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Killing Multiflora Rose With 41% rd-up
Ok I picked up a property last September, it has much Multiflora Rose on it that I'm planning on waging war on.. I have lots of 41% glyphosate.. Being that I can't drive up to most of the bushes I'm going to use a hand sprayer. I can get 2 gallons in it.. I read that 1% or about 1 1/4 oz a gallon is all you need. So I'm going to go 3 oz to the 2 gallons and 1oz of dawn dish soap.
Now I'm planning on doing the spraying over the next month or so when I go for walks..
So here my questions to you that have experience killing m-rose. Is my total mix seem ok (I could go with 2 oz to a gallon)and has anyone ever put clothing dye in the mix so you know which bushes you sprayed already and how long does the dye last on the plants.. Don't want to be spraying them twice.. Also how long after spraying did it take to notice them dyeing off.
I do not have experience regarding the M. Rose. I do use dye in spraying thistle. I find the blue color to stand out the most. Personally, after one day, I do not find it easy to see the dye on the plants.
With good conditions for the plant to absorb the chemicals, I am able to see which plants have been sprayed by the plants reaction to the chemical (leaves curling.
I am a big fan of putting dye in hand sprayers to help determine which plants have been sprayed. I am not so much of a fan of dye when using a 4 wheeler (boomless sprayer or wand) as I seem to get a lot of dye on myself or 4 wheeler. The dye stains on my face, hands and white four wheeler do seem to last...
Forget gly 4 go with super brush killer if I remember it has Dicamba 24d and 24dp it kills it graveyard dead.the same chemicals might be in another brand.Good luck Lewis
I have 15-20 M Rose clumps in my one cattle pasture. I'm going to cut the stems off and then spray the new growth. I don't want the dead throne stems laying around and will haul them off once cut.
I don't think you will be very happy with the effectiveness of gly on MFR unless the bushes are really small. It's almost impossible to cover all the foilage since the bigger bushes are so dense and tough to "get into" because of the thorns. The inner stems you miss will keep the bush alive. Try cutting and hitting resprouts with a 2-4D and triclopyr mix like Crossbow.
BTW, I'm NOT an expert! This is just what I've seen happen.
The super brush killer is all you need scouts honor it works been using it for years we sometimes just mix a small gallon sprayer to take with us in case we run into some undesirables Lewis
Ed my family has been dealing ( cussing ) with multifolra rose since the federal government, in there great wisdom, introduced them to our county for a cheap fencing system. We used 2-4 d and other brush killers in the early years with good results. Especially when spraying a whole pasture. But when glyphosate came along we have migrated to using it solely for the how well it workes , safety of chemical and economics . You will need to mix full rate , which I think is around 3oz per gallon , but check the label. But 2oz per gallon will kill this pest grave yard dead in my experience. Since you have a lot of this product you should not be afraid to use it . And as far as cutting the plant then spraying the new growth it will work , but that is a lot of extra work for nothing for what you are wanting in my experience.
The government introduced this in our area in the 1960’s so we have been dealing with it a long time . And I have no experience with using dye to know what you have sprayed , but in my experience you will soon learn to recognize which plants have been sprayed and which have not quickly because of the plant starting to die .
I use “Crossbow” for roses and blackberries. Good in spring but best in fall.
Why do you want to kill the Multiflora Rose? It is some of the best cover for game animals on the planet. I makes a very secure bedding area and the deer know it.
I've killed tons of it with a 3 oz per gallon ratio of gly in a backpack sprayer. I spray it every spring and summer. I use it as a foliar spray and if the bush is too big to cover I just work my way in a little at a time or I cut my way in. In my experience it will kill the plant dead but new sprouts always seem to show up the next year somewhere around the old plants. Managing this and bush honeysuckle is a life-long job in Midwestern woodlands nowadays unfortunately. It is good habitat but it is also an invasive. I don't want it around. Plus it can get so overgrown that nothing can grow under it. Deer will browse the leaves especially but I would prefer a native substitute for them to browse.
Chemicals listed above will get the job done. After the initial die-off, the new growth potential the following spring is a serious concern. Our approach at the park I used to work for was controlling multiflora rose, autumn olive, and bush honeysuckle by late spring burns. If conditions are right, i.e. good fuel load and dry conditions with mentioned invasive species starting to bud, burn off your desired area. With the fire burning hot enough carrying throughout your area to wilt leaves, suppression can be achieved with little annual expenses. Make certain to prep fire breaks and have suppression tools on hand if need be. Cheap, cost-effective way to manage timbers and target those pests we'd just assume had never been introduced.
My Death Spray is 2/4/4
2 gal water, 4 oz 41% Gly, and 4 oz Crossbow.
I've killed it early in the year with a mix of gly and 24d.......didn't seem to hard to kill at all.
Triclopyr (garlon or Tahoe) will do it. Go buy your chemical from a farm supply store or seed supplier. It'll be juiced up to a higher concentration and cheaper than buying from home depot or farm & fleet or whatever.
Prescribed burning after spraying is very effective.
Cutting and stump treating works well but its more work. The concentration of your mix needs to be 30-50% for stumps but you use a lot less.
Regarding time it takes to notice effects - that is based on outside temperature. The hotter it is 90 plus degree's, the quicker you will notice the changes.
"Managing this and bush honeysuckle is a life-long job in Midwestern woodlands"
True but you forgot Autumn Olive as well. LOL
Well I got out yesterday 5/18/18 and sprayed three hand pump tanks of MRose bushes. My hand pump is only 1 1/2 gallons. So here's the mix and how I mixed it.
1 1/2 gallons of water, then about 1oz of dawn dish soap, I then took a big pant stirrer mixed up the water and soap. I then added 2 oz of blue dye and then 3 oz of 41% gylphosate.
I'm going to see over the next 2 to 3 week what happens. I sprayed 30 plus big bushes and 100's of small ones, some with 5 or 6 stems, some just single stems.
Here is some pic from yesterday. Here's the 41% glyphosate I used. I got it at Tractor Supply.
Here's the dye I used. Should of took the pic before I used it.
The dye really did help me put the spray on the plants. I could really see the coverage of the spray with the dye. . But when I came back with the second tank of spray the spray that was put down with the dye had dried up and I could not see the dye any more. Not happy about that..
Here's a pic of my pump with the stirrer. I just added the dawn dish soap to the water and stirred. I then added the dye and gly and stirred again.
In the above pic actually I believe I had added the dye and the Roundup but I just didn't stir it yet.
I always add dish soap to the water and mix before adding the chemicals like Roundup
As stated above the dye gets on you. Can't imagine trying to do it on a quad with a boom sprayer and not getting it all over the place I mean on the ATV on yourself.
Here's a pic of one of the rose bushes after I sprayed.. pic doesn't show the dye that's on the bush that well but it does help with seeing how uniformed the spray coverage is, that part I like. But like I said above and one other poster, after it drys you can't see it.
Here's a pic of one of the bushes I sprayed on 5/18/18. I figured I could come back and post pic's a week after spraying, then 2 weeks and so on. Till its dead, I hope :).
Here's another bush that I sprayed on 5/18/18. Let see what happens.
Hello to every one. I have been a lurker here for a number of years but didn't feel I had much to contribute the conversations until now. I am a consulting forester going on 20 plus years and have held the companies master applicators pesticide license for at least fifteen years. So you know my qualifications. I have killed 100's of acres of stuff. Glyphosate works by starving a plant. I will skip the fancy explanation. So big plants with well established root systems and are in full photosynthesis mode in spring or early summer are hard to starve to death as apposed to say grass with very little reserve. But when the plants switch over to reproductive mode when setting seed and late summer they are much more susceptible to glyphosate. Every plant is going to differ on when they transition from one growth phase to the other. In the spring when they are in rapid growth mode they are best controlled by an herbicide with triclopyr the active ingredient in Garlon3A (water base)or Garlon XRT(oil base) and one of the ingredients in brush begone and a minor ingredient in roundup with the poison ivy on the label. Roundup comes in many flavors now including roundup for lawns with no glyphosate in it but I digress. Controlling your roses in the spring with the selective Garlon will kill them and other broad leaf plants but leave the grass alive to occupy the site to reduce the ability of new plants to become established. In the spring plants are very susceptible to garlon and you can get away with a 3% mix. By late summer you can bump it up to 5% and still get excellent results. I killed roses out of a 25 acre pasture last September with that mix. The grass is green this spring and the roses are brown. I will see if I can get a picture posted.
This was done with Garlon 3A in September and applied with a motorized mist blower. Basically a leaf blower with a tank to put herbicide in and you release it in the air stream. A pretty effective moderately broad brush method.
Welcome Blue Spot.. Thanks for your input. I got to use one of them leaf blower type sprayers once. They are really nice. The area that I'm trying to kill them in is mostly wooded, along roads and trails. I read that glyphosate will kill m-rose if used in late May and early June. Is that the part you talked about with the reproductive mode? Do you thing that what I did will not work? At this point I only have about an hour of time and a few dollars in glyphosate. One of the reasons I used gyl is I have about 8 gallons of it. Should I wait and see or redo with other? I read someplace about month ago that gly at 1% mix will kill m-rose in late May and early June. again thanks for your input. Ed
I would definitely steer clear of glyphosate products (nonselective) and use Garlon. If you want to "heat up" Garlon add 2,4-d. Make sure to not spray around trees...especially on hot days! Glyphosate will kill grass that it comes in contact while Garlon or Garlon + 2,4-D will allow grass to fill in. The first thing that will likely come in if you kill the rose plus grass is other weeds! Glyphosate will also likely just kill the tops off perennial plants (rose) and it may just resprout if the roots aren't killed. Make sure to read the label that is on the particular container of herbicide you are using.
As for what jims stated about trees.. Most of the Apple trees have m-rose under them. So what's best to kill m-rose under them. I really what to kill what's under then, don't want to hurt the apple. Ed
I what to thank everyone for there input and answer a few questions. I can't burn it, it's to wide spread, I'd have to burn the forest down.
As for why I want to get rid of it. There's lots and some of it is growing right in the middle of some of the old logging roads. Every time I go for a walk I bleed. There a 7 or 8 acre pond and it's starting to grow that you can't walk around it.
I read a lot that 41% gyl will kill mfr at this time of year. There maybe others that work better. But if it doesn't i only got an hour and a few dollars.. The only thing at this point I wish I did different was mixed at a stronger rate. Like 4oz to 1.5 gallons instead of 3. Ed
I think the glyphosate will probably work this time of year. You will just need to make it a bit higher concentration. As I and JIMS mentioned it is not the best tool of choice for a variety of reasons.
I was never one to be a big fan of the metric system until I started mixing chemical. A 2.5 gallon pesticide jug is also 10 liters. To get the desired percent of concentrate (not percent of active ingredient, 41% in your case) just work in units of 100 milli liters.
Working around your apple trees I would invest the energy to cut the rose out from around the tree so you can spray either the stump with concentrate or the resulting sprouts with out touching the foliage of the tree.
The other thing I would do is get rid of that toy sprayer you have and up-grade to a 3 gallon back pack sprayer. Much more comfortable and you can get them for less than $100. and it sounds like you are in a target rich environment. There are a bunch of different brands out there but the one advertised with the "no leak pump" sold at tractor supply with the round up label on it is like $78 bucks and the pump will not leak on you. That sprayer sold with slightly different labels on it are available at all the big box type stores and chain retailers. I have a fleet of those sprayers for a variety of things. Better than cleaning the sprayer and neutralizing chemical every time you change jobs.
Great info on killing MF as I had some of the same questions on getting rid of some patches. Any ideas of where the best place to order or cheaper than Keystone?
Would like to find something smaller than 2.5 gallons as that would last years for me.
TeeTon - BlueSpot is on Spot! def get a backpack sprayer, I've been after my invasive's (plus Japanese knot weed JKW)for about 4 years. I've all but eradicated JKW and working on the MFR (which is a acronym for another word for them)and the Olives.
I went from about 2 25gal tanks twice a year to one 3 gal backpack sprayer twice a year last year. Finally got infront of the invasive curve ( I try to hit two stages of growth that BlueSPot brought up) Also please ask your state/local forester to come out and advise on your plan of action. Having a local expert, almost always free, give you a tactical laydown of your land and plan can save you much $, time and might prevent you from making a mistake that will take years to recover from.
My addition to this thread is where is your PPE? Personal Protective Equipment? Gloves, Mask, long shirts, pants, rubber boots etc... you are dealing with poison and strong doses over a long time at that. Get the PPE and wear it religiously. Most of the poison you are dealing with has a very high toxin content.
All the Best - Stressless
Great thread, I have a bunch of M-rose on my property and have been thinking about waging war on it. Most of the areas that are infested are in 1-3 year old clear cuts. It will be painful to eliminate all but I'm willing to try!
I have had good luck using crossbow to kill large MFR plants. After they are dead I use the bucket on the tractor to rip out and pile/burn the plants to leave an open area. I used straight CB in this application because the area was pasture, and the CB left the grass. I like the idea of GLY -CB tank mix for a kill all. Mares tail and palmer pigweed can die!
As much as I hate what MFR does to my clothes and my body I am surprised that there seems to be such desire to remove it all. Deer love it as a food source by us and it provides them with cover. It seems like where the MFR is the deer are. I am trying to remove it from some lanes and appreciate all of the input. I have cut a bunch of it to provide access trails and do plan on spraying in the next month. Is anyone willing to share their thoughts on the advantages from a hunting point of view in removing it all?
So my dad and brother clear cut about 23 years ago, for 10-12 years it was horrible but deer wouldn't leave our property for the 'big' woods. Now I've got 50' hardwood canopy that I'm thinning and it's coming back and also on the strip mined spoil banks. My solution was to cut a 6' path with a tractor mounted brushhog and mow those paths twice a year. Keeps the MFR off the paths and deer use those trails like highways. I'm biting MFR down with chem warfare around the cabin and still site, (legal if not sold in Ohio). I used gly and 24d Ester to burn Japanese Knotweed to the ground and below.....
Well I got out and checked the mfr I sprayed on 5/18/18 and got some leaf yellowing and curling. Some has more than others have and pretty much all over the bushes. I did up the mix too, on the other bushes I sprayed after the 5/18/18 spraying. I sprayed 2 tanks mid week and 2 tanks this passed Saturday 5/26/18. The new mix is 5 Oz to 1 1/2 gallons with 1 oz of dawn disk soap. I did forget to take a pic of some of the bushes I sprayed on 5/18/18 this pass Saturday. Sorry!
3 oz Gly, 2 oz Crossbow / one gallon water together = " killer cocktail". I use this on the tuff stuff. Might be overkill for MFR
You waste product if you don't follow mixing rates. Plants will "lock" up if over applied.
Don't think you needed the Dawn, your product has surfactant in it ,
Report on the mfr I sprayed on 5/18/18 with a mix of 3oz of 41 % gly, 1oz of dawn dish soap to 1 1/2 gallons water. Some of the bushes show much damage, some not so much.
Now the plants I sprayed only last Saturday with 5oz gly 1 oz dawn to 1 1/2 gallons pretty much show heavy damage in only 1 week, all over the total plant.
Here are 2 pic of the same mfr bush. First pic is from last Saturday before I sprayed it. The bottom pic is from today. The pictures are not from the same angle I'm sorry about that. But you could see the Green Bush and then the damaged Brown yellow bush.
This bush in this pic is kinda in the back in the middle.
Same plant as above but a week later.
Bowsage, I've never heard of lock up. What is that?
I followed blue spot's advise and bought the Garlon 3A. Found it cheaper than Keystone and free shipping from another source. It is deadly as his pictures show. The pic I attached was taken today (Sunday) and applied last Saturday.
I have hit the MFR and another thorny plant that reminds me of like a blackberry. It is a single stemmed plant with a lot more thorns. When I have sprayed that plant it curls the leaves but doesn't show the effects like the MFR does as fast.
Super brush kills it dead ?? Lewis
Chasin wtails, that's a great kill off for only one week.. What mix did you use?
I'm going to give the gly a few more weeks to work and if it's not looking good I will respray with garlon 3a if I can fine it or 2'4 d which I can buy local. Ed
I used Garlon3A or actually Triclopyr 3. Below is a link to Keystone's which I usually order from but I did a search and found it on another site a hair cheaper but free shipping. Sorry I don't have it handy.
I followed what Keystone had listed and used 3 oz per gallon as I was using a backpack sprayer.
2-3 ounces per gallon of water for spot spraying
my experience with multiflora rose has been that roundup / gly alone isn't going to give you a good kill on any but the newer plants. I've had good results hitting them with 2,4D early in the growing season and when they start to "come back" (refoliate) hit them again with roundup. wait a month and come back with the roundup again, concentrate the roundup spray on the center of the larger clumps of canes
that's a good looking defoliation in your pics. The real proof will be if they come back.
MFR is tough
Guys try the super brush it is inexpensive and it works Lewis
I have had good luck with Crossbow. 2oz per gal. Hit it around the end of June, when the MFR is flowering.
Well, I have yet to try spray on any of the MFR. What I do is throw a chain around the base and jerk it out by the roots. It is labor intensive but so far it is working out well for me. It should probably be noted that I have only been working on this for two years.
Thanks for all the input, it's good to understand about the chemical methods.
Blackstick, that was my experience as well. get the big clumps out and spot-spray the little sprouts before they get big.