"?

From: Arrowhead
27-Nov-17
I would shoot at least 60 arrows through it before I started any tuning. The string needs to settle some. Stretch. Even if it's an old string and the bow has been hanging for a few months, I will always shoot a few arrows though it before making any adjustments. I guess the limbs need to settle?

From: x-man
27-Nov-17
First of all, you are putting way too much stock in the ATA and Brace measurements. Those are approximations from the factory. Once you get your bow tuned where YOUR bow needs to be, then you can write those measurements down for the next time you change strings.

Importance, on a scale of 1 - 10,

Timing Marks - 10

String and Cable length before tuning - 10 (WRT factory specs)

String Length after tuning - 1 (WRT factory specs)

Cable Length after tuning - 8 (WRT factory specs)

Brace Height - 3 (WRT factory specs)

ATA Length - 3 (WRT factory specs)

From: Lark Bunting
28-Nov-17
Okay, so it looks like I should add some twists to the cable and possibly the string in order to get the timing marks correct. I read through this information and am more confused than when I started. Is there a "Get your timing marks correct - for Dummies"?

From: x-man
28-Nov-17
I will PM you my phone number. If you want, you can call me at home this evening and I will talk you through it. I'm not very fast at typing, it will take me a half hour to be specific in type.

From: ELKMAN
28-Nov-17
Shoot a little bit to settle and then twist to get your cam rotation marks into spec. If you need to let in or out for ATA/brace spec. after that do it concurrently with string and cable while keeping cam orientation the on the mark...

From: Kurt
28-Nov-17
Goggle "Nuts and Bolts of Archery" and go to the Solo Cam specific area. Used that as my tuning guide when I was shooting a Drenalin and Creed. Also, get a simple cable press so you can work on your bow. I had no problems using it to change strings/cables, tune yokes, adjust peep sights, etc on the Drenalin. On the Creed it worked as well, but needed the L-bracket limb adaptors due to the split limbs. Good luck!

From: Lark Bunting
28-Nov-17
I have had Nuts and Bolt's page downloaded for a long time and reference it often. I got confused though after having my new 60X string made specifically for my Drenalin but the timing marks are off by quite a bit. I believe I need to add twists to maybe the cable and string but wasn't positive, and don't have a press.

That said, I ordered a Bowmaster and the end brackets to work on other bows. It'll be a few days before it gets here and I can then safely add twists to the string and cable.

x-man, I see a PM in my inbox so I will contact you once I get my Bowmaster and we can chat. Thank you for offering up your time.

In the meantime, I will shoot it daily to get some reps through the new string and won't worry too much about the fact the peep is 90° as well as my D loop. I look forward to having the press here so I can work on my own bow!

Thank you all for the advice!

From: Lark Bunting
12-Dec-17
Update:

I received the Bowmaster press and have been making slight modifications here and there to the twists of the string and cable. After messing around with it for a couple days I totally understood the relationship with what each twist was doing. I have the timing marks "close" but adding any more twists causes them to want to bunch up. I spent the time on the yoke tuning and have it "perfect" at full draw.

My findings: -My draw length is definitely more accurate now -The poundage of my bow is right inline with where it was supposed to be -My back wall is more solid than it's ever been since buying this bow used, and with stretched out string and cables -My arrows are flying much more "true" -I love this Bowmaster -I really enjoy tinkering around with this stuff

I have one arrow I'll strip off the vanes and do some paper tuning but I can already see a difference in the way my arrow is flying, and the penetration of the arrows in my target. (I probably shouldn't admit this but I am amazed I got a full pass through on my bull this year)

I had such a bad amount of Idler lean it was ridiculous! I was so happy to have learned about it and was able to fix it.

Now that I have shot a bunch of arrows I will press it again and try to get the timing marks 100% as I'm guessing the string and cables have relaxed some.

x-man, if I do anything dumb and jack this final stage up too badly I'll give you a call! lol

From: Ambush
12-Dec-17
Understanding why something happens or has to happen is huge part of trouble shooting most problems. You can know what will happen but not know the underlying principles. You are now way ahead of the game.

On my Drenal’n I put everything carefully to factory spec first, then fiddle from there. I like my ATA to be right on, but sometimes a bow (or shooter) shots better with an over or under timed cam. Mine seems to shoot best timed. Yoke tuning really finds that sweet spot and though somewhat tedious with a Bowmaster, well worth the effort.

Happy tuning.

From: x-man
12-Dec-17
Glad to see you getting into this. You will find out that it's not so hard once you "understand" how things work and it looks like you are well on your way to that point.

This is EXACTLY why I post here. It's more fun to watch the lightbulb go off in person, but this is a close second. :)

From: Buck Watcher
12-Dec-17

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