Help with sights
Equipment
My best so far
My best so far
I just installed a new sight and I can not lower it enough to use all my pins, can I lower or raise my peep and therefor raise my sight? Or is there another remedy? Thanks guys
Where on your face do you anchor?
Will be following with interest - had the same issue, I adjusted my peep to make it work.
You don't want to move your peep because it will change your anchor point. The issue is your bow isn't shooting your arrows flat enough, you can either increase the draw weight or lighten your arrow weight, or both. I had the same issue when I put my 7 pin IQ on my bow, I draw 60#'s. I had to move my 20 almost to the very top and my 80 to the very bottom of the window. What weight tips are you shooting? 125? Try a 100 and if that doesn't work try finding a lighter grain arrow.
"You don't want to move your peep because it will change your anchor point. The issue is your bow isn't shooting your arrows flat enough, you can either increase the draw weight or lighten your arrow weight, or both. I had the same issue when I put my 7 pin IQ on my bow, I draw 60#'s. I had to move my 20 almost to the very top and my 80 to the very bottom of the window. What weight tips are you shooting? 125? Try a 100 and if that doesn't work try finding a lighter grain arrow."
Wow, this is really bad advise.
It's impossible to answer your question without knowing everything about your setup. Even then, I would want to see your bow in person and watch you shoot.
I anchor at the corner of my mouth and use Gold tip 400 arrows and 100 grain tips.
"You don't want to move your peep because it will change your anchor point. The issue is your bow isn't shooting your arrows flat enough, you can either increase the draw weight or lighten your arrow weight, or both. I had the same issue when I put my 7 pin IQ on my bow, I draw 60#'s. I had to move my 20 almost to the very top and my 80 to the very bottom of the window. What weight tips are you shooting? 125? Try a 100 and if that doesn't work try finding a lighter grain arrow." "Wow, this is really bad advise.
It's impossible to answer your question without knowing everything about your setup. Even then, I would want to see your bow in person and watch you shoot."
Yeah you should fly out to MN so Rob can take care of you, sounds like he knows everything there is to know about everything! Hey Rob I got news for you man there is nothing wrong with my advice and every bit of it is legit. I'm not going to debate what I said with you. I'm speaking from my own experience and put what I know out there which is more than you have contributed. Get off your high horse and try and help the guy out why don't you?!?! Can you give any other advice being you are half the country away from the guy?
"I anchor at the corner of my mouth and use Gold tip 400 arrows and 100 grain tips."
Hey Rob he anchors where he should be are you surprised? I'm not it doesn't look like he is new to the game...
Rick do you know the overall weight of the arrows you are shooting? Grains per inch and total length? One way to fix it would be shooting a lighter arrow. "less grains per inch" It will make your arrow shoot flatter. Can you crank up your bow at all or are you maxed out? Another simple fix is some sights have 2 locations to mount your sight onto your bow and it will raise your sight up some. Take a look at that before flying out to MN.
This is what my window looks like, you can see my pins go from top to the very bottom.
Exhughes2, Is it just the picture or are your pins extremely unevenly spaced? The gap between pins should get progressively larger between pins as the target is further and further away (assuming you are keeping your form - anchor point the exact same).
most of the sights ive had you could turn over the mount to raise or lower the sight housing.
nexus, you took the words right out of my mouth.
"Exhughes2, Is it just the picture or are your pins extremely unevenly spaced? The gap between pins should get progressively larger between pins as the target is further and further away (assuming you are keeping your form - anchor point the exact same)."
It's just the way the bow shoots, I've had the bow and sight for a few years now and it shoots really good. There are bigger drop offs than what I was expecting at first but after shooting it enough it's just the way it is. It's a Bear Venue and IQ sight, The awesome thing about the IQ is you know if you are torquing the bow or if your form isn't the same every time. I'm dead nutz at 80 for the first time after switching to the IQ, I love my setup. I know what you are saying though and that's how it was with my old bow but for some reason this one doest drop the same way.
Step one: Make sure your bow is properly tuned. Do fixed blade heads hit the same point of impact that your practice points do?
Step two: How's your form?
Step three: Does your bow have dual sight mounting locations? Many newer bows do. If so, make sure it is in the bottom set of holes.
Step four: Does your new sight have dual mounting hole locations? If so, you can move it back towards the riser as far as it goes.
Step five: take it to someone who really knows what they are doing and ask their advise. If that is not an option where you live, give us a more detailed description of your equipment. Pictures would help, especially if you can have someone take a picture of you holding your bow at full draw.
Turning your draw weight up could develop injuries or risk under-spined arrows. Buying lighter and faster arrows seems like wasted money.
Exhughes2, A sight can be set up to compensate for all kinds of things we as archers do - torgue, changing anchor point, etc. However, the arrow once it leaves the bow is subject to a couple forces of physics (gravity and drag) that dictates the arrow drops at an increasing rate with distance. Based on your pins, the arrow would have to actually have intervals of less gravity or drag - not possible. This is why watching someone shoot their bow is often required to address why they are having problems getting a sight set up - it is the Indian not the equipment. That being said, if you are dead nuts with your approach at 80 yards, go for it. My pins are very uniformly spaced and I cannot hit snot at 80 yards...
As for the OP, I would like to see his anchor point given he mentioned he anchors at the corner of his mouth. Is that with the release up high above the corner of the mouth or below the jaw line? Big difference in initial trajectory.
3 things to fix your problem:
1. Lower your anchor point and correspondingly raise your peep sight.
2. Move your sight housing closer to your riser.
3. Listen to x-man.
“listen to x-man”
That, in a nutshell, sums it up pretty well.
There's something off with that pin layout......
There is something off with the trolls on this site. Let me guess you shoot the same exact setup I do and you know everything there is to know?!?! How in the world could their be something off? It shoots great out to 80 and you guys are telling me I'm wrong? Just maybe you guys don't know everything you think you know.... Like this is my first bow and I just started shooting! WTF is wrong with you guys?
"There is something off with the trolls on this site. Let me guess you shoot the same exact setup I do and you know everything there is to know?!?! How in the world could their be something off? It shoots great out to 80 and you guys are telling me I'm wrong? Just maybe you guys don't know everything you think you know.... Like this is my first bow and I just started shooting! WTF is wrong with you guys?"
If you shoot great out to 80, then by all means continue as you're doing. However, the rest of us have to live with the Laws of Physics, which is something you've obviously learned to overcome.
What are the yardages on each individual pin in that picture? ?
"There is something off with the trolls on this site." Dude, I'm not trolling you. I could give a F what you do or don't do as far as shooting. I have literally set up and tuned hundreds of bows. It was my career for awhile. I have never saw a pin set-up that would logically shoot like that. Sure maybe if your pins were 10, 15, 25, 40, 50, 70, and 80. If you have some reason for a weird pin layout so be it. You say you shoot to 80 yards. A "normal" person would lay out a 7 pin to shoot 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 80 yards. Incrementally they would be close but stack slightly farther apart per each pin. Physics dictates this, not a troll.
Nobody is trolling you, you just posted an odd picture, and we made comment. Carry on with your paranoia.
Woah. There were several posts as I typed my question about the pin yardages. Either way, I'm glad it shoots good for you. But the other guys do have a point. There is math involved in arrow drop and that math doesn't change. That's how trophy ridge makes that sight that lets you set 2 pins and the rest of the pins will be on. I don't think anyone is trolling you. There are some very experienced guys on here.
As far as the OP, I too am curious what "corner of the mouth" actually means. When I switched from fingers to release. I tried to anchor my release in the corner of my mouth because that's what I was used to. I ran into the same problem you did. Once I changed to a more typical anchor point for a release, everything fell in line.
I think you need to look at your sight bracket as Grubby stated. Most will allow the sight head to come off and flip the bracket over.
mountainman, what “corner of the mouth” means is where the string contacts the face at anchor, not where your release is located at anchor.
"...can I lower or raise my peep and therefor raise my sight?"
Yes, that will in effect cause the sight [housing] to raise. This will allow your top pin to be further up in the sight window allowing more room for a bottom pin.
Pin gap is proportional to how fast your arrows fly. Faster objects decelerate at a faster rate, but with arrows and 25 fps more of speed, it is a non issue.
When talking about fast objects decelerating quickly, it's really referring to things like bullets and supersonic speeds, not arrows.
Someone has a chip on their shoulder...
Moving the sight closer to the riser maybe the answer as the new sight has a longer attachment bracket then my old sight. I'll try moving it, thanks
"mountainman, what “corner of the mouth” means is where the string contacts the face at anchor, not where your release is located at anchor"
WYbull- I was asking specifically what it means to the OP. So really only he could answer.
My mistake. Your comment “I too am a little confused as to what “corner of the mouth” actually means” seemed like you were looking for an answer as well.
No worries either way man. I think everybody is just trying to get a picture of what hes doing so we can try to help him out.
Sometimes sights have different mounting holes on the bracket. Seems like you would have already tried that, but it’s worth a shot just in case.
Old bow on the right, new bow on the left. This shows how much I raised my peep after lowering my anchor point.
Old bow on the right, new bow on the left. This shows how much I raised my peep after lowering my anchor point.
Comparison of old bow on left with low sight housing and new bow on right with high sight housing after lowering anchor and raising peep.
Comparison of old bow on left with low sight housing and new bow on right with high sight housing after lowering anchor and raising peep.
crooked arrow,
For years I shot with a very high anchor point with one of my knuckles pressed against my head behind my ear and one of my feathers in the corner of my mouth as a second reference like a kisser button. I shot very well but my high anchor point caused my sight housing to be very low and the farthest I could set my bottom pin was 60 yards.
A couple years ago I bought a new bow and decided to lower my anchor point so that my knuckle is now below my ear at the back of my jaw and the fletching is now well below the corner of my mouth. I had to raise my peep sight significantly and that allowed me to have my sight housing set much higher. I use a 5-pin slider with pins set 20-60 and I can slide the housing down and shoot to at least 120 yards with the bottom pin without having interference with my arrow/broadhead. I could have never done that with my old setup and anchor point.
Drop the pin and go to the EZV sight, be the best thing you can do for yourself.
Cheesehead Mike's set up is exactly what mine used to be like until I changed it like he did. Best advice on this thread so far.
The only other way is as already been stated to increase arrow speed for a flatter trajectory, but that opens another world of things if you're not ready or able to - except arrow weight, which is certainly doable and not much will be lost.
