I know to put the bow at max poundage and to check the specs. I am exactly 33" and exactly 7" brace height so those are good.
I bought my strings from 60X and they came with a paper clip on the ends and I made sure (I watched the shop do it) that the ends stayed exactly per the twists from 60X.
Majority of the Youtube videos begin with adding twists to the string and cable but I was reluctant until I asked for more advice. It appears that the string could be shortened to achieve the result I am after since when I pull on the string as if to draw it back the alignment window on the cam rotates toward where it would align with the string.
Any help appreciated as I'd love to know more on how to do all of this. Anything else I should be checking? Any suggestions on adding twists (if that is what needs to happen) without a press? I saw a video of a guy that chocked the cams and swears he does it all the time but most of the comments were advising to NEVER do that.
Thanks for any helpful ideas!
Clear as mud right? Think of it this way... the cable adjusts the nock travel, and the string adjusts the power stroke. (on a single cam bow)
If I add twists to the cable won't that immediately affect the Axle to Axle measurement, which is dead on at 33"?
Importance, on a scale of 1 - 10,
Timing Marks - 10
String and Cable length before tuning - 10 (WRT factory specs)
String Length after tuning - 1 (WRT factory specs)
Cable Length after tuning - 8 (WRT factory specs)
Brace Height - 3 (WRT factory specs)
ATA Length - 3 (WRT factory specs)
That said, I ordered a Bowmaster and the end brackets to work on other bows. It'll be a few days before it gets here and I can then safely add twists to the string and cable.
x-man, I see a PM in my inbox so I will contact you once I get my Bowmaster and we can chat. Thank you for offering up your time.
In the meantime, I will shoot it daily to get some reps through the new string and won't worry too much about the fact the peep is 90° as well as my D loop. I look forward to having the press here so I can work on my own bow!
Thank you all for the advice!
I received the Bowmaster press and have been making slight modifications here and there to the twists of the string and cable. After messing around with it for a couple days I totally understood the relationship with what each twist was doing. I have the timing marks "close" but adding any more twists causes them to want to bunch up. I spent the time on the yoke tuning and have it "perfect" at full draw.
My findings: -My draw length is definitely more accurate now -The poundage of my bow is right inline with where it was supposed to be -My back wall is more solid than it's ever been since buying this bow used, and with stretched out string and cables -My arrows are flying much more "true" -I love this Bowmaster -I really enjoy tinkering around with this stuff
I have one arrow I'll strip off the vanes and do some paper tuning but I can already see a difference in the way my arrow is flying, and the penetration of the arrows in my target. (I probably shouldn't admit this but I am amazed I got a full pass through on my bull this year)
I had such a bad amount of Idler lean it was ridiculous! I was so happy to have learned about it and was able to fix it.
Now that I have shot a bunch of arrows I will press it again and try to get the timing marks 100% as I'm guessing the string and cables have relaxed some.
x-man, if I do anything dumb and jack this final stage up too badly I'll give you a call! lol
On my Drenal’n I put everything carefully to factory spec first, then fiddle from there. I like my ATA to be right on, but sometimes a bow (or shooter) shots better with an over or under timed cam. Mine seems to shoot best timed. Yoke tuning really finds that sweet spot and though somewhat tedious with a Bowmaster, well worth the effort.
This is EXACTLY why I post here. It's more fun to watch the lightbulb go off in person, but this is a close second. :)